Thoughts on a switch

Fish4Fun

So long, and Thanks for all the Fish!
Aug 27, 2013
481
Joined
Aug 27, 2013
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481
So in my life I have been playing with electronics and water for a very long time. I thought I had a pretty good grasp on both, but I am a bit perplexed.....I ordered a couple of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pool-Liquid...716?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4176478874

some time ago. I ASS-U-MEd these were simple magnetic reed switches when I ordered them....silly me. The specs are as follows:

Code:
Specification:
Cable length: 30.5cm
Maximum load: 50W
Max switching voltage: 100V DC
Minimum voltage: 250V DC
Maximum switching current: 0.5A
Max load current: 1.0A
Temperature rating: -20°C - +80°C

Obviously something is lost in translation, the "minimum voltage: 250V DC" must be "minimum isolation voltage" or something similar. The switches work just fine @ 5V driving an LED; however they do not work at all if tested with a multimeter, implying they have some minimum voltage/current requirements. They work independent of polarity and appear to have a very low "on impedance".

So, they work just fine, but the inquiring mind wants to know why/how. I ASS-U-ME they are some type of hall effect device, and that the float has a small magnet in it. They are DIRT CHEAP, so the technology//part count is likely quite low. Here's the thing though, I can think of dozens of applications where bi-directional DC switching of 5-100Vdc @ 500mA activated by a magnetic field would be really cool! But I can't think of a way of doing it for < $2 per switch, LOL. So.....how'd they do that?

Fish
 

Fish4Fun

So long, and Thanks for all the Fish!
Aug 27, 2013
481
Joined
Aug 27, 2013
Messages
481
OK, so it turns out I am an idiot (who else knew?) The switch is almost certainly a magnetic relay, and it operates just fine on my multimeter (when said multimeter is NOT configured in "Current Mode"!)

Mystery solved. Sorry for being obtuse.

Fish
 
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