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Everything posted by mik3ca

  1. I also like Audioguru's version better than the original version, because a +ve and -ve pole is much better defined. If one pole is missing, no circuit will function. Its just the same as connecting the -ve end of the battery to the circuit and leaving the +ve end in mid-air.
  2. no, but according to a few articles that I read about it, it requires more effort than using the transparency method mentioned here. Also, Press-n-peel is not available in any local electronic store. If I understand you correctly, then this method is ridiculous. If the solder side is NOT supposed to touch the component side on the circuit board, then why would I print the solder and the component side at the same time on the same side of the sheet? why? I'm lost. The ONLY problem I have is that I'm not able to transfer the image from the computer to the circuit board successfully. Once I get a super-sharp image on the best paper, everything else is then OK. The smallest spacing between any of my two tracks is 100um. Is that less than 7mil? The smallest track width of any of my tracks is 300um.
  3. I need to learn from you. about 5 years. My printer uses a parallel port. It doesn't support USB. I don't think my printer qualifies as an "old inkjet" if sometimes the transparency works. The major problem I have with using a transparency is that the second copy of the same image does not align properly with the first copy, and the result is a shifted image, making the design useless. I have to pass the transparency through twice in order to even attempt a sharp image. I prefer to spend less than $50. I am looking for better media. maybe I need to use the darkest colour. In that case, my transparencies are junk. What brand are your transparencies? I used Grand and Toy ones. I tried a super-dark setting on tracing paper, and the ink almost made the tracing paper wet. LOL So now I know that my transparencies are garbage.
  4. Until now, I was using transparencies as the media to put my PCB artwork on in order to complete the photofabrication process. The PCB works excellent with a transparency, BUT, in order for this to happen, the artwork must be excellent. In most cases, it is not. When I pass the transparency (designed for inkjet printers) into an inkjet printer, it prints fine, but under bright light, I see random holes in my design (non-printable spots). For this reason, I need to pass the same transparency through the printer twice. The main problem I have with the second pass is that the two copies of the same design do not print one of top of the other. When this is successful (rarely), the image is darkened and no light can pass through it at all. My printer settings won't help because I already set it to the darkest setting. Now I am trying tracing paper. The price is excellent for each sheet, but the only problem I have with it is that it takes alot longer to remove the unwanted photoresist, and alot longer to expose the design and the board to light. With a transparency, I can expose a board and remove unwanted photoresist in an hour. I haven't changed the ratio of developer to water during both cases. I am wondering if there is better media to use to print the design on. I don't want to spend alot of money on it, and I want the media to work with an inkjet printer as well. any suggestions?
  5. You know, transistors can smoke alot easier than that. :o Just be an idiot when connecting them. In fact, if you connect the base of the 2N3904 to the positive of a high DC voltage source and the emitter to the negative of the same source, I can guarantee that it will malfunction. In fact, I can guarantee that some smoke will appear. and why will they malfunction? because if we ignored the internal battery resistance, the current being supplied to the transistor will be infinity, and I cannot see any transistor that can handle infinite current like that.
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