Jump to content
Electronics-Lab.com Community

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Yesterday
  2. I think that my excellent immunity saved me from covid, which I regularly try to strengthen in various preventive ways. For example, I find nutritional supplements like delta 8 thc products to be great for boosting immunity. I noticed this because I haven't even had a cold lately. I think that strengthening the immune system is more effective than making vaccines.
  3. Last week
  4. Hi everyone! One question: How do I proof the reliability or validity of the automatic calibration I do with the analytical balance? I never questioned it, but now I am being told that the only calibration is the one done by the certified metrologist every six months because he presents the whole set of statistical data and everything. Apparently I can only do verifications.... Any advice? Thanks! thanks in advance for any help
  5. One voltage step is typically more efficient than additional steps, i.e., use one converter for each desired output stepping down once form the source voltage, 14-12, 14-9 and 14-5. Worth noting that your 4S LFP won't be at 14V for very long. You'll rapidly drop into the low to mid 13s under load. 2-3) don't know. 4) No, but % efficiency is more related to the power being converted. Very low power tends to be very inefficient. Moderate power tends to be efficient (92% "max"), max power tends to be a little less efficient. "Power" is relative to rated power, i.e., 0.5W on a 50W unit would be very inefficient, but 0.5W on 1W unit would be very efficient. 5) I suspect they may drift slightly with temperature. I'd put a small LED voltmeter on each output for fun.
  6. Hi Harry, Problem fixed. The usb to serial device I received had a switch which wasn't on the device shown in the project. Also had a dtr pin not on the project. This meant data received. I connected it the same as the rts pin in the project with the capacitor connected to reset pin on MCU. No problem with this. The problem was the switch apparently as this was set to 3.3v. When I connected to 5v and used uno as the program, the download worked. Now will be able to use jaycars zz8727 in many projects. Thanks for your interest.
  7. Hi Harry, I have already looked into all those references. I think I must have the wrong port. I have seen one reference where burning the bootloader you use a com 18 port. I don't have to burn a bootloader as the atmega 328p already has a uno bootloader preinstalled.When you pick the programmer you always seem to get a com port that goes with it. Perhaps I should be looking for the programmer with a com 18 port? I have also seen a reference where you take out the MCU from the uno board and replace it with the MCU you want to program. The idea of this is that then you can use the USB to serial converter on the uno board. But in the project from electronics lab you have a converter so you don't have to do that. And another problem is in removing MCUs with so many pins as it is so easy to bend the pins. Please let the author of the project give more details. He makes no mention of the program to use.
  8. Multi-turn pots makes it slow to make adjustments. As Vellerman did not use them perhaps you could replace the pots with good ones like Allen-Bradley pots. Beware of the various tapers that pots have. Check Ebay for good prices on Allen-Bradley pots from US suppliers.
  9. Are you using the information from Jaycar site? There is lot of information on their web site in Specifications and Articles. https://www.jaycar.com.au/atmega328p-mcu-ic-with-arduino-uno-bootloader-and-16mhz-crystal/p/ZZ8727 The manual is here: https://www.jaycar.com.au/medias/sys_master/images/images/9794372567070/ZZ8727-manualMain.pdf
  10. i acquired a non-working ps 613u power supply two 2200uf caps had exploded i replaced them and it appears to be working my complaint is the voltage and current pots are very sensitive it's near impossible to adjust them with any precision i'm thinking to replace them with multi-turn pots is this a good idea or a waste of time https://www.velleman.eu/downloads/2/ps613a502.pdf
  11. Hi, Can't get this project to work. Not uploading. I am using atmega328p mcu ic with arduino uno bootloader from jaycar. cat zz8727. Using uno com3. What is the programmer? Tried avr isp, avrisp mkll, arduino isp, arduino as isp. None of these work to upload my program. Can anyone help?
  12. Earlier
  13. inductance Inductors are energy storage components of power modules, and are mostly used in power filter circuits, LC oscillating circuits, medium and low frequency filter circuits, etc., and their application frequency range rarely exceeds 50MHz. magnetic beads The material of the magnetic bead is iron-magnesium or iron-nickel alloy. These materials have high resistivity and magnetic permeability. Under high frequency and high impedance, the capacitance value between the inner coils of the inductor will be the smallest. Magnetic beads are usually only suitable for high-frequency circuits, such as some RF circuits, PLLs, oscillator circuits, circuits containing ultra-high frequency memory, etc., all need to add magnetic beads to the input part of the power module. In effect, ferrite beads are high frequency attenuators for RF energy. Essentially, the bead is a "dissipative device" that converts high frequency energy into heat. Therefore, in performance, it can only be interpreted as a resistance, not an inductance. Zero Ohm Resistance The zero-ohm resistor has no function in the circuit, it is only on the PCB for debugging convenience or compatible design. When the parameters of the matching circuit are uncertain, replace it with 0ohm. When actually debugging, determine the parameters, and then replace them with components of specific values. When you want to measure the current consumption of a certain part of the circuit, you can remove the 0ohm resistor and connect an ammeter, which is convenient for measuring the current consumption. Zero-ohm resistors can be used as jumpers, and act as inductors or capacitors under high-frequency signals; used as inductors, mainly to solve EMC problems; in addition, they also have the function of fuses.
  14. Nowadays home automation is a trending topic among electronic enthusiasts and even the mass population. People are busy with their life challenges, so an electronic device should take care of the home instead! The majority of such devices need internet or Wi-Fi for connectivity or they don’t offer a user-friendly GUI, but I decided to design a standalone wireless monitoring/controlling unit that can be adjusted using a graphical and touch-controlled LCD display. The device consists of a panelboard and a mainboard that communicate using 315MHz (or 433MHz) ASK transceivers. The panel side is equipped with a high-quality 4.3” capacitive-touch Nextion Display. The user can monitor the live temperature values and define the action threshold (to activate/deactivate the heater or cooler), humidity (to activate/deactivate the humidifier or dehumidifier), and ambient light (to turn ON/OFF the lights). The mainboard is equipped with 4 Relays to activate/deactivate the aforementioned loads. To design the schematic and PCB, I used Altium Designer 23. The fast component search engine (octopart) allowed me to quickly consider components’ information and also generate the BOM. To get high-quality fabricated boards, I sent the Gerber files to PCBWay. I used the Arduino IDE to write the MCU code, so it is pretty easy to follow and understand. Designing a GUI using the Nextion tools was a pleasant experience that I will certainly follow for similar projects in the future. So let’s get started 🙂 Specifications Connectivity: Wireless ASK, 315MHz (or 433MHz) Parameters: Temperature, Humidity, Ambient Light Wireless Coverage: 100 to 200m (with Antennas) Display: 4.3” Graphical, Capacitive-Touch Input Voltage: 7.5 to 9V-DC (power adaptor connector) References article: https://www.pcbway.com/blog/technology/Wireless_Home_Automation_Control_and_Monitoring_Using_a_Nextion_HMI_Display_24d9be1d.html [1]: L7805: https://octopart.com/l7805cp-stmicroelectronics-526753?r=sp [2]: SMBJ5CA: https://octopart.com/rnd+smbj5ca-rnd+components-103950670?r=sp [3]: 78L05: https://octopart.com/ua78l05cpk-texas+instruments-525289?r=sp [4]: ATMega328: https://octopart.com/atmega328pb-anr-microchip-77760227?r=sp [5]: Si2302: https://octopart.com/si2302cds-t1-e3-vishay-44452855?r=sp [6]: LM1-5D: https://octopart.com/lm1-5d-rayex-53719411?r=sp [7]: Altium Designer: https://www.altium.com/yt/myvanitar [8]: Nextion Display: https://bit.ly/3dY30gw
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...