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  2. Hello guys. We are working on a project and looking for someone who can draw/make us a circuit for this particular scenario. I like to know if it's even possible, if so send me a quote please. If it is not, i like to hear your solution. Can you build a circuit with reverse polarity protection on each cel in Series parallel connection using 18650 cells (5S3P ) ? Thank you in advance.
  3. Power Pi is an intelligent and cost effective uninterruptible power supply for a Raspberry Pi that can provide more than an hour of backup power and safely shutdown the Pi when battery is drained. It protects the Pi from power outages and brownouts. This UPS can power a Raspberry Pi via the 40 pin GPIO header. It can also power any other device requiring a 5V up-to 3A power supply through its screw terminal output or the USB A port. Power Pi can be powered using a wide range of input voltage (3.9V to 14V) and can provide 5V 3A continuous output. Pi monitors the status of the UPS through I2C. You can get your hands on a PowerPi by backing our project in Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tjohn327/power-pi-a-smart-ups-for-the-raspberry-pi
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  6. One key advantage of using WiFi capable development boards, such as the Realtek RTL8195 Ameba-1, is the ability to upload new code wirelessly. This is commonly know as Over-The-Air (OTA) functionality. Besides reducing cable clutter while in the development phase, this also allows for updating of code after the development board is deployed in a project, without the need to open up the project enclosure to connect a cable. The Arduino library for Realtek's Ameba development boards also include support for OTA, with two different methods of uploading the new code. The first method is using mDNS and the Arduino IDE, which is easier to use when only updating a few boards. The guide and sample code can be found at https://www.amebaiot.com/en/ameba-arduino-ota/. The second method is using a web server, which is more suitable for updating multiple deployed boards. The guide and sample code can be found at https://www.amebaiot.com/en/cloud-ota/. Thanks for reading.
  7. What type? Voltage Amplifiers: Power Amplifiers: Class A, B, AB, & C Audio Frequency Amplifiers (A.F. Amplifiers): Intermediate Frequency Amplifiers (I.F. Amplifiers): Radio Frequency Amplifiers (R.F. Amplifiers): Direct Coupled Amplifiers (DC Amplifiers): Ultrasonic Amplifiers: Wideband Amplifiers: Video Amplifiers: Buffer Amplifiers: Operational Amplifiers:
  8. Is this what you are looking for? FQB60N03L.pdf
  9. I need help to develop mosfet based amplifier
  10. hi Has someone the new datasheet from the smd mosfet FQB60N03L?
  11. Thank you. The link was interesting (although I had to do research to understand the table). I have ordered conductive adhesive and copper tape. We shall see.
  12. If you could make a slight indentation or groove at the wires with a Dremel like power tool perhaps you could fill it with conductive epoxy? Silver based epoxy is best but expensive. For insight into conductive epoxies see: https://www.permabond.com/2016/07/26/electrically-conductive-adhesives/
  13. Made a table lamp using string lights embedded in epoxy resin connected two pieces of cedar. I allowed the string lights to get to close to the edge when I poured the epoxy resin. Thus when I sanded the sides, some of the wires were broken. For example there are bare wires protruding. This is a very involved project that I want to salvage. Could I solder the exposed wires on the outside of the epoxy and regain the continuity? Another option is to try to remove the epoxy around the wires, but I do not think that would be possible because I bent the wiring into each crevice. It resembles a spiderweb in disarray. Any suggestions other then throw it away and start anew?
  14. It is also possible to use the WiFi capability of the Ameba development boards to interact with your projects through a local hosted web page. Following the example guide at https://www.amebaiot.com/en/ameba-arduino-ameba-web-server/, the code configures Ameba to connect to a WiFi access point, then sets up a simple webpage server running on Ameba. As seen in the image, the webpage provides 2 clickable links that is monitored by the code, which in turn switches the state of a LED pin on and off respectively. Source code for the example can be found at AmebaIoT's GitHub repository. Thanks for reading.
  15. There are dc electronic dummy loads reviewed on youtube.com if that is helpful. They run 200v, 20A, and 180watts. For example see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bx74sNFQvwc
  16. Earlier
  17. The project demonstrates how an IoT device (Ameba RTL8195) is applied in real-life scenarios. If you have watched previous demo videos, you should have no problem understanding how an LCD display, a DHT Temperature Humidity sensor and our Ameba RTL8195. It can be put together to form a fully functional smart weather station. Simply follow the instructions in our examples as follows to DIY your own weather station, 1. LCD 24H Clock https://www.electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/47704-realtek-ameba-rtl8195-lcd-24h-clock/ 2. MQTT https://www.electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/47715-realtek-ameba-rtl8195-mqtt-demo/ 3. DHT+MQTT https://www.electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/47735-realtek-ameba-rtl8195-iot-system-with-dht-mqtt/ The key to integrate these 3 examples successfully is to make sure that you have set up your MQTT server correctly and note that here we are using a different set of MQTT topics, namely “dht_data” and “dht_status”. Also, when connect DHT sensor, D13 pin is used as data input pin. GitHub page https://github.com/Realtek-AmebaApp/Ameba_Examples/tree/master/RTL8195AM/004_WEATHER_STATION Official pages https://www.amebaiot.com.cn/en/ https://www.amebaiot.com/en/ Facebook pages https://www.facebook.com/groups/AmebaIoT/ BiliBili channel https://space.bilibili.com/45777743
  18. Do you want to always keep track with the time of place of your interest without having to google it? Then this project is what you are looking for! This LCD Real-Time Network Clock make use of Network Time Protocol (NTP) together with a WiFi-enabled IOT microcontroller--Realtek Ameba 1 (RTL8195AM/ RTL8710AF) to create the product that you need. All you need to do is to let the microcontroller know which area's time that you would like to see and key in your WiFi SSID and password and that's it ! No matter how many time the power is off, or you have moved, as soon as it's powered back on and connected to the network, it will tell you the rigth time instantaneously! And of course, if you are arduino-savvy, you can program this product to read out the time or even control the lightings in your room accroding to the time bocause the soc used in the microcontroller is so powerful that it's able to connect more than dozens of devices and run multiple tasks simultaneously. For DIY upgrading this project, you may refer to www.amebaiot.com for more information.
  19. An experimental blind spot monitoring (BSM) for an automobile. One can attach the sonic sensor on the rear section of the automobile. I mounted mine on the flap door that covers the gasoline cap. I used a length of good duct tape that wrap around the inside of the flap door also. I ran a length of 4 wire telephone cable from the sensor through the backdoor gap into the backseat. Then a length of 2 conductor wire from the Arduino Uno to the dash for a white LED. The LED has an 68 ohm resistor in series with it. The LED and resistor lives in the plastic tube For the Arduino Unio one can control the LED blinking without using the Delay() by: int iLEDstate = LOW; // used to set the LED state const long lInterval = 1000; // interval at which to blink (milliseconds) unsigned long lPreviousMillis = 0; // will store last time LED was updated int iDashLED = 10; // LED on/off pin pinMode(iDashLED, OUTPUT); //only distances more than 3 ft and less than 12 ft if(lInches > 36 && lInches < 144 ) { Dash_LED_Blink(); //blink the LED } else if (iLEDstate == HIGH) { iLEDstate == LOW; digitalWrite(iDashLED, iLEDstate); //make sure LED is off } void Dash_LED_Blink() { // check to see if it's time to blink the LED unsigned long lCurrentMillis = millis(); if (lCurrentMillis - lPreviousMillis >= lInterval) { // save the last time the LED blinked lPreviousMillis = lCurrentMillis; // if the LED is off turn it on and vice-versa if (iLEDstate == LOW) { iLEDstate = HIGH; } else { iLEDstate = LOW; } // set the LED with the iLEDstate digitalWrite(iDashLED, iLEDstate); } }
  20. Hi, Planning to make an electronic load for testing batteries, 12 V to 180 V discharging at 20 amps. Which will be a better option, linear or pulsed ? I really will be obliged if a circuit with suitable components can be suggested too. Regards VSN
  21. Industrial Android Tablet Uses in the Construction Industry

    Construction industry is a broad field that encompasses many sectors where the industrial Android tablet is used. https://bit.ly/2Q40x4a

  22. Realtek's AmebaIoT ecosystem also has the low-cost Ameba-2 development board using the RTL8710 soc. This board is also a WiFi capable, Arduino compatible IoT board designed for project integration. The RTL8710 soc is tightly integrated on a small form-factor pcb module together with a USB to UART converter and a RGB led. The module can also be plugged into an expansion development board, which breaks out all the pins into Arduino compatible headers. Combining the module with the expansion board allows for the use of arduino shields, speeding up project development and debugging. After the development is completed, the module's small size makes it easy to integrate it into projects that need to fit tightly into enclosures. The features are as follows: WiFi SPI I2C JTAG debugging PWM Examples, sample code, user manuals, HDKs and SDKs can be found at AmebaIoT.com. Thanks for reading.
  23. MQTT is a machine-to-machine (M2M)/"Internet of Things" (IOT) connectivity protocol. It was designed as an extremely lightweight publish/subscribe messaging transport. With an Arduino-compatible wireless soc, e.g. Realtek Ameba1 (RTL8195/RTL8710) dev. Board, we can create a MQTT client that sends our sensor data to the cloud or any other MQTT clients. The source code is available on github at, https://github.com/ambiot/amb1_arduino/blob/master/Arduino_package/hardware/libraries/MQTTClient/examples/mqtt_basic/mqtt_basic.ino The things that need to take note of, · The "mqttServer" refers to the MQTT-Broker, we use the MQTT sandbox "test.mosquitto.org", it is provided by IBM eclipse for developers to test MQTT. · "clientId" is an identifier for MQTT-Broker to identify the connected device. · "publishTopic" is the topic of the published message, we use "outTopic" in the example. The devices subscribe to "outTopic" will receive the message. · "publishPayload" is the content to be published. · "subscribeTopic" is to tell MQTT-broker which topic we want to subscribe to. Here we can use a chrome plugin "MQTTLens" to be a second MQTT client. You can find it in Chrome Web Store at, https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/mq-tt-lens-the-best/cgmogjdjpnemdlijokkdomfapcodiohh?utm_source=chrome-ntp-icon After setting up a “connection” and key in the same topics we used on Ameba, we should be able to see a “Hello World” message printed on the MQTT message console.
  24. Temperature and humidity are 2 of the most important factors affecting people’s comfort level in an enclosed space. The DHT humidity and temperature sensor can read the ambient temperature and humidity every 2-3 seconds, and then pass the data to Ameba who will forward them to the server using MQTT protocol. Whoever “subscribing” to the right topic gets the data almost instantaneously. Users can then adjust the aircon mode or temperature according to the readings received. An android phone was used as an MQTT client and the Ameba RTL8195 Dev. Board acted as another MQTT client communicating with the android phone. Both clients have to connect to the same MQTT server before proceeding to the next step. The DHT sensor updates its data every 10 seconds to stay as accurate as possible. Once sensor data is received, Ameba then “publishes” the data to the MQTT server where all clients “subscribing” to the right topic gets the data displayed on the console. GitHub page https://github.com/Realtek-AmebaApp/Ameba_Examples/tree/master/RTL8195AM/003_DHT_MQTT Official pages https://www.amebaiot.com.cn/en/ https://www.amebaiot.com/en/ Facebook pages https://www.facebook.com/groups/AmebaIoT/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/AmebaIoTWW/ BiliBili channel https://space.bilibili.com/45777743
  25. In the photography is the "Ultrasonic HC-SR04 distance measuring transducer sensor". "HC-SR04 consists of ultrasonic transmitter, receiver, and control circuit. When triggered it sends out a series of 40KHz ultrasonic pulses and receives echo from an object. Power supply: 5V DC; quiescent current: less than 2mA; effectual angle: less than 15°; distance: 2cm - 500cm." The sensor is 1.75 inches/ 4.45 cm by 0.75 inches/ 1.9 cm. The IC on the bottom left is an LM324 quad op amp. The two on the right are not marked. // The sensor is triggered by a HIGH pulse of 10 or more microseconds. Give a short LOW pulse beforehand to ensure a clean HIGH pulse: digitalWrite(iTrigPin, LOW); //pin 12 Out delayMicroseconds(5); digitalWrite(iTrigPin, HIGH); delayMicroseconds(12); digitalWrite(iTrigPin, LOW); // Read the signal from the sensor: a HIGH pulse whose duration is the time (in microseconds) from the sending of the ping to the reception of its echo off of an object. pinMode(iEchoPin, INPUT); //pin 13 In lDuration = pulseIn(iEchoPin, HIGH); The photography shows the trigger pulse in blue and the signal from the sensor in yellow bracketed by the white cursors. In the lower right is the width of the pulse: 24.4 ms from a object at 16 inches/ 40.6 cm from the sensor. // Convert the time into a distance - long way for clarity lCM = (lDuration/2) / 29.1; // Divide by 29.1 or multiply by 0.0343 lInches = (lDuration/2) / 74; // Divide by 74 or multiply by 0.0135 So for 2440 us/2 = 1220/74 = 16.48 inches or 1220/29.1 = 41.9 cm
  26. HarryA

    LED Voltage

    White LEDs are typically 3.6 volts and 20ma each. So for the 6 LEDs you would need in the order of 21.6 volts and 20ma. You could try two 9 volt batteries as a test. You can connect two batteries head to head with the + to - connectors. For insight on testing LED strips with batteries see; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pK6o2DMLWQ
  27. Hello All, I would like to build this project Please advice me which schematic should i use? Any one has a final pcb diagram file? Thanks for cooperation
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