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Everything posted by bobleny

  1. There where actual incidents last year where I needed to run LEDs from some OR and AND gates. Because LEDs run off of such a low current, the current running out of the "low" DRL gates was enough to turn them on. DRL isn't the only option for making these gates. It was the most appealing because it was fast to build, not that I understood what I built... TTL was a big turn off because I don't know much about transistors and I defenently don't want to deal with multi emitter transistors... So, Is there a way to run LEDs properly from a DRL gates?
  2. I wouldn't know. :-X But, MP did say the frech diagram was a correct working circuit. I will build the circuit I drew and hope I don't ruin my sensitive 4017s. If that doesn't work and MP has nothing to add, I will build the french circuit in multisim and see what happens.
  3. What If I need this AND gate to run something thats digital low is 0V and not 800mV?
  4. Multisim does have issues. I think I will go ahead and build it physclly. The 555 does show proper out put....
  5. And here it is! That gray thing to the right is a volt meter. I used it to check the voltages. when one input was high, the out put was almost 800mV. Thanks again!
  6. Oh, nvm, I got it to work. My problem was it needed to be grounded.... I think I understand a lot better now! Thanks!
  7. Right, sorry, multisim already has them grounded and volted. New word!
  8. Could you, by any chance show me a complete working circuit? I keep playing around with it in my multisim, but with little luck... Thanks!
  9. Alright, this is what I came up with and like always, it doesn't work... Could some one help?
  10. Hmmm... How do you make the low output, lower? Say..., 0 volts? Also, what I don't understand in detail ( lol ): Ok, first just want to say, electrons flow from negative to positive, or cathode to anode. Also, if electrons don't have a complete path they simply won't bother leaving the battery. You, of course, already knew this.... I made an image, which I feel accurately, explains what I think would happen. Obviously, what I don't understand is why this isn't true?
  11. Could some one please explain to me how a DRL AND gate works? I looked it up online, but I just don't get it... http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/diodgate.html http://hagar.up.ac.za/catts/learner/andria/tme880dice3gates.html http://www.play-hookey.com/digital/experiments/dl_and2.html Would the output always be high!? Thats what I don't get... I also never understood why the inputs are on the cathode of the diode unless the input is supposed to be ground. In that case, what if you want the input to be a positive voltage? Please Help! Thanks!
  12. Oops, I built the wrong one. I built the bowden circuit and it not work. It's to hard for me too look at, I like the french one better... Actually, I already had the bowden circuit opened in FF, I didn't like it the first time I built it... lol all well.
  13. Whats up with C2 - C6 in the french circuit? What is the J1 and C7 area on the french circuit too? That seems only for the 555. Oh, ok, C2 - C6 is for the 555 timer. Thats weird.... ok, it looks better to me now. :D
  14. I got one of these dumb things for christmas last year and it is not so great for electronics. I got the pro version which appears to be a bit more bulky and hard to handle in tight spaces. I've found the tip for this thing to be a bit big as well, it wants to touch more than I want it to. I have also found that you have to get that tip on there just right or it wont turn on. The only advantage to this thing is that you don't have a cord to get in your way. Other wise, it's not that great. I would recommend saving your money for a solder desolder station... I would love to have one of those...!
  15. How can I cascade 4017s? I know that it is possible but I do not know how. Unfortuantlly, they don't have a cascade option built into them.... Any ideas? Thanks!
  16. "clock circuit and some logic or clock circuit with 4017s" Could you expand a little bit on these two? Especially the 4017s. I am familluar with those and have access to many of them. I tried this circuit with 555 timers and got close, but it is so ridiculous! In fact, I had to take it apart and add 2 more times to it, then I probably would have needed another after that! I don't believe this circuit should require five 555 ICs! So, yes, please, expand. Thanks!
  17. Ok, crystal oscillators it is! Does any one know where I can look at some? Does anyone have any suggestions for what I should look at?
  18. I'm building a clock and would like to produce a steady 1hrz signal. Obviously, the more accurate it is, the better! Now, I know it's almost impossible to get exactly 1 pulse per second, but I defiantly want it to be close. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  19. Ok, I finally figured out how to do my clock..., I think. This is what I came up with: I have a few concerns.... First, does anyone see any problems with it? Second, please take a closer look at how and when it is reseting. Will it work that way? Third, I need a 6-Bit Binary Counter, that will work with this circuit, any numbers? And please, any comments or questions, are appreciated!
  20. The amplitude is unknown, it simply needs to click a small reed relay, I don't belive this will be a problem. It is a continues pulse, where it goes high for .5 seconds, low for 1 second, then high again for .5 seconds, then repeats every 4seconds. I should have said that in the first place! :-[
  21. What would be the easiest and fastest way to produce this signal?
  22. I don't know if it is even possible to draw a truth table for this!?? I've been thinking about it, and yeah, I'm not sure if it is possible. lol Well, at least I can't figure it out....
  23. If the car already has power windows, you can use the wire that is already ran to the driver door. Personally, I would just install another switch, with all the windows in parallel. Then, if you want, you could add a timer so when the button is pressed the windows will roll down on their own. However you do it, the wires to all the windows should already be in the driver side door.
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