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MP
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Posts posted by MP
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Since you are using an effect that is not even meant to be used with your instrument, you will need a little experimentation to get by with the least amount of changes. If you would like to experiment with the values, I would start with changing the value of C2 and C3 to 1 micro farad or even to 2.2 micro farad. Then try the effect again. This might be all that you need. If you still need amplification, the next step is to change R13 to 470K. Again, you should try the effect before going further.
If you are still not there, tell me what you have resolved and what you have not. For example, you might have good amplification with not much effect. In this case, you would need to fix the amplification values in the threshold and attack part of the circuit.
MP -
Overdrive creates distortion that is called "fuzz".
...or it can also cause damage to the circuit. Uncontrolled or uncalculated overloading is actually harmful and might sound great for a few minutes.....then poof! :'(
LM386 is not an input stage. It is a power amp chip. It has no place in the input stages of effects or amplifiers. Connect a speaker to it and use as a practice amp if you must use it for something.
MP
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same member...
See my reply. You are correct in what you posted. In my teens, I was a rock guiitarist when I fell in love with the electronics involved. My first step was building professional cabinets for myself and other groups. I used a calculation program that took into effect the dampnig factors, slew rates, ohms, etc. Made some pretty nice cabs in those days. Later, I went on to circuit board design and manufacture and then, Electronic Technology.
I applaud you for your 25 years of experience in this field.
MP
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The data sheet is here:
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlc5904.pdf
The answers to your questions are in the datasheet. Dout is described somewhere around page 17.
1MHZ clock should be ok. It will just transfer data much slower.
MP -
ReCoC,
You don't want to use the LM386 output to go into the input of your BASS amp. The overload is not good for the input section of the amp. The LM386 also does not make a good distortion unit. It clips too much.
Just increase the value of the input cap on your effect pedal so that it is allowing the low frequencies to pass. This is where you are losing some of the amplitude. If you still need amplification, change the feedback resistor on inverter a2c in the effect circuit. The R13 and R7 ratio determines amplification. If this does not help, add an amplification stage like a2c right after a2f. Note that this will invert your signal again, so you will want to add two if this is a problem. You can use a larger ratio between the input resistor and the feedback resistor to increase gain.
MP -
Here is also a PIC to Unipolar design that uses darlingtons. Of course, if you are running your circuit from the parallel port of a PC, you can connect the parallel port at points RA0, RA1, etc and not use a PIC.
Hope these are helpful to someone. The URL for the original site is at the bottom of the page on this pdf, so you can go there to get more information.
MP -
Here is a schematic that will allow you to use 4 wire bipolar or 6 wire unipolar in the same circuit. It is also an example of using 5 volts for the digital circuitry and a larger voltage for the stepper motor as I described above.
MP -
Hi Nikolas,
From the drawing it looks like he has a board. Not sure. Did you know that you can change bipolar to unipolar on the 8 wire motors easily? You just connect the two center wires.
I have attached a basic drawing in case anyone is interested.
MP
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You won't be able to supply 12 volts to the stepper in this configuration. Just connect to the board. In a configuration where you use 12 volts for the stepper, you usually use a different stepper. Aren't your steppers 5 volt ones? I thought this was the case. In a setup where you would use both the 5 volt and the 12 volt tap of the power supply, you would have your digital circuitry running from the 5 volt source and the motor circuit running from the 12 volt source.
MP -
Stath,
I am not clear why you are using an adjustable regulator, then you have an additional adjustment pot after the regulator. This can cause some loading on the other circuit. Also, this depends a lot on the schematic of the voltmeter. If you must have an isolated ground, you can use a higher voltage regulator and lift the ground up from common with a resistor. I have also seen a post from ante where he coils a piece of wire and puts it on the transformer to make an isolated tap. Then rectifies it as an isolted small voltage supply.
MP -
nikolaw,
Here is a good site that can help you with this:
http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~ih/doc/stepper/
MP -
gaeasNavel, I have sent you a file by email at your yahoo account.
MP -
agreed!
MP -
Thanks everyone!!!
BTW, does MP stand for Master Programmer, or Microcontroller Programmer? ;D
No, it does not. But I AM a programmer.... ;D
Good luck with your project!
MP
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Where in Rod's post did he say he was specifically refering to a DC motor with brushes and a commutator, or a brushless motor with an electronic commutator?
Seems you have hijacked another thread to discuss your own subject....
In fact, it seems that you have scared Rod away. He hasn't posted since you started digging on him.
MP -
With a quick look, C1 should be a much larger value.
Also, the voltmeter has it's own setup. It must only use a samll voltage form the larger supply. For example, the voltmeter will have input resistors that scale down the voltage so that it is really only looking at approximately 200 mA. So if you have not set this up correctly, you will get a full scale.
Hope it helps.
MP -
The guy in the tutorial had a hell of a time making this work. You go ahead and make it any way you want, audioguru. Could you please explain the code in the link you have cited as the reason you disagree with me? oops. Sorry. I forgot. You do not know how to program a micro.
But going back to the original comments: Rod.Rahul was told that PWM was required. As I posted above, Rod, you do not require PWM for speed control on your L298. You can go ahead and use the PC control that you want to use with simple pulses. This can be through serial or parallel ports. My automated drill uses this principle. I use the up and down arrow on my pc keyboard to control speed of the feed. No PWM.
MP -
Tkjas, you posted in the wrong area. You should have asked this question in the microcontroller area where programmers would have given you an answer.
Here is a link that will help:
http://www.embedded.com/story/OEG20010221S0034
Best of luck!
MP -
Without looking at your diagram, I can only guess. But it sounds like you just need a split supply. You do not have to use the same common for two circuits. There are many designs where the common for one section of a circuit is floating at a different potential than the common of the other circuit.
Looking forward to seeing your diagram.
MP -
Posted in wrong forum. Go to [iurl]http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=8128.0[/iurl]
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Posted in wrong forum. Go to [iurl]http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=8197.0[/iurl]
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Posted in wrong forum. Go to [iurl]http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=8272.0[/iurl]
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In looking at your schematic, it seems that you are powering and also grounding your motors through the relays. Perhaps I misunderstood which lines were which. However, if this is the case, I would advise that you use a permanent ground or permanent voltage connection and only use the relay for the other lead. You only need to disable one connection to the motor to stop it from running. This will reduce some arcing in the relays and the circuit will last longer without the need for maintenance.
Next, you should probe the circuit from the motor back to the digital circuit to see where the voltage loss becomes apparent. I would use a better design for the transistors used as a switch. Look closely at this area when you are probing.
MP -
Just my 2 cents on the subject.
Since a lot of this is based on field of study and individual taste, there would be so many posts that it would at some point not be very helpful. ...and of course, then you would have those members who want to argue about what is best, and that someone else's suggestion is not good, or that someone is wrong......etc.
MP
3-Axis Stepper Controller
in Projects Q/A
Posted
Is this using the schematic in our projects section or a different design? Please provide a link or post the schematic if it is not the one in our project section. We just need to know for sure which layout you are using.
A 5 wire stepper is usually the same as a 6 wire stepper with only one wire provided to supply the voltage to the center tap of both sets of windings instead of individual wires provided to the center tap of the windings as in a 6 wire stepper.
MP