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MP
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Posts posted by MP
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audioguru, don't you have a test bench? You could try this idea yourself and report back to the group how your idea worked.
MP -
You will need a negative voltage. A 7905 will only work with a negative input. There is a chip from maxim that will do what you want. It just converts your +5 to -5. Another way to do this is to use an inverter circuit to divide your battery voltage by two and give you a bipolar 6 volt supply. The maxim chip is the best solution.
There are some additional notes earlier in this thread regarding the -5 volt. It is here:
http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?board=2;action=display;threadid=119;start=15
There were also some corrections to the circuit posted in earlier messages and also here:
http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?board=4;action=display;threadid=353
MP -
fudy,
Try here:
http://www.epanorama.net/links/videocircuits.html
They have a few different schematics that might work for you.
You can also use VHF and s video as key words in a google.com search for more possibilities.
Please let us know how you came out with your circuit.
MP -
Inflak, without seeing the circuit it is hard to tell, but your scope might be interfering with the circuit, too. Since you have two units, it is best to rely on a comparison between the two rather than actual voltages and frequesncies.
MP -
Most car speakers are 4 ohms, so this application is not suitable for a car amp.
I would assume that anyone upgrading a car stereo for better sound quality or loudness is going to also install a new speaker system. In this case, you would not have to worry about what is standard in a car.
Also, I wanted to point out that there is really no longer a standard. Old cars had 4 ohm as a standard, but it seems that anything is possible with newer cars. I have seen lots of variation with ohm ratings between 4 ohm to 20 ohm, etc. I have even seen fractional ratings on some of the newer car speakers such as 12.6 ohm or similar. It depends upon who is making the sound equipment for the manufacturer. If you are upgrading, pull the speakers.
MP
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The font setting on my 98 system is Times new roman and language is "Latin Based". My Internet Explorer 6 has all the language plug-ins, so I assume most of the work is done in the background. It sounds like you have the first version of 98. Perhaps you can find the second edition somewhere. It might help.
MP -
audioguru,
The laptop is at my other office, so I will look when I get there. In the meantime, I have found the following at microsoft:
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/results.aspx?productID=&freetext=internet+explorer&DisplayLang=en
1. Internet Explorer 6 Service Pack 1
Internet Explorer 6 Service Pack 1 (SP1) is the latest version of Internet Explorer and includes a full installation of the Web browser. This update addresses the vulnerability addressed in Knowledge Base Article 326489. To learn how to get additional security updates, see the Overview section.
Date: 9/9/2002 Popularity: #4 English download
Hope it helps.
MP -
I get 15 to 20 of these per day. Since they appear to be coming from legitimate e-mail addresses, there is not much you can do but delete. I have told everyone that I e-mail, that I will never send them an e-mail with no description of the attachment, so that no one opens one with my e-mail address on it. I also never send a generic e-mail. My frst line always includes the name of the person I send it to. They also know I will never send an e-mail with nothing in the text field. This is a good indication that it is a virus.
I just delete the viruses when I get them. They are harmless unless you click on the attachment. Then hopefully, you have good virus software.
The reason you get them from yourself is because your e-mail address was in someone's address book who was infected by this virus. It is able to spoof all of the addresses in that address book.
MP -
I think there is a circuit in the projects section of this site. You might have a look there.
MP -
Siddharth, with this change you will have a voltage drop at the NPN transistor and then another voltage drop at the regulator. You will only have the voltage of the base of the NPN available to the regulator (less vbe), then the voltage drop I mentioned in a previous post. I no longer see a purpose for the regulator unless it is a safety to keep the lamp from getting more than 5 volts. If this is the case, you could use a 5.1 volt zener at the base of the NPN and remove the regulator.
I have posted your circuit for better view.
MP
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The font displayed in your e-mail is determined by your operating system and your choices in outlook. The font is not downloaded.
I have no problem accessing this with my win98 operating system on my old 350 MHZ PII laptop, so I doubt that it is a Win98 problem. You can get "Outlook 6 for Win98" free from the microsoft website. It was considered a critical update.
MP -
ante, how do you register? I could not find a link for this.
Thanks,
MP -
This is what I suggested you do in reply #8. We look forward to your circuit post.
MP -
It sounds as if you are looking for combinations of modulo counters, which you want to construct. Here is a link that might help you:
http://www.colorado.edu/physics/phys3330/PDF/Experiment10.pdf
My personal method would be to use a microcontroller. One chip would do it all and more.
MP -
daron, are you looking for a schematic of a transistor circuit that will blink an LED or are you looking for a cross reference for the transistor you mentioned?
If you are looking for a cross reference for the transistor, you will have better results in the data sheet request forum of this community.
MP -
where are these numbers going? are they pulses? are they displayed on a LED displayed on a LCD? tones?
MP -
siddharth, is it possible to post your circuit with the changes that you have made? A picture would be very helpful.
MP -
Here is what you said:
The author recently told me that he may update his circuit with my improvements when he has time in a couple of months.
But it would seem in your last post that he only agreed to try the circuit with your changes in a couple of months. This is a little different than stating that he will update the circuit with your improvements.
I had no doubt that you corresponded. Just the accuracy of the statement as retold by you. And as I see...
About the filter: Yes, I meant to type low pass and typed high. No big deal since I wanted to point out that you were creating a filter here. But the rest of my statement is not changed. You have added a lowpass filter which changes the function. ANY filtering here would cause me concern. Also, I understand digital very well, thank you, as I work and design in the digital world every day. I do not have a misunderstanding of how NAND gates work. You can keep your snyde remarks to yourself in areas that I moderate or see a quick lack of posts from yourself in them. I hope this is very clear to you since you have had a language barrier with me in the past. I have told you before that if you have an argument with me, you can do it in private message. This is your last warning about this. The forum is no place for your arguments or insult and this will not be tolerated.
MP
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jacuinde, you have LM35 and two 7 segment displays. What is in between?
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Ante, good suggestion and nice clear schematic. I do not think you misunderstood.
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Siddharth, I just checked the regulator on the bench. As I said, the above voltages were verified. I do not recall which path you went from the original design. Can you post your fnal circuit?
MP -
The author recently told me that he may update his circuit with my improvements when he has time in a couple of months.
Please post the e-mail thread for us to see. I am curious how he worded this.
MP
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Do we have ANY projects that work properly? (2 inverters, 30V power supply, stethoscope, IR detector, 6-channel disco lights, batteries charger, roadrunner, etc. and now this one).
The authors of the above claimed that their circuit works.
I had fixes for them all.
That is quite a boast. You suggested changes but did you even heat a solder iron on one of them? It is easy to suggest changes to a circuit and still have it work.
I have seen no confirmation that you fixed anything on this site. However, I have seen you boast that you taught Phillips semiconductor everything they know about transistors. And I am sure some day we will hear you boast how you fixed everything on this site. ::)
But tell me, what degree of electronics education does one show when he argues that "current" can be stored in a capacitor?
By the way: You just made a high pass filter. The resistance between the probes combined with the capacitor you have added. A small change to you, but a big design change in how the circuit will react.
MP
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I was told once that practice is substance and theory is mostly air
Very true my friend. Theory is only a starting point.
If the dimmer knob for your car's dashboard didn't work, wouldn't you complain and wonder why-not?
If I made the dimmer switch myself, I would not be so quick to ask the manufacturer to redesign the switch, and especially when others have claimed it works.
MP
KA7812
in Electronic Projects Design/Ideas
Posted
...however, if your multimeter shows a short between any of the pins, you can stop there and know that the device is bad. In this case, you would have a bad result by testing the circuit with power applied.
MP