- Joined
- Jan 21, 2010
- Messages
- 25,510
Good job.
And here you learn something:
1) if you start from the obvious problem and work backward, the problem will be at the point furthest from where you start!
2) if you start at the power supply, the fault will likewise be as far as possible away from it
I was starting to think we were being a bit "scatter-gun" in the approach, but it paid off.
Did you note the output voltage on the 7812 earlier? Did I miss it?
It's also worth making sure that the 7812 isn't getting hot. There is a possibility that there is a hidden fault or that it's being pushed a little too hard (in which case the 7815 would be having an even harder time...)
Alternatively, just wait and see if it fails again
And here you learn something:
1) if you start from the obvious problem and work backward, the problem will be at the point furthest from where you start!
2) if you start at the power supply, the fault will likewise be as far as possible away from it
I was starting to think we were being a bit "scatter-gun" in the approach, but it paid off.
Did you note the output voltage on the 7812 earlier? Did I miss it?
It's also worth making sure that the 7812 isn't getting hot. There is a possibility that there is a hidden fault or that it's being pushed a little too hard (in which case the 7815 would be having an even harder time...)
Alternatively, just wait and see if it fails again
Is it still working?
Hi Vocal. Came across your thread by chance and found that your problem and CB are/were identical to mine. Did replacing the transistor work out long term or has it burned out again? Hopefully you'll get this message as I've been trying to fix this problem for over a year now with no luck.
Hi Vocal. Came across your thread by chance and found that your problem and CB are/were identical to mine. Did replacing the transistor work out long term or has it burned out again? Hopefully you'll get this message as I've been trying to fix this problem for over a year now with no luck.
Hi Steve. I've got the same board as Vocal with the same symptoms:- E1 a few seconds after the start button is pressed because the belt motor doesn't move, if the belt is turned by hand there is no E1 until it stops, belt motor spins if I apply 18V DVC to it, incline motor works fine, no illumination of drive belt motor LED next to large capacitor marked QC1. Problem was sporadic as treadmill would sometimes work for a while and then stop but is now constant. There were 2 plate capacitors next to QC1 shorted out which I've replaced and I also replaced the 78L12 as per the fault with vocal but to no effect. Any thoughts on what might be the problem would be gratefully received but please bear in mind that I'm completely new to electronic work so any advice has to be in terms that an idiot can understand. Thanks in advance.
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2010
- Messages
- 25,510
Start by posting photos of the board as Vocal did. Then we'll start running through the same tests. It may diverge if you get different results.
Do you own a multimeter?
hi all,
i need exactly this part.
https://www.electronicspoint.com/at...tor-control-board-testing-20130419_191930.jpg
how can i find it? can you tell me the name?
i need exactly this part.
https://www.electronicspoint.com/at...tor-control-board-testing-20130419_191930.jpg
how can i find it? can you tell me the name?
Attachments
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2010
- Messages
- 25,510
I need this part because it's broken
That's not one part, it's about 30. (edit: actually make that 60 or more)
I have no idea where you could get a replacement board.
Why do you think this sub-board has a fault?
Last edited:
because, when i'm moving this part sometimes its work.
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2010
- Messages
- 25,510
In that case, the problem may simply be that a solder joint is faulty.
I would start by looking at all the solder joints on the connector between the two boards. Wiggle the board and see if any move. Do any look unlike the others (dull or crystalline appearance?). Maybe one completely lacks solder!
Post nice sharp photos of the solder side in the vicinity of the board and we can look too.
Even if you can't find anything, you can resolder all the joints (typically as simple as melting the solder on each joint in turn) and that will either fix the problem or eliminate it as a possibility.
There is a smaller chance that the same thing could have happened to any other component on the sub-board, or even on the main board. Another possibility is a crack in either board that has broken a track.
Most of these problems are pretty easily fixed. Often the hard part is finding them.
I would start by looking at all the solder joints on the connector between the two boards. Wiggle the board and see if any move. Do any look unlike the others (dull or crystalline appearance?). Maybe one completely lacks solder!
Post nice sharp photos of the solder side in the vicinity of the board and we can look too.
Even if you can't find anything, you can resolder all the joints (typically as simple as melting the solder on each joint in turn) and that will either fix the problem or eliminate it as a possibility.
There is a smaller chance that the same thing could have happened to any other component on the sub-board, or even on the main board. Another possibility is a crack in either board that has broken a track.
Most of these problems are pretty easily fixed. Often the hard part is finding them.
Im glad my post was useful to someone. Just to let you know, my machine is working till now
That's great, 12 months later and still going .... the good ol' 7812 does it get overly hot ... did you use a heatsink on it?
and its good to see you are still around on the forum
cheers
Dave
That's great, 12 months later and still going .... the good ol' 7812 does it get overly hot ... did you use a heatsink on it?
and its good to see you are still around on the forum
cheers
Dave
One year... indeed, and still going
I did not use heatsink.
Im still around and still learning
Hi Vocal, what brand machine was your board from? Mine is HyperExtension which may just be a rebrand of another manufacturer which doesn't help with locating spares unless the original manufacturer is known. Thanks in advance for any information.One year... indeed, and still going
I did not use heatsink.
Im still around and still learning
No idea what is the manufacturer. I wanted to replace mcb but could not find spares so with help in here I managed to repair it.
Turn machine on, press start button and check the voltage to the motor. Then unplug the machine from the mains, disconnect motor and test voltage to the motor with motor disconnected. Also, can you hear a click (relay switching on) when when E1 appears on the display? Be VERY CAREFUL doing this. Post results.
Turn machine on, press start button and check the voltage to the motor. Then unplug the machine from the mains, disconnect motor and test voltage to the motor with motor disconnected. Also, can you hear a click (relay switching on) when when E1 appears on the display? Be VERY CAREFUL doing this. Post results.
Last edited:
Similar threads
