555 monostable help

Tha fios agaibh

Aug 11, 2014
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Hope i can get some direction designing a timer circuit. What i want is a 5 second "on delay" on power up that would drive a monostable timer which would give a "one shot" of about 1/2 second to fire a small relay.
I have seen many examples using a push button or neg trigger but only one timer circuit that basically used a .1uf and 1meg rc network across the push button.

Can this be done with one 555 timer or does it need two stages of 555's or one 556?
 

KrisBlueNZ

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You need to be clear. So you want a circuit that, when it receives power, waits five seconds then activates a relay for 0.5 seconds. Is that right? If so, it can be done with no 555s at all. Can you confirm that that's what you want? And what's your power supply voltage?
 

Tha fios agaibh

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Exactly, I want to use it in my car so when i remote start it it will start my heated seats. So about 13volt supply.
the on delay time is not critical say 5 or ten seconds and then need the relay contacts to switch for just under a second to simulate pushing a button.
 

chopnhack

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Exactly, I want to use it in my car so when i remote start it it will start my heated seats. So about 13volt supply.
the on delay time is not critical say 5 or ten seconds and then need the relay contacts to switch for just under a second to simulate pushing a button.
Cool project!
Do you have the wiring schematic of that circuit for your auto? I am curious to see if bypassing the relay (heated car seat) bypasses the thermostat that resets the relay to off... I guess it would depend on where you wire it, just curious. Some auto manufacturers integrate their products so much, that bypassing something can cause other issues, check well!
 

Tha fios agaibh

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Cool project!
Do you have the wiring schematic of that circuit for your auto? I am curious to see if bypassing the relay (heated car seat) bypasses the thermostat that resets the relay to off... I guess it would depend on where you wire it, just curious. Some auto manufacturers integrate their products so much, that bypassing something can cause other issues, check well!
It's the same as pushing the button in the car. I don't have a print but should be easy to find a point to tie into to get 12v eg accessory power. The relay contacts will push the button for me.
 

KrisBlueNZ

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OK, I had a think about this and here's the circuit I came up with.

271669.001.GIF

The circuit produces a pulsed closure of the relay contacts after about five seconds of being powered up. The pulse is about half a second long. After power is removed, power must remain OFF for about 30 seconds, otherwise it won't pulse the relay when power is reapplied. This is to prevent nuisance activations.

It uses all standard components except for the following.

RV is a V18AUMLA2220 automotive varistor and is needed to protect the whole circuit from spikes and surges that are present on the automotive supply. Unfortunately this device is only available in SMT, but it shouldn't be hard to solder. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/V18AUMLA2220H/F3807CT-ND/2627727

CL needs to be a low-leakage electrolytic. I recommend the Nichicon KL series part marked on the schematic. CD and CW can be the same type. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UKL1E330MED1TD/493-10492-1-ND/4318106

K1 is a reed relay and must have a maximum coil current of 12 mA or less. Digi-Key's cheapest option is http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/9007-12-00/306-1064-ND/301698 but you can use any of the results from this filter: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?FV=fff40010,fff80368,1140050,1200002,a700009,a7c0019,a7c0027,a7c002b,a7c003f,a7c0054,a8c0007,16040020&ColumnSort=1000011&stock=1&quantity=1&pageSize=250

You can build the circuit on stripboard or any similar prototyping system.


Here's a circuit descripton. Don't worry if you don't understand it fully.

The automotive +12V supply is first clamped to 40V by RV, an automotive varistor, then passed through RS and further clamped by DZ and smoothed by CS.

When power is first applied, CL is fully discharged (by RL) and CD is fully discharged (by RP). Therefore QC and QL are both OFF; this part of the circuit remains in that state initially. As QL is OFF, RP and RK pull its drain up to +12V and DH is reverse-biased, so CW starts to charge through RW. This time period is the "wait" time ("W") before the relay is pulsed.

After about five seconds, with the values given, the voltage on CW reaches about 2V, the typical VGS(th) voltage for QK, and QK begins to conduct, activating the relay. With QK's drain voltage pulled down near 0V, CD begins to charge through DD and RD. This time delay sets the relay pulse duration ("D").

When the voltage across CD reaches about 0.6V, QC begins to conduct and this starts a latching action between QC and QL. Current through DC and RC rapidly charges CL; this makes QL conduct, and current through RK charges CD further. Once this latching action begins, there is no longer a need for current through RD; the circuit will latch regardless. With QL ON, CW is discharged through RH and DH and the relay is deactivated.

In this state, the circuit node marked +LOCKOUT sits at about 12V. If power is removed, CL discharges slowly through RL; if power is reapplied too soon, QL still has forward bias so the QL/QC circuit latches again, and no relay pulse is generated. Only if power is removed for long enough for +LOCKOUT to drop below QL's gate threshold voltage will the circuit generate a new pulse after power-up.

Because the gate threshold voltages of the MOSFETs are not very tightly controlled, the timings stated here are only approximate. If you have problems with timings being too far out of specification, you can try MOSFETs from a different batch or different manufacturer, or adjust capacitor values to compensate.

When the relay activates, the positive rail drops about 1V due to the relay current causing a drop across RS. This doesn't affect the circuit. After the pulse has been generated, the circuit draws about 1 mA (current through RK).
 
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Tha fios agaibh

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Kris, Thank you so much. I was trying to figure this out, but trying to rely on relays (not a good plan)
I'm grateful for your expertise and excited to learn something.
PS; Here is some doodling I pulled from the trash canIMG30.jpg .
 

Tha fios agaibh

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20141218_220410.jpg A big thank you to krisBlueNZ.
Works as designed except the trigger time is a little longer than expected. (about 1sec) but close enough for the application. Thanks again, John
 

Tha fios agaibh

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20141220_232127.jpg
Update on heated seat timer;

Final install had a few challenges but timer is now installed and working fine.

I had not realized that the push button for the heated seats (and everything else on the car) work via digital data bus so it was not as easy as just tying into the wire harness., I had to hack into the membrane of the switch cluster and solder a few wires to get it to work.
All is well that ends well.
 
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