Star Shower motion button bypass

[LouF]

In this case the result would be a constant toggle, where the motion would go on for approximately 2 seconds, the motion would stop for 2 seconds, the motion would start for 2 seconds.

From what I recall from initial tinkering, a constant short of the switcg did not work that way; I believe it did not toggle until the button was released. My memory may be getting fuzzy on this, but I know I found out a simple shorting of the switch would not work, hence a more complicated solution was needed. I then tried to simplify an electronic design with R-C to simulate a "button push" within a viable curve.

 

[LouF]

Hi LouF, Turns out I have 2 of these units. The earlier one I purchased does "remember" the setting ... The 2nd one does not "remember" the setting. I have them both open so in a day or two will report on what is actually different. I looked at them at two different times, if I recall correctly the board inside is the same, I will look across the components.


But somewhere you said that this is at your father's house, and it takes 2 or 3 times to get it working (I can't find your actual quote.) Can you let me know what you meant. Does it take 2 or 3 start times before is evens out and works pretty consistently? Is there any manual operation outside of the timer that might be required on occasion?


Once I get these two units open side-by-side, I will message back since I have now taken them down. Maybe I will find something else to do, but your solution if robust enough is certainly quick and easy. Thanks.

Thankyou for the info. between the two. Could the difference in the circuitry be so small that it is only a capacitor to save a state in memory?


Yes, 2-3 times of flipping the power switch (located indoor for the outdoor receptacle of which the unit is plugged into) to activated motion. That is, learning the timing of on-off at the switch. Once it starts motion, it is on. Activation it is not very consistent, but this year it has worked out better. I recall having a hard time during "design" trying to get a good R-C combination for timing. After I did, all of a sudden the timing seemed to change.

I'm not exactly sure of what you're asking "manual opetation our side of the timer", but if I got it, yes, the button can still be manually pushed on the unit. - But get this, one time the button did not work, and one time motion started and then stopped (I almost took the R-C out and was going to tell him I can't do it, LOL). So far, it has been reasonably functional (it's better than going outside every day, LOL), and I wonder if temperature affects the capacitor.


I would be interested in what you find between the two. Yes, quick, easy, and it was my "engineering economy" attempt, LOL. I had inspiration from my floodlight motion detector, where (by a much more consistent design), the floodlight will be switched on indefinitely if the power switch is turned off for 1 second and then back on - it works great as long as one counts an honest second.

I hope I explained clearly.

 

[WrongWayRay]

The Star Shower Motion laser decoration light has a motion button that toggles the motion on and off. Upon shutting off the power (either by switch or timer) the motion needs to be manually started. It appears to be a soft-switch, and I was thinking of trying to bypass it with, possibly, a capacitor. My thought is that upon power-up, current could flow simulating a manual push, and as it is charged the current flow would be impeded; I don't think a hard-switch would be the way to go. Any thoughts?

 

[WrongWayRay]

I have modified several Star Shower Motion Projectors to start movement on startup without using the motion button being pressed. Works everytime. Might not be as simple as you are wanting.

You will need to buy :
A) dual voltage transformer 12V .5 amp and 5V 2amp (I had one in my scrap box)
B) 12V Delay circuit you can get on ebay for under $2
C) Security screwdriver triangled shaped to open Case.

Open unit by removing 4 back rubber plugs and removing the 4 triangles shaped security screws. Lightly pull back off.

Inside modifications:
A) Cut the 2 blue wires that goes up to motion switch, at the switch.
B) Cut the original transformer's power wire where it comes in the housing on the inside. This inside wire brings 5V power to the projector ( take out old transformer and connector that takes wire into projector case)
C) Cut end off Dual voltage transformer's wire so you have long wire. Then strip back wires and probe with your multimeter to find your 12VDC and 5VDC wires. Push this wire into housing through hole left from where old transformer wire and connector was removed from case. I used a ziptie on wire so it would not slide back out. Later you will need to silicon this hole shut.
D) hook 12V wires only to the 12V Delay Circuit.
E) hook blue wires that you cut off motion switch and put in Delay Circuit Relay screw terminals. Put wires on terminals that are normally Open. This will be the terminals your meter will show no continuity when Delay Circuit is off.
. E) hook the 5V wires only to the power wires that go to projector electronics that you cut earlier that was left inside.

I put the delay board in the space that is in the middle section on the side by the switch. Dab of hot glue worked great to hold in place.
Now close the unit but do not put in screws.

Press top switch to Red & Green laser selection.
Block light sensor with a piece of black electrical tape or any dark tape (projector only works in the dark)
Power unit up by plugging in new transformer.
Lasers will immediately fire up
After about 10 seconds the motion will start.
Motion with immediately start and stay on till you power down.

PUT in the 4 security screws to hold case together. Dont forget the 4 rubber plugs.

Trouble Shooting:
---- if not laser, put unit in very dark room and plug in ONLY WORKS IN DARK -----
---- if still no laser, double check laser selection switch on top is to one side or the other but not in the middle OFF position.

My lights are attached outside high up on my walls plugged in an outlet that I have an indoor switch that turns it ON/OFF.
Why high up a wall facing downward? I live where there is snow on the ground and this looks great in the snow. The mooses dont know what to think of all the motion. I have 11 units at the time and it looks great.

==============================================================================

I made several projectors that are 12V battery powered. I used the same $2 12V Delay circuit as the above project. But this time use the 12V coming in the case to power both the Delay Circuit and a 12V to 5V 2A converter. This 5V goes to power projector. So no dual power transformer needed.

Note: The newer Star Shower Ultra9 that does everything these units do also has the feature that what ever setting you choose to run you projector will still be set the same after power OFF and power ON. It retains its settings. So if you have motion with Red and Green laser set, it always turns back on with that setting till changed. No need for the above modification. These also seem to run with about half power than my modified ones above. And the biggest bonus, it has a RF remote.

WrongWayRay

 

[WrongWayRay]

I have modified several Star Shower Motion Projectors to start movement on startup without using the motion button that works everytime. Might not be as simple as you are wanting.

You will need to buy :
A) dual voltage transformer 12V .5 amp and 5V 2amp (I had one in my scrap box)
B) 12 Delay circuit you can get on ebay for under $2
C) Security screwdriver triangled shaped to open Case.

Open unit by removing 4 back rubber plugs and removing the 4 triangles shaped security screws. Lightly pull back off.

Inside modifications:
A) Cut the 2 blue wires that goes up to motion switch, at the switch.
B) Cut the original transformer's power wire where it comes in the housing on the inside. This inside wire brings 5V power to the projector ( take out old transformer and connector that takes wire into projector case)
C) Cut end off Dual voltage transformer's wire so you have long wire. Then strip back wires and probe with your multimeter to find your 12VDC and 5VDC wires. Push this wire into housing through hole left from where old transformer wire and connector was removed from case.
D) hook 12V wires only to the 12V Delay Circuit.
E) hook blue wires that you cut off motion switch and put in Delay Circuit Relay screw terminals. Put wires on terminals that are normally Open. This will be the terminals your meter will show no continuity when Delay Circuit is off.
. E) hook the 5V wires only to the power wires that go to projector electronics that you cut earlier that was left inside.

I put the delay board in the space that is in the middle section on the side by the switch. Dab of hot glue worked great to hold in place.
Now close the unit but do not put in screws.

Press top switch to Red & Green laser selection.
Block light sensor with a piece of black electrical tape or any dark tape (projector only works in the dark)
Power unit up by plugging in new transformer.
Lasers will immediately fire up
After about 10 seconds the motion will start.
Motion with immediately start and stay on till you power down.

PUT in the 4 security screws to hold case together.

Trouble Shooting:
---- if not laser, put unit in very dark room and plug in ONLY WORKS IN DARK -----
---- if still no laser, double check laser selection switch on top is to one side or the other but not in the middle OFF position.

My lights are attached outside high up on my walls plugged in an outlet that I have an indoor switch that turns it ON/OFF.
Why high up a wall facing downward? I live where there is snow on the ground and this looks great in the snow. The mooses dont know what to think of all the motion. I have 11 units at the time and it looks great.

==============================================================================

I made several projectors that are 12V battery powered. I used the same $2 12V Delay circuit as the above project. But this time use the 12V coming in the case to power both the Delay Circuit and a 12V to 5V converter. This 5V goes to power projector. So no dual power transformer needed.

Note: The newer Star Shower Ultra9 that does everything these units do also has the feature that what ever setting you choose to run you projector will still be set the same after power OFF and power ON. It retains its settings. So if you have motion with Red and Green laser set, it always turns back on with that setting till changed. No need for the above modification. These also seem to run with about half power than my modified ones above.

WrongWayRay

 

[LouF]

I have modified several Star Shower Motion Projectors to start movement on startup without using the motion button that works everytime. Might not be as simple as you are wanting.

You will need to buy :
A) dual voltage transformer 12V .5 amp and 5V 2amp (I had one in my scrap box)
B) 12 Delay circuit you can get on ebay for under $2
C) Security screwdriver triangled shaped to open Case.

Open unit by removing 4 back rubber plugs and removing the 4 triangles shaped security screws. Lightly pull back off.

Inside modifications:
A) Cut the 2 blue wires that goes up to motion switch, at the switch.
B) Cut the original transformer's power wire where it comes in the housing on the inside. This inside wire brings 5V power to the projector ( take out old transformer and connector that takes wire into projector case)
C) Cut end off Dual voltage transformer's wire so you have long wire. Then strip back wires and probe with your multimeter to find your 12VDC and 5VDC wires. Push this wire into housing through hole left from where old transformer wire and connector was removed from case.
D) hook 12V wires only to the 12V Delay Circuit.
E) hook blue wires that you cut off motion switch and put in Delay Circuit Relay screw terminals. Put wires on terminals that are normally Open. This will be the terminals your meter will show no continuity when Delay Circuit is off.
. E) hook the 5V wires only to the power wires that go to projector electronics that you cut earlier that was left inside.

I put the delay board in the space that is in the middle section on the side by the switch. Dab of hot glue worked great to hold in place.
Now close the unit but do not put in screws.

Press top switch to Red & Green laser selection.
Block light sensor with a piece of black electrical tape or any dark tape (projector only works in the dark)
Power unit up by plugging in new transformer.
Lasers will immediately fire up
After about 10 seconds the motion will start.
Motion with immediately start and stay on till you power down.

PUT in the 4 security screws to hold case together.

Trouble Shooting:
---- if not laser, put unit in very dark room and plug in ONLY WORKS IN DARK -----
---- if still no laser, double check laser selection switch on top is to one side or the other but not in the middle OFF position.

My lights are attached outside high up on my walls plugged in an outlet that I have an indoor switch that turns it ON/OFF.
Why high up a wall facing downward? I live where there is snow on the ground and this looks great in the snow. The mooses dont know what to think of all the motion. I have 11 units at the time and it looks great.

==============================================================================

I made several projectors that are 12V battery powered. I used the same $2 12V Delay circuit as the above project. But this time use the 12V coming in the case to power both the Delay Circuit and a 12V to 5V converter. This 5V goes to power projector. So no dual power transformer needed.

Note: The newer Star Shower Ultra9 that does everything these units do also has the feature that what ever setting you choose to run you projector will still be set the same after power OFF and power ON. It retains its settings. So if you have motion with Red and Green laser set, it always turns back on with that setting till changed. No need for the above modification. These also seem to run with about half power than my modified ones above.

WrongWayRay

Nice job. I like it.
My method is still in use, I believe (I have to ask about it).
Funny about the moose not knowing what to make of it.