For large areas and stubborn jobs, I made myself a someting similar , a heavy duty iron from a bar of copper rod, and heat it up really good with a propane torch.
You may need something like this in order to maintain heat for larger jobs.
You may need something like this in order to maintain heat for larger jobs.
Ah so my cheating with a torch isn't so much cheating? People often do this?
Martaine2005
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I wouldn’t say often!
I’ve never done it. I buy the tool for the job. These days, a solder station is popular.
Your iron tip is too dirty, clean it and use flux on the joint along with fresh solder. Then try and desolder.
But your iron may only be 10W or 15W which is not sufficient for your particular situation. The art of soldering in MY opinion is hot and fast not warm and slow.
Use whichever method works for you.
These balls of solder avoiding the work area like the plague are really offending me. I cleaned the area particularly metal parts with power tools for God's sake then applied flux. So what are my crimping options? Bare stranded wire to these posts and how do I bridge them? I tried putting a dirty piece of bare wire in there so maybe that was my first mistake
So how many watts then?
Martaine2005
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Difficult to say. That’s why temperature controlled solder stations are ideal but can be expensive.
I have a 100W iron for large surfaces and sometimes a heat gun too to preheat the surface.
But in your case, you’d need to remove the solder or file it down in order to use crimps. Look on eBay for a cheap 60W or 100W iron. It’s certainly a good idea to have one if you tinker enough.
I have a 100W iron for large surfaces and sometimes a heat gun too to preheat the surface.
But in your case, you’d need to remove the solder or file it down in order to use crimps. Look on eBay for a cheap 60W or 100W iron. It’s certainly a good idea to have one if you tinker enough.
@Martaine2005 thanks. I may do that. I don't not tinker enough but just when I don't think I will so I'll see... Why must I clean off solder before crimping? And how would you crimp this? Are these little connectors standard. If I were to destroy one could I easily replace it? I was about to bend the tabs to bridge them together but didn't want to mess them up, but if they're made to be manipulated then maybe I can avoid soldering in this case
Martaine2005
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No, the connections are not standard. They are specifically designed for your bike. The battery is a third party device.
You would need to clean the solder away in order to use a crimp.
But a better idea is to solder a bus bar to the bridged connection.
It has to be a good solid connection as the batteries can supply lots of Amps and cause a fire.
You would need to clean the solder away in order to use a crimp.
But a better idea is to solder a bus bar to the bridged connection.
It has to be a good solid connection as the batteries can supply lots of Amps and cause a fire.
Martaine2005
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Well done, it’s soldered.
So how do you disconnect it?
So how do you disconnect it?
D/C it? It's now how I want it so it will work with my bike. Just rode a few miles. Works like my other stock batteries. This was a better deal on the same battery, just wired a lil different
Delta Prime
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Sorry buddy your connection looks like garbage.
It is why you do not solder on 48 Volt systems that can and will take more than the 20 Amps,soldered connections will melt . it is why they are welded or crimp connected..
you only respond to those who think as you do, but that is bad engineering practice you are performing and you will soon find out why when you’re on the road and you, peg the throttle…your connection will melt away.
It is why you do not solder on 48 Volt systems that can and will take more than the 20 Amps,soldered connections will melt . it is why they are welded or crimp connected..
you only respond to those who think as you do, but that is bad engineering practice you are performing and you will soon find out why when you’re on the road and you, peg the throttle…your connection will melt away.
Delta Prime
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To
Well it was originally soldered. I just re-did it to make work with my bike
Martaine2005
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Soldered connections (if done correctly) are very low resistance so won’t/shouldn’t heat up.
Now, if inferior wire or wrong gauge is used, the wire can heat up and melt the solder. That’s not the solders fault, it’s bad engineering!.
My battery packs include a 72V. The cells are spot welded and the battery terminals are soldered.
Granted, others are spot welded but not all.
In the OPs case, the terminals were originally soldered too.
Just my 2 cents.
I agree, I prefer to clean a connection up by removing all the evident oxidization first!
Martaine2005
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Blimey guys, give a little credit where it’s due.
The OP can’t solder but got it done somehow.
Even admitted that it’s not the prettiest!.
Remember, we all started at the beginning.
The OP can’t solder but got it done somehow.
Even admitted that it’s not the prettiest!.
Remember, we all started at the beginning.
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