It may be possible to replace the motor with one made for the same line of turntables and intended for sale in the 60Hz world but since you've not included any brand or model information, I can't advise.
Is it running too fast? If so, it uses a shaded pole motor that depends on the line frequency to set it's speed. A current transformer will not help. A frequency converter would but it's not a cost effective solution.
If you filter for through hole components only, the list probably gets very small. I did this recently for op amps on Digikey and the list went from 30k+ parts to 6 suddenly. ;)
Using a resistor in place of the heater coil only distributes the same heat differently. If you use a large enough resistor/rheostat, the specific heat will be reduced so it's only warm to the touch but the total heat dissipated will be the same.
The use of part of the heater to limit current...
There's a resource on this site for that and many other frequently asked questions.
Start here:
https://www.electronicspoint.com/resources/got-a-question-about-driving-leds.5/
"Annoyance with Transistor Theory?"
I've been enlightened reading this thread. It stretched my technician-sized brain a bit so I want to thank all the major contributors. I don't mind that there are competing points of view as long as everyone's civil and the discussion doesn't get too redundant.
I'm not an administrator or moderator either, just a member.
For reference, I believe this is your profile on AAC.
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/members/alan7s.259922/
Many members are members on multiple electronics forums, often using the same username and avatar. The forums often use...
The unused pins make the off times in the sequence. Try connecting an LED and appropriate limiting resistor to one of the unused pins (other end to ground) and see for yourself.
A larger capacitor slows the timing.
The capacitor is a tank of energy that's being filled or emptied. The rate of that process is controlled by the resistors.
That is difficult to make sense of. I'll bet I would find a ready market for breadboards in Prague. The best guess I can make is that there are some connections between the 4017 outputs and 4075 inputs that haven't been made.
Or it could be any of a variety of things. It's generally not useful to analyze a circuit for faults based on a verbal description provided by the same person who, presumably, built in the flaw(s). Since my previous humorous attempt to suggest it was lost on you, let me use the word "photograph".
Your question has been asked and answered. If you don't know how well your existing equipment will work, why not find out before rejecting the offered suggestion, especially when the alternative conflicts with your stated money saving goal?
You stated earlier that you intend to use high powered LEDs. This circuit can't drive them directly. You must modify the circuit to include the FETs previously mentioned in post 2.
Any rating above 12V will work for the capacitors. I mentioned 50V because that's the lowest available rating for...
It's cheap insurance. Hobbyists and the inexperienced are known to connect and disconnect loads indiscriminately with the circuit powered just like they would with most consumer devices. o_O
They are? I thought that was a common emitter topology. If the load or it's resistor were open, wouldn't the OR gate see high current without the base resistor?