0-30 Vdc Stabilized Power Supply

audioguru2

Apr 6, 2004
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neo_himura said:
can u please include the circuit with the values?..i'm not sure how to connect it.. and what kind of Darlington power transistor sould i use?
is 2n6036 ok?
The 2N6036 is a PNP type which is expensive and is not recommended for new designs so might not be made anymore.
I recommend a TIP-110 NPN darlington transistor that is made by many companies. View attachment 38618

 

neo_himura

Jan 31, 2006
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hi,
thanx audioguru..

Now.. I have a analog voltmeter.. can I use the same meter to display voltage and current using a switch to switch between voltmeter and ammeter?
cause i know that a voltmeter can be converted into an ammeter by adding a shunt resistor..
how do i calculate the resistor value?
thanx

 

audioguru2

Apr 6, 2004
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neo_himura said:
Now.. I have a analog voltmeter.. can I use the same meter to display voltage and current using a switch to switch between voltmeter and ammeter?
cause i know that a voltmeter can be converted into an ammeter by adding a shunt resistor..
how do i calculate the resistor value?
A shunt resistor in series with the output of the project ruins its fantastic voltage regulation.
Just switch the voltmeter to read the voltage across R7, which is the load's current.
 

neo_himura

Jan 31, 2006
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do i need to change the R7 resistor value?
doesnt the internal resistance of the voltmeter effects the total resistance?

thanx....

 

audioguru2

Apr 6, 2004
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Leave R7 at 0.47 ohms. 3A through 0.47 ohms makes a voltage drop of 1.41V. If the meter is 200mV full-scale then it needs an attenuator.
If the internal resistance of the voltmeter plus its series calibration resistor is only 47 ohms or less then the calibration will be affected.

 

fish2005

Sep 21, 2005
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I have a stupid question.
90% of profesional lab power supply is dual (floating). What is that?
Is like two 1,5V batteries? If I want, can I conect it in series and make a 3V supply or positive/negative supply +1,5V/-1,5V whith a virtual gound.
Supose I have 2 independent supply like "0-30 Vdc Stabilized Power Supply" wich are conected on two independent secondaries (double wound transformer), two independent bridge rectifier, and so on. Can I conect it in series whithout a big explosion?
Sorry for my ignorance, but I googling about a week for a good answer.


Adrian

 

Kain

Jun 16, 2004
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Hi fish2005, I am not sure if the dual power supply is also floating. One can think of the common as floating but in the case of laboratory PSU the common is very often ground as well, and as ground I mean earth. Even if it is not, the center point is called ground and positive and negative voltages are adjusted with respect to it. You can connect two of this in series without a "big boom" but I believe that the catch is that the current through them has to be the same if you want to use the full swing from 0-60V. If you use them as dual PSU I think still each stage will be on its own so you shouldn't have problems. I have done it actually.

 

fish2005

Sep 21, 2005
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Thanks for your answer, Kain.
You are wright. Those PSU have a optional earth ground. On the front panel have 4 connectors for two positive PSU and one separate connector for earth ground. You can conect it in series and you have a double voltage PSU or a floating ground positive/negative supply (+ 0 -). This ground may be unconnected (floating), or conected to earth connector. You can also connect it in parallel for double amperage.
This kind of design is verry flexible.
In my searches I found many opinions about this subject. In my knowlege is OK to connect two transformers in series (or one transformer whith two independent secondary), but I hear people that say this is imposible after rectification (some kind of short thru diodes), so is imposible to conect two regulated supply.

GRRRRR... I'm verry confuse...
I whil try to find some service manuals whith schematics for original lab PSU.


Adrian

 

logitec

Aug 6, 2005
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audioguru said:
Hi Ron,
I recommend this parts list for the project to work well and be reliable. A few months ago someone recommended adding trimpots in series with the controls for calibration.
hello agin
i have started building this project and i have left one capistor not in use where does it satnds?
C10 electrolitic 10UF

ron
 

audioguru2

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logitec said:
i have started building this project and i have left one capistor not in use where does it satnds?
C10 electrolitic 10UF
C10 is not needed. It was an extra mistake on the revised parts list.
 

neo_himura

Jan 31, 2006
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audioguru said:
Leave R7 at 0.47 ohms. 3A through 0.47 ohms makes a voltage drop of 1.41V. If the meter is 200mV full-scale then it needs an attenuator.
If the internal resistance of the voltmeter plus its series calibration resistor is only 47 ohms or less then the calibration will be affected.
my voltmeter has range of 0-30VDC and a full scale current of 27.5mA.
what is the value of series resistor should i put to convert it into an ammeter with 0-3A range..?

thanx
 
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audioguru2

Apr 6, 2004
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neo_himura said:
my voltmeter has range of 0-30VDC and a full scale current of 27.5mA.
what is the value of series resistor should i put to convert it into an ammeter with 0-3A range..?
Most digital meters have a 200mV full-scale and an extremely low input current.
Most moving coil meters are also very sensitive.
If resistors can't be removed from your meter to make it more sensitive then a complicated amplifier is needed for it.
 

marx1

Mar 30, 2006
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My question is that is there someone who have made pcb layout in EAGLE? and also generated gerber files? If there is, please could you send me those files and maybe give me some instructions how to do it!

Marx
my e-mail is: [email protected]
:)

 

pkremla

Feb 14, 2006
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Maybe this will help you. You will need Eagle v4.16. Project includes most of the changes collected from related threads. PSU works fine without any problem. Hope, is free of the bugs. Gerber files generation is quite easy (menu File->CAM Processor).

Outstanding job from Audioguru.

psu.rar

 

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cman

Apr 2, 2006
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Hey Fellas.  I found the plans for this thing a while ago (O.K. a week) and it looked like fun so i built it and it smoked.  My fault though.  I did it on one of those generic solder proto-boards and i am sure i did it wrong.  Anyhow, I salvaged what  I could, bought what I couldn't, and tried my hand at laser printer toner transfer PCD etching.  SUCCESS!  After a little messing around, it works.  I am thrilled.  Yeah, I get 2A instead of 3, and a lot of ripple up there, I know, but I will do the mods you have here (already got the tip31 and some of the resistors) Now all I need is one of those fancy boxes to put it in and a digital meter.  I may incorporate the simple TTL supply as well.  Thanks Ipso-Facto for all the help in this thread, audioguru and everyone.    CmAn;D

 

mitchnid

Apr 12, 2006
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Hello All
I’m in school in Electronic and want to use this 30v current/voltage controlled power supply as my final second semester Fabrication project... I etched a board and soldered all the components on. When I power it up I cant get more then about 7.5 v out. Pin 6 off of U1 is fixed at 11.2v, pin 3 on U2 varies from 0 o 11.2v as I vary p1, but pin 6 never gets above about 8 volts... As well LED D12 is always lit no matter where I set P2...

Any help would be appreciated...
Thanks David

 

audioguru2

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mitchnid said:
Pin 6 off of U1 is fixed at 11.2v, pin 3 on U2 varies from 0 to 11.2v as I vary p1, but pin 6 never gets above about 8 volts... As well LED D12 is always lit no matter where I set P2.
The current regulator U3 might be bad, or a wrong value resistor was used for R7, R21, R17 or P2.
C8 might be shorted.

If Q1 has its emitter and collector pins reversed, then it would act like a 7V to 8V zener diode as it has reverse breakdown which would limit the output voltage of U2. But it would not cause the current regulation to be continuous.
 

Multeri

Apr 10, 2006
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Is there any possibilities to use lower voltage transformer for lower voltage outputs?

I have a 3.2Amps rated transformer with following outputs: 13.4V, 19.2V, 26.0V and 31.9V.
So, I think if it's possible to use lower voltage outlet so PSU will produce less heat.

If that's not possible, then i propably use 24V 3A toroidal transformer and save that special transformer with some other projects.


Sorry my bad English skills.

 
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Thomas1

Feb 20, 2005
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I put an additional 8.5VAC winding on my toroidal core transformer in order to increase the voltage so 30VDC could be delivered. Because the heat generated at worst case, which is a shorted output and full current, was far to heavy to dissipate with my little heat sink, the additional winding is switched off when the temperature gets too high. This is done by a simple PTC-based comparative circuit with a relais output. I just changed a few things to achieve that the comparator can't reset itself, but requests a push button.
I wanted to go all the way and tried to switch off the "bigger" original winding instead, but apparentely the voltage was too low so the circuit for the negative voltage stopped working. Without the negative supply, the project did act quite unstable and could not be adjusted.

Of course, your smallest voltage is higher than mine, but I just want you to know that there's a limit. Can't say for sure how low you can go, though.

There is also a moment of output instability when the switching back to full voltage occurs. I think it has something to do with C1.

Do you intend to switch the windings automatically? Your 31.9V could be just a little to less. Depending on your transformer, you could perhaps put windings in series. The current is a little low, too.

 

audioguru2

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Hi Multeri,
Some resistor values will need be be reduced so that they still supply the same current with a reduced input supply. You would need to re-design nearly every one.
Also, the main voltage reference is +11.2V, so its opamp would need a supply of at least 13.2V.

For +15V output at 3A:
1) If the 2N3055 transistor for Q4 is weak but still passes its specs, it would need +16.4V on its base.
2) If the TIP31A transistor for Q2 is also weak, it will need 17.3V on its base.
3) If R15's value is reduced to 100 ohms so it doesn't waste too much voltage and Q2+Q4 are both weak, then the output of U2 must be at least 17.6V and its input supply must be at least 19.6V.
4) R7 needs 1.4V so the input supply must be at least +21V.
5) All the parts for the negative 5.6V supply will need to be analysed and the resistor values reduced.

To get a reliable supply of +21V when the mains is 10% low and the project is supplying 3A, the transformer must have a peak voltage of 26.4V to cover the voltage lost in the full-wave bridge rectifier and ripple from the main filter cap.
Therefore the transformer must have a rating of at least 26.4VDC x 3A= 79.2VA, or 18.7VAC/4.2A.

Your transformer doesn't have enough current rating but if you used its 19.2V winding then when the project is set for 3A at a low output voltage then the project will produce about 43% less heat than if the project used a 24VAC transformer.

Using the same losses as above, with a 24VAC/4.2A transformer, the project will produce a max worst case output voltage of about +22.6VDC.

 
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