Chinese Hiland 0-30V/Audioguru PSU build (down the rabbit hole)

bushtech

Sep 13, 2016
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Yep, it's a little monster. Hope it doesn't tear a hole through my plastic case a la Fukushima!:)
 

bushtech

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Update:

Installation of RV3:

RV3 1.jpg

Have I interpreted the wiring at the pot correctly?
 

Audioguru

Sep 24, 2016
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Paul's schematic does not have RV3 so which schematic are you using?
Your long green wire for C10 is different to what Paul did.
 

bushtech

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Audioguru: I am building to your Rev 6 design as per first post on this thread.
 

bushtech

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Audioguru: Correct.
Paulv: C10 connects between D13 and Q3/R19
Your Rev 6: C10 connects between R19 and U3
 

bushtech

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Install of RV2:

RV2 1 1.jpg

RV2 1 1.jpg
 

Attachments

  • RV2 2 1.jpg
    RV2 2 1.jpg
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Audioguru

Sep 24, 2016
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Your wires for RV2 are much too long and will act like antennas that might make the opamp pickup hum and other interference.
 

bushtech

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Oooh! Thanks for that. Easy to fix. Does that not apply to Rv3?
 

Audioguru

Sep 24, 2016
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I think that RV2 and RV3 should be mounted on the top or bottom if the board with very short wires or a new pcb should be used that has them included.
 

bushtech

Sep 13, 2016
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Update:

Progress on heatsink with 2 x 2N3055(insulated), BD139, LM7812, bridge rectifier and thermocouple for fan.

Crowded?? Nah!:eek:

Bridge rectifier is 6A 50V, bit on the low side, but all that I could get now.

Heatsink.jpg
 

Audioguru

Sep 24, 2016
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I hope your heatsink has fins because usually the driver transistor and bridge rectifier have their own heatsinks.
I am glad that you are using a fan.
 

Audioguru

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You might need a high power and noisy "leaf blower" to cool that little heatsink.
 

bushtech

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lol. I am planning on doing a boxing a la car radiator. If it doesn't work I'll have to get a bigger one. Roughly how big should it be?

Thanks for your guidance. I am a babe in the woods here.
 
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