Cooling electronic circut ?

Richard_Electronics

Oct 31, 2017
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Hi.
I have this Step down converter: https://prnt.sc/hhthh3 and i have problem...
I need to use it for 3-6 hours (for long time) but it is heating up, i don't want to damage it or burn it so if there is a way to cool it while in use some how i will be happy to hear solution recommendations :D
Thanks !
 

BobK

Jan 5, 2010
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How hot? Can you hold your finger on the chip without burning it (the finger that is)?

Bob
 

Richard_Electronics

Oct 31, 2017
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i didn't wanted to damage it so i stoped using it after it vas ~50°C the seller told me that converter is not suposed to work longer time because of heating if i burn this one will have to wait for other converter 40 days for shipping :p
 

kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
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I'm trying to find the datasheet for the controlling device - it looks to be an MP3500DM (? confirm) - but there's scant detail around.

Do you have a link to the original supplier? You can only determine the 'proper' use of the device from the manufacturers data.
 

BobK

Jan 5, 2010
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50C is not anything to worry about. Hell, in Phoenix the outdoor temp goes that high!

Bob
 

AnalogKid

Jun 10, 2015
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The passenger compartment of a stopped car in the AZ or NM sun (engine off, windows up) routinely exceeds the operating temperature range in MIL-STD-810. The engine compartment is significantly cooler.

ak
 

hevans1944

Hop - AC8NS
Jun 21, 2012
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How desperate are you? You can immerse the entire board in a non-conductive liquid, such as mineral oil or (expensive) Fluorinert, and then circulate that liquid through a liquid-to-air heat-exchanger with a peristaltic pump moving liquid on the liquid side and a small fan moving air on the air side. Parts are readily available to handle heat loads up to several hundred watts while maintaining the board at nearly ambient air temperature.

Some high-performance over-clocked CPU coolers use a variation of this liquid-cooling scheme, but instead of a pump depend on convection circulation. That's not anywhere nearly as efficient, but it is cheap, effective, and yields a completely closed loop cooling system with the CPU on one end and an air-cooled heat exchanger on the the other end. The system I am describing is also closed-loop, since it re-circulates the dielectric fluid, but it is open to the atmosphere. A peristaltic pump avoids exposing pump internal components to the heat exchanger fluid, but you could also use an aquarium aerator pump to circulate dielectric fluid through an off-the-shelf CPU liquid cooler heat exchanger.

Place the circuit board in a polycarbonate plastic container to contain the mineral oil (or Fluorinert if you can afford it) that the pump will circulate. You can probably build this for less than fifty bux, including the cost of a pint or about 500 ml of mineral oil.
 

Richard_Electronics

Oct 31, 2017
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I'm trying to find the datasheet for the controlling device - it looks to be an MP3500DM (? confirm) - but there's scant detail around.

Do you have a link to the original supplier? You can only determine the 'proper' use of the device from the manufacturers data.
Here is the link of seller, he told me next: "The module is very small so will heat up for short period of time."
Its price is ~1$ so it makes no sense to pay 50 bux fo cooling, im sure there is cheaper way. BTW circut's size is equal to nail.
 

hevans1944

Hop - AC8NS
Jun 21, 2012
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Here is the link of seller, he told me next: "The module is very small so will heat up for short period of time." ...
Don't see a link to the seller in your post. Sounds to me like you went for a cheap price instead of a reliable product that performs to a published specification. Umm... did the seller not provide any specifications? Did you provide the seller with specifications of what you wanted? Sounds to me like you bought a "pig in a poke" without closely examining the contents of the poke.

... Its price is ~1$ so it makes no sense to pay 50 bux fo cooling,
Since when does the cost of doing anything cheap trump the cost of doing it right? If ~1$ cost doesn't do what you want without overheating and burning out, you just paid for a piece of junk, a "pig in a poke." Order a four dozen more and wait forty weeks to get them. Let us know when you have gone through 50 bux worth of parts.

... im sure there is cheaper way. BTW circut's size is equal to nail.
It appears you may be serious, but not desperate enough yet to do it right. So here is the rock-bottom cheaper way: place the device inside a sealed plastic bag. Press out as much air as you can with your fingers before sealing the bag sufficiently to keep water from entering the bag. Place your Step down converter with wires attached, now safely sealed in the plastic bag, into a leak-proof box. Surround the device in its plastic bag with crushed ice. As the ice melts from heating up the device, add more ice. From time to time, pour off some of (but not all of) the melted ice water. Wash, rinse, and repeat until finished.

BTW what are the nail dimensions and shape, and what does that have to do with anything? Round nail? Flat nail? Framing nail? Roofing nail? Finger nail? WTF? Maybe there is a translation problem?
 

kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
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You can purchase small finned heatsinks that glue onto the top of such ICs if heat really is an issue. But as stated - if it was designed properly (or used in an application according to its specification) it wouldn't overheat in the first place.
 

Richard_Electronics

Oct 31, 2017
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You can purchase small finned heatsinks that glue onto the top of such ICs if heat really is an issue. But as stated - if it was designed properly (or used in an application according to its specification) it wouldn't overheat in the first place.

Thanks for your help. I solved the problem by "attaching" circuit to heat sink with pc cooler which is taking electric energy from 12v battery true circut which is converting to 4.5v and taking only 0.070A so i can use it without any drastic changes on voltage/amperage. Without fan: 4.5v and 3A, with fan: 4.4v and 2.93A.
 
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