thankyou audio guru ill get to it as soon as can be , just got out of bed the relay is 12 volts ill have to measure its resistance and the resisters well the pot is 1m and the first resister after that is 1m and the last 3 resisters are 1.8m each so all these timeing resisters are on the long board
high voltage photo flash capacitor charger
- Thread starter steven2
- Start date
here is the circuit that i biult this from and it dosent include the , resister devider and any modifications but if you study it right by the pictures and details ive given you can get it right
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audioguru2
- Apr 6, 2004
- 12,026
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2004
- Messages
- 12,026
Hi Steven,
I'm glad that your relay's coil is 240 ohms instead of the 40 ohms like before. I'm also glad the the 555 has a 12V supply instead of only 9V with a regulator or battery.
I suggest that you use a 1N4001 or 1N4002 diode in series between the 555's output and the relay's coil for a lower voltage loss than the 1N4148.
You are lucky that the relay works. Its minimum operating voltage is 9V. The 555's output has a typical voltage loss of 1.5V (2.2V max) and the 1N4148 has a typical (and max) voltage loss of 1V. Therefore if the relay and 555 were at their worst but still guaranteed specs, the relay won't work.
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I'm glad that your relay's coil is 240 ohms instead of the 40 ohms like before. I'm also glad the the 555 has a 12V supply instead of only 9V with a regulator or battery.
I suggest that you use a 1N4001 or 1N4002 diode in series between the 555's output and the relay's coil for a lower voltage loss than the 1N4148.
You are lucky that the relay works. Its minimum operating voltage is 9V. The 555's output has a typical voltage loss of 1.5V (2.2V max) and the 1N4148 has a typical (and max) voltage loss of 1V. Therefore if the relay and 555 were at their worst but still guaranteed specs, the relay won't work.
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unfortunately there wasent enougth room in the latest ignition coil version ,high voltage capacitor charger, pvc made circuit box to get the relay timer circuit in . so i had to make a few modifications , and leave out the relay timer circuit, that shuts off the chargeing process after the cap is charged up. i allso had to leave out the scr fireing circuit, but anyhow ill use the relay circuit and scr fireing circuit for the next upgraded one as ill have to make a larger pvc circuit box, anyhow here is the printed circuit version ignition coil driver circuit , and the printed circuit board version of that handy circuit i use to charge high voltage capacitors with, from the ignition coil . now without this handy circuit i was looseing a few timers due to some condition, here, which on another circuit useing the same parts for the ignition coil driver i wasent, so i checked the pots both 10k but one was marked as b and the other a so whether it makes a difference or not i changed one so they are both marked as a . then i put an mov across the tag strip where the tranny wires run to then to the 2n3055 npn power transistor. now i was useing an ignition coil but changed it to another one but still kept blowing timers so i removed it to and tried a different ignition coil an electronic high energy type and it seemed to work ok but even better when i put in the printed circuit version circuit that is used to charge capacitors up with through the ignition coil , and this seems to protect the timer somehow now im fresh out of 12 volts lead acid cell rechargeble high energy type batteries so i used a normal 12 volts lead acid cell battery , and now when i tested it the thing works even , silent and i was able to charge up a photo flash capacitor ok with a pritty big bang when i short out the capacitor
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the circuit thats near that funny high energy electronic ignition coil, its 100 ohms resister is under the brad as the only one i had left, its legs was to short to put on the top of the board so i solderd it under it
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in case you dident notice the 100 ohms resister is under the board, to see the picture ,instead of downloading it to see it just right click on the black square with the red cross in it, in the top left corner then left click on show picture,heres the latest pictures, im upgradeing the second out of 4 high voltage capacitor chargers, the ignition coil version, and the pictures here are of the circuitry that enables me to use with the ignition coil, that enables me to charge up high voltage capacitors. now this circuit is similiar than the other one , and has 2 neons in it . the neons are at the front pannel and are housed in modified 12 volt lights these are modified by unscrewing the colourd lense peace off , then useing a pair of pliers you braek off the terminal tabs on the bottom , the actual metal caseing inside with its thread , for the 12 volts globe drops out and you insert ya neon . green colourd or red , now with this circuit when switched on wait till both neons briefly light up , well it will be tiny, but as soon as the capacitor reaches its high charge , one of the neons will come on brightly and the other will reamain dim , so i geuss the dim neon to may come on if i charged a higher voltage capacitor to but i wont know till i get a capacitor of higher voltage on the pc board are pins, matrix pins so the wires run from them to the neons , and theres no need to solder the wires directly to the board , otherwise you would have to remove the board from the circuit box in order to resolder any loose wires back in , and the way i have it if a strand comes loose it acts like a discharge antanae and if solderd to a pin you would easily see it if a wire somes loose out of the solderd strands and you will see it glow as it gives out the coronas, one of these pictures in the trax work on the rear of this simple brilliant easy to biuld circuit and ive coverd it with solder for better conductivity. i use blue tac to help hold some components onto the board while i solderd them in, it gets soft from the heat but is easy to remove when its cooled down, by useing another peace of blue tac to help in the removal of any traces left on the board , the circuit dosent have the 1n5408 protection diode in it as i put it across the output terminals that go to the high voltage capacitor under charge, thats the diode i have across the caps that have a neon with them but that neon is now included in the latest circuit here , well the wires that solder to the pins run to it anyhowView attachment 38547
without this simple circuitry you would have just a plain ignition coil driver with ignition coil and if you try testing it by holding the ignition coil hv output to near the hv return on the coil, to get an arc you will end up damageing the timer , and you will end up haveint to replace it alot , as i did before, i came up with this circuit desgn to alow me to charge up high voltage capacitors useing an ignition coil driver and ignition coil , no big diode chain needed at the voltage and current i use , and no hard to get parts for this one . unlike the other flash circuit on the net that needs a part that even our main electronics places dont have, and the npn power transistor well it lasts longer and holds up better than the static sensitive easy to loose n channel mosfets do , and ignition coils are more comon than disk shaped flybacks are , well here at least anyhowwith the latest high voltage photo flash capacitor charger upgrade, that allso charges , high voltage non photo flash caps , you may need to take note , the latest , printed circuit version circuit that goes around the ignition coil, that enables me to charge up capacitors with. works fine as a prototype and even as a printed circuit version in my other cap charger out of 4 but for some reason in the latest one after i upgraded the ignition coil driver to a printed circuit board version and the other circuit to that enables my to use the ignition coil to charge up high voltage caps with, im suddenly getting more conduction and ignition coil output than i ever had before , even more than the other printed circuit version ignition coil cap charger, so for some reason the 33k resister is burning out so ill replace it with a higher watt type , or i may have to exsperiment with another value resisterhere is the latest details on the repair job, now to start with i removed the burnt out 33k resister and , tried another one but it arced around it so , i tried 2 different valkue resisters and they dident arc but the capacitor wouldent charge then so i solderd a tinned coper wire link , in where i took the 33k resister out from and i sliped some rubber sleaveing over the link , i then solderd another 33 k resister but this tim i solder it directly to the wire from the neg return on the coil and i sliped something over that to and the other end of the resister, i solderd directly to the return input pi and it worked great. it charges up faster and sure makes bigger bangs, so anyone haveing problems im here to help, oh besides coilguns you can use the charged up high voltage photoflash caps for bigger arcs by dumping that charge into an ignition coil or 2 in parrallel, ive did this once before with a charged up 350 volts 47uf cap that was charged up from a modified photo flash unit, and that electro wasent a photo flash electro iether, now i used a pushbutton switch to dump that charge at low value into an ignition coil and out of the hv output was a long bolt and spaced from the other end was another bolt where a wire runs from it back to the coil return , and if i wasent useing the charge in the electro i had a mercury switch for dischargeing it it makes a slight muffeled pop but as you use it more the mercury in its metal liuqiud form turns grey after a while and the balls of metal mercury will separate into tiny balls that wont jion back together like metal mercury normally dose . anyhow with enougth coils in parralell i wont have any problems dumping large volts into it for bigger output arcs , like a rechargeble arc starter , great for fishing and maybe catching worms m like the worm man did on the movie godzilla
heres the latest of the ignition coil version high voltage photo flash , and non photo flash capacitor charger, after allowing my 2 igntion coil version cap chargers , to sit for a while unused i decided to investigate one that had low voltage left in its 12 volts seald lead acid cell battery , so i hooked up the new charger i just got but it dident work the charger just made a funny niose so i tried it on another battery and it was ok so i ended up replaceing the battery , and then fired it up after i took the lid off the circuit box that i made and noticed the 1/2 watt resister was arcing at one end of it and allso the 33k resistor from the end of the board to the coil was burnt up , as it was arcing to ,. so i replaced it with a 33k 1/2 watt type , to then fired it up but was still getting arcs at the 100 ohms 1/2 watts resistor and the 33k was getting hot and i cant get a 5or 10watt 33k as they dont have them in my local electronics catalouge , so i rigged up one of my 200 volts electro 47oouf and switched the circiut on again, thgis did the trick so if anyone biulds this it would be better if you rigg the capacitor to be charged up to the circuit before you switch it on , and be extra carefull as this puts so much charge and current into into the capacitor that when you short out the capacitor it makes bangs twice as loud as you get from shorting out a camera photo flash capacitor , that was cherged useing the camera circuitSimilar threads
