boogyman19946
- May 2, 2011
- 38
- Joined
- May 2, 2011
- Messages
- 38
Hello guys,
I'm new to the forums, and I've happened to come across it in search for a solution to my current problem.
A while ago my dad took his keyboard with him on a camping trip and his genius idea was to use the juice of the car battery to power up his keyboard. So he plugs in his machine into the battery and it looks like the keyboard is working. As soon as he touches the keys, the keyboard says thank you and the only thing remaining is the blue back light from the LCD.
It's a nice keyboard (compared to the one I have now anyway), and I was hoping that perhaps its life hasn't come to an end just yet. So I grab my handy dandy screw driver and rip this baby apart. Inside I find the power supply, various PCBs interfacing the buttons and the LCD, and behind them all the brains of the operation. Aside from the main PCB, the other circuits are all analog and I imagine they are the least likely to be the ones that got fried. The main PCB holds all the ICs and if there is anything that's over sensitive to excessive power I figured it's the chips. The only problem is, I don't really know how to check which chip is fried. I've tried looking up their datasheets but I guess Yamaha uses some kind of off-grid chips. I could figure out some of the functionality of the chips, like for example the chip to which every other chips is connected is most likely the main microcontroller, other chip connecting to the actually keys would be the "decoder"(for a lack of a better word). However, I don't see how the function helps as I still don't know which chip is actually faulty.
My question is, is there any practical (or impractical I guess >.>) way to check which IC actually fried? From what I read chips can actually burn only partially so whereas some functions work, others might not.
Any help would be appreciated
EDIT: Here are the pictures of the PCBs
Main PCB front:
Back side:
PSU:
If you guys need the other side with the connections I'll upload that too. Also, there is a chip screwed to the back of the metal heatsink.
The remaining boards are just wired connections with no components on them.
I'm new to the forums, and I've happened to come across it in search for a solution to my current problem.
A while ago my dad took his keyboard with him on a camping trip and his genius idea was to use the juice of the car battery to power up his keyboard. So he plugs in his machine into the battery and it looks like the keyboard is working. As soon as he touches the keys, the keyboard says thank you and the only thing remaining is the blue back light from the LCD.
It's a nice keyboard (compared to the one I have now anyway), and I was hoping that perhaps its life hasn't come to an end just yet. So I grab my handy dandy screw driver and rip this baby apart. Inside I find the power supply, various PCBs interfacing the buttons and the LCD, and behind them all the brains of the operation. Aside from the main PCB, the other circuits are all analog and I imagine they are the least likely to be the ones that got fried. The main PCB holds all the ICs and if there is anything that's over sensitive to excessive power I figured it's the chips. The only problem is, I don't really know how to check which chip is fried. I've tried looking up their datasheets but I guess Yamaha uses some kind of off-grid chips. I could figure out some of the functionality of the chips, like for example the chip to which every other chips is connected is most likely the main microcontroller, other chip connecting to the actually keys would be the "decoder"(for a lack of a better word). However, I don't see how the function helps as I still don't know which chip is actually faulty.
My question is, is there any practical (or impractical I guess >.>) way to check which IC actually fried? From what I read chips can actually burn only partially so whereas some functions work, others might not.
Any help would be appreciated
EDIT: Here are the pictures of the PCBs
Main PCB front:
Back side:
PSU:
If you guys need the other side with the connections I'll upload that too. Also, there is a chip screwed to the back of the metal heatsink.
The remaining boards are just wired connections with no components on them.
Last edited: