Magnifying light voltages

bushtech

Sep 13, 2016
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Bertus
Thank you so much for your help. I don't know where to go from here. I would still like to know if you can measure the resistance of a resistor while it is in a powered up circuit.I want to check R1 under load
 

Martaine2005

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R1 and R2 on my units are 560K. Green, blue, yellow @5% gold.

If you try to measure across a resistor in a powered circuit, you’ll only get it’s voltage drop I believe.
Also in non powered circuit, you’ll likely lift one leg for a more reliable resistance measurement.

Martin
 

bushtech

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Thanks Martin
Lifted a leg of R1 and measured about 510k. Measured both R1 and R2 in circuit and got about the same. But why do you get a 330 to 23 V change and I get a 315 to 137V change over R1. Trying to find this answer.Hence I want to measure its resistance in powered on circuit
 

bertus

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Hello,

I have updated the schematic:
Bushtech_CFL schematic3.png
Only the value of C4 worries me. Did you get the value correct?

Bertus
 

bushtech

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Hi Bertus
Does look like 220J to me. Martin, please can you have a look at C4 for me
 

bertus

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Hello,

When I look at the Pavouk website, that capacitor has values of 22 nF or 100 nF.

Bertus
 

Martaine2005

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C5 are Q333. 33nF 100V.
I am covered in concrete atm, foundations.
I start late tomorrow so will double check everything. I miss not having a laptop at work but cement doesn’t like electronics.
My phone camera doesn’t work (cement). So I need my camera and laptop to send photos. I can only do screen capture on this phone. Sorry.

Martin
 
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Martaine2005

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The UK hopper is rain water only. But no doubt, that's changed too. Our 800mm trenches (700 by regs) are not deep enough. Then we fill them. One county council didn't know why we dug a hole.
Ps. I am not your traffic excuse.
 

Martaine2005

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A little cleaning and 4 DMMs, I have some different results.
My auto range still insists on low voltage DC so we’ll forget that one.
R1 is 560K.
R2 560K.
C2 to R1 360V.
Directly across R1 with lamp is 210V.
Without lamp connected it’s 23V.

Martin
 

bushtech

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I think there are differences between ours. R1 by me green/brown/yellow not green/blue yellow
Have now pulled C4 to have a good look at it
 

Martaine2005

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BDF5A84E-0788-4A34-BEB3-88326F236A7C.jpeg E83CD2E7-8774-490B-BF3D-11580B2E1F42.jpeg C1CD8042-C535-4BF6-B486-B2E38D10EFCF.jpeg

The soldering is diabolical. I will reflow at the weekend.
Both my units are from different shops but identical.
Any reason you can’t check voltages with lamp connected?.

Martin
 

Martaine2005

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I have a dead tube here. I get the same voltage with it connected rather than 23V without it connected. I tried the dead tube just to see.
So you might get different readings with your tube, dead or not.

Martin
 

bushtech

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I reached a dead end road with not being able to figure why R1 won't give me the required voltage drop. So trying a different tack. Found an old workshop light driven by NiMh batteries ( long dead). I want to transpose those leds to my light.

Photo of old light with new ring for magnifying light

LED top.jpg


Photo of the wiring for resistor on bottom

Led bottom.jpg

This runs off a 7.2V NiMh battery. I get it to light up feeding approx 7V into white wire (KW)positive and blue wire (V-) negative.

Now I need to figure out if this is one long string of +- connected leds or whether there are 3 lines in parallel


Led pcb bottom.jpg

Moderators note : removed double images
 
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Martaine2005

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Why give up with the original board. Did you try with a lamp connected?.

Should be fairly simple to see if they are series and paralleled but on a phone scrolling back and forth is not.
I can see (I think) that you messed up at least twice with anode and cathode by scrolling. Hopefully somebody with a PC can see it properly.

Martin
 

bushtech

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Hi Martin
Yeah, as I recall the voltages went even higher. Please ignore my + and - on the board. Was trying to make sense of what was going on
 
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