"non-captivating" captive nuts

[N_Cook]

Twice in 2 weeks problems due to captive nuts dropping off and landing in
mains/ 450V supply areas of combo units.

These days , when coming across any captive nuts, I tend to wrap some
gaffer/duck/duct tape around and 2 pierce throughs, for the bolt - any other
ideas?

First one due to owner tinkering and not knowing that he'd dislodged an edge
wrap-around type one, when he re-fitted in casing. Just replaced th e bolt
into free air.

This one (apparently) dislodged itself. The type with 2 diametrically
opposite tangs that engage in a square hole in the chassis and a square nut
floating in the captive part.
Can anyone say the following is possible ever witnessed? Unnoticed, bolt
undoes , due to vibration and protrudes outwards. Normal handling of the
case or knocking in transport, the protruding head of bolt is pushed
inwards, releasing the tangs, captive nut then continues undoing, in use,
till free.

 

[N_Cook]

Twice in 2 weeks problems due to captive nuts dropping off and landing in
mains/ 450V supply areas of combo units.

These days , when coming across any captive nuts, I tend to wrap some
gaffer/duck/duct tape around and 2 pierce throughs, for the bolt - any other
ideas?

First one due to owner tinkering and not knowing that he'd dislodged an edge
wrap-around type one, when he re-fitted in casing. Just replaced th e bolt
into free air.

This one (apparently) dislodged itself. The type with 2 diametrically
opposite tangs that engage in a square hole in the chassis and a square nut
floating in the captive part.
Can anyone say the following is possible ever witnessed? Unnoticed, bolt
undoes , due to vibration and protrudes outwards. Normal handling of the
case or knocking in transport, the protruding head of bolt is pushed
inwards, releasing the tangs, captive nut then continues undoing, in use,
till free.

first type , like this
www.springfast.co.uk/prodimages/pt801.jpg

second type , like these
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/3/2422145_c6908c3983.jpg?v=0

 

[Ross Herbert]

:N_Cook wrote:
:> :>> Twice in 2 weeks problems due to captive nuts dropping off and landing in
:>> mains/ 450V supply areas of combo units.
:>>
:>> These days , when coming across any captive nuts, I tend to wrap some
:>> gaffer/duck/duct tape around and 2 pierce throughs, for the bolt - any
:> other
:>> ideas?
:>>
:>> First one due to owner tinkering and not knowing that he'd dislodged an
:> edge
:>> wrap-around type one, when he re-fitted in casing. Just replaced th e bolt
:>> into free air.
:>>
:>> This one (apparently) dislodged itself. The type with 2 diametrically
:>> opposite tangs that engage in a square hole in the chassis and a square
:> nut
:>> floating in the captive part.
:>> Can anyone say the following is possible ever witnessed? Unnoticed, bolt
:>> undoes , due to vibration and protrudes outwards. Normal handling of the
:>> case or knocking in transport, the protruding head of bolt is pushed
:>> inwards, releasing the tangs, captive nut then continues undoing, in use,
:>> till free.
:>>
:>> --
:>> Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
:>> electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
:>> http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
:>>
:>>
:>>
:>
:>
:> first type , like this
:> www.springfast.co.uk/prodimages/pt801.jpg
:
:
:a Spire clip
:
:>
:> second type , like these
:> http://farm1.static.flickr.com/3/2422145_c6908c3983.jpg?v=0
:>
:>
: The second type are caged nuts for using in 19" racks, I`ve seen them
:in some cabineted up gear, but they rarely fall out of their own
:accord, in fact they are buggers to get out without the correct tool (or
:a craftily modded pair of pliers)
:
:Ron(UK)



Type 1 I find are quite prone to "pop out" particularly if screws are removed
frequently.

I have never seen the 19" rack type "pop out" in 20 odd years of using them.
While the correct tool does make it easier to insert and remove them a small
flat blade screwdriver works quite well - although some care is required to
avoid damage to fingers etc. Just insert screwdriver under one tang and lever
upwards and the tang disengages and then the other simply pops out with finger
pressure.