[email protected] (GregS) wrote in
The LED's maximum rating essentially calls for room temperature. Even
with room temperature, the LED die will be much hotter. As the LED
heats up, the light output sags. Normally, the Luxeons are allready
mounted on a piece of aluminum, which looks like a star, or Luxeon
Star. With my mounting arrangement, the Luxeon Emitters are back to
back, thus need faster heat transfer. The actual size of the heat
transfer piece off the LED die is very small, and is electrically
insulated with epoxy, so the heat transfer could be improved.
greg
Good point re output drop with heat. It's not so bad though, linear drop to
90% at 70°C. I guess if you have enough of them densely packed it becomes a
specialised lamp, but I imagine a 486 heatsink with no fan should take care
of up to four XR-E's and still operate well below 70°C. K2's are less
efficient. Were anyway, I think newer ones that match Cree's efficiencies
are being made, according to some posts I read on Photonlexicon.
Even at >120°C the chips put out 70% of 25°C rated output, and I doubt even
ten closely packed emitters will get that hot if convection can keep the
mounts below 85°C. Ten emitters in a lightbulb's space couldn't even get
that hot unless they had less than twice the efficiency of 100W tungsten
lamps, and they're a lot more efficient than that, >80 l/W with a claimed
industry best thermal resistance of 8°/W.
Any tips for mounting?

I'll look deeper at the Cree site for guidance,
but for now I'm contemplating an anodised heatsink (such as used for 486
CPU) and using a thin smear of epoxy to fix three of them in place along
with a small variable-output driver.. That's crude, so I'm keen to hear
some better ideas for improvised assemblies.