Very basic question from a newb

audioguru2

Apr 6, 2004
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Hi Adverse,
Welcome to our forum.
According to the info you provided and Evercool's datasheet http://www.evercool.com/kor/product_list.htm# the fan is designed for 5V. I don't know how much smoke it would make if you applied 12V or more. Usually a 12V AC adapter produces 16V or more when not fully loaded.
Usually, red is positive, black is negative and yellow is ground. Measure ohms with a multimeter to confirm.

 

Adverse

Feb 7, 2005
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Thanks for the quick response!

However, upon closer inspection, the fan i have in my possession says 12v, it is a similar model to the one in the picture though.

Where would attach the ground wire once confirmed?

Also, when i use my mmeter, what will the ohms tell me?

If i get a reading from the red and black, then they're pos and neg?

If i get no reading then i've got one of the ground wires?

 

Adverse

Feb 7, 2005
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Also, should i test the voltage of the adapter when plugged into the wall? From reading a few posts, its apparent that the Voltage is rarely what is written on the adapter. I don't want to burn the fan out.

Would it be possible to add a variable resistor to control the rpm of the fan? The model number of the fan turns out to be EC5010, i checked that datasheet link out but nothing happened.

If i can add a var resistor, should it be within any specifications? For ex: Voltage, amperes, etc?

 

audioguru2

Apr 6, 2004
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Hi Adverse,
What are you going to use the fan for? If it is not near a radio, TV or not inside a computer, its ground wire doesn't have to be connected.

It is good that its voltage requirement is marked. Just connect it to 12V, with the red wire as positive and the black to negative. If it runs backwards, reverse the wires.

It will probably draw 100mA at 12V, although its manufacturer doesn't say, that's what other manufacturers say for their similar size fans. It would be good to power it from a regulated adapter whose voltage doesn't change. If you use a cheap adapter, its voltage changes with loading. Use a 10V DC cheap adapter rated at 400mA or 500mA. With the 100mA fan its voltage will be about 12V.

To control the speed a variable resistor will be large, expensive, get hot and probably burn out soon. You probably don't need such fine control of the speed, just low, medium and maximum is probably OK. Then you just need a 4-position switch and 2 resistors. The switch would connect one 100 ohm/1W resistor in series with the fan for medium speed and two resistors for low speed. No connection is OFF and direct connection is max.
If a 4-position switch is too expensive, use two cheap on-off switches and one resistor. One switch is for on and off and the other switch controls low or max speed.

 

Adverse

Feb 7, 2005
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I'm going to be using the fans to ventilate a small greenhouse. There will be a fair amount of water near the work area due to the high humidity in the greenhouse, so i'm guessing i should ground the suckers, right?

The adapter i am using is a Nokia cell phone adapter for charging the battery. Here is what it says on the wart:

ACP-12U

Input: AC 100-240V/ 50-60Hz/180 mA

Output: DC 5.7V/800mA, For ITE use only.

The fans i plan to use are 2 EC5010 12V DC/0.09A/1.2W

When i used my meter on the adapter it read 23.7V. I'm guessing that this has to do with a regulator in the cell phone, bringing it down to 5.7V?

I tried to wire these 2 fans in series, hoping that the combined voltage of 24V would work with this adapter (i have no idea if this is the way it really works, please correct my logic), but only one of the fans would run.

I tried them paralell next and both fans ran fine. WHen i checked the voltage using my meter this time it read 23.7V.

I am now wondering: Is this going to start a fire? Will this burn out the fans or the adapter? Is it a hazard of any other type?

Also, how much does a 4 way swich cost usually?


Thanks again for all the help!!!

 

audioguru2

Apr 6, 2004
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Hi Adverse,
I wouldn't use that adapter. It is not just an ordinary one:
1) Its input voltage range is very wide, from only 100V to 240V. An ordinary adapter is rated at only one input voltage.
2) Its output is rated at 4.56W. But its input is rated at 18W to 43.2W. 38.64W makes a lot of heat for it to get rid of at full load.
3) Its voltage you measured is much too high and I don't know why both fans didn't run in series. In parallel getting nearly double their rated voltage they might overheat or wear out soon.
4) Maybe ITE means intermittant use only.

Buy a 10V DC cheap adapter rated at 500mA. With the 180mA load its voltage will be about 12V. I don't know how many Ruples it would cost (you are in NNE?) but it will cost me 5 bucks.

A Chinese 4 position switch costs me about 3 bucks.

 

Adverse

Feb 7, 2005
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I'm in Atlantic Canada, so maybe i'll pick up a switch somewhere.

So you say an ideal adapter would be a 10V 0.05A? Wouls this be available at Radio Shack? I'd prefer to buy independant, but maybe RS will have to do.

What do you think about the ground situation?

 

audioguru2

Apr 6, 2004
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Hi Adverse,
I'm a Canuck too, eh! Sorry, I think of NNE as being in the Ukraine.

Don't get a 0.05A transformer, 500mA is what is needed and it's 0.5A. Radio Shack doesn't have a 10V but has a 12V DC/500mA regulated adapter that gives exactly 12V with both your fans connected to it in parallel. It is 20 bucks!
I buy stuff locally at a store with many Canadian branches www.active123.com but they are not in your neck of the woods.

The transformer and fan provide isolation, so grounding (to what?) the fan won't make any difference.

 

Adverse

Feb 7, 2005
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Hey again,

I found something i think will work for these fans.

I have a Troller Transistorized "Autopulse Transpak 2.5". It is a transformer for a model train set.

It has an output on the back that says "Variable DC 0-12V Track 1". However, when i use my meter to test the actual voltage, it reads as high as ~55V. It uses a knob to change the Voltage. I can set it at 12V exactly, but the fan seems a bit weak at this voltage.

WHy does it say 0-12 when it can go way higher? THe fan is 0.09A, but the transformer doesn't say anything about current... I don't want to burn the fan out or start a fire... How high can i set the voltage without increasing risk of fire or significantly reducing the life of the fan?

Why does the fan seem so weak? At 12V it actually needs a push start to start spinning.

Thanks again

 
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audioguru2

Apr 6, 2004
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Hi Adverse,
A model train transformer usually doesn't have a filter capacitor that ordinary adapters have.
Everything that you measure with your meter measures too high. Maybe your meter is broken and you cannot depend on it.
Since you can't measure its output voltage properly, don't use the adjustable train transformer.

 

Adverse

Feb 7, 2005
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How would i test my meter?? Should i just try to measure the voltage coming from my wall outlet?

 

audioguru2

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A brand new 9V alkaline battery should measure 9.6V and the meter will be on the same range as 12V for the fans.

 

Adverse

Feb 7, 2005
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If i could obtain a reliable meter or it turns out that mine is OK, could i use the train transformer?

 

audioguru2

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I wouldn't use it.
Its description mentions pulses, probably to vibrate the train's motor to start it turning at slow speed. It probably doesn't have a filter after rectification so its DC is also AC. Its rheostat for speed control might get bumped and make the fans burn-out, or the rheostat itself might burn because those thingies aren't designed for continuous use.

 

trigger

Aug 7, 2004
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I think your meter got some problem....

My 12V DC fan (used inside a PC) will run pretty fast and dangerous (I cut my finger once with it......... :p ) with its input voltage at around 12V.

 

audioguru2

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Hey, aren't we talking about cheap Chinese fans with only sleeve bearings (no ball-bearings)?
How long do they last with continuous running at full speed? 1 week, 1 month?

 

Codyhtml

Oct 29, 2004
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hey if if you have an old computer power supply it might save you a lot of hassel if it is an atx look on the internet to figure out how to start it if it is really old then you might not have to any way you could just plug them in but if you have already cut of the adaper or it is a mother board conecter then you still have a great trans former lots of out put and a 5v and a 12v output :)

 
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