Wiring up a Y90L-2 motor

Bluejets

Oct 5, 2014
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Oct 5, 2014
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7,374
No need to go to the expense of c or d curve( they will be enormously expensive anyhow)....circuit wiring will undoubtly handle 25a a curve.( 2.5sq mm?)...some countries require elcb these days as well.
 

poormystic

Jul 23, 2023
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Jul 23, 2023
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Hi :)
Driving these motors takes heavy currents. And, non-amateur voltages.
The capacitors were usually controlled by electromagnetic relays when I did a little bit of this work. I hear that solid state devices can now be used ( but my instincts still say "No" to solid state state solutions where an electromagnetic relay will do).

For explanatory purposes only:
At turn-on, the start capacitor is connected across the appropriate winding, and once the motor gets up to speed the relay operates and takes the "start" capacitor out of the circuit, and switches the "run" capacitor in.

No unqualified, unsupervised person should attempt this work. So many errors are possible - there are just too many ways to die.

<3
 
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Liew

Aug 22, 2025
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Aug 22, 2025
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The inspectors on those sites get REAL nasty if it's not test tagged.
 

ahsrabrifat

Jan 18, 2025
76
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Jan 18, 2025
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So I bought a new , unused electric motor off a mate cheaply but it didn’t come with a power cord wired in.

It is a 3HP , 13.7 amp , 2800RPM single phase 240 volt YL90-2 . The box it came in says it is a “Powerstar” brand but says YL-S02. It does have YL90-2 stamped on the nameplate of the motor though so presume they labelled the box wrongly. There is no wiring diagram on the underside of the terminal box cover. What is the correct way to wire this ? My daughter is a third year apprentice electrician but has no experience with electrical motors. She does however have a Fluke multimeter that we can use to test the wires inside the box should that be necessary.

From the photos, obviously the blue cap (250 microfarads) is the start and the black (50 microfarads) is the run. There is also a thermal overload switch in there to complicate matters.

I have a 15amp circuit to run this on and the motor will be used on a bricksaw.
Yes, I am just a humble carpenter so keep it as simple as possible.
Many thanks to anyone who can point me in the right direction here.
Connect Line (Live) to the U1/main-winding terminal, Neutral to the U2, and Earth to the motor frame if only two terminals are present. If four wires, use the multimeter to identify which pair is the run winding (low resistance) and which is the start winding (higher resistance); put the 50 µF run capacitor always across run + start, the 250 µF start capacitor in series just for startup.


Make sure the thermal overload is in series with the live feed, and don’t skip the earth. Use a proper 15 A motor breaker because of strong startup current.


Here’s a project that shows how to build or test motor control circuits (not exactly your motor, but useful for understanding winding, switching, and capacitor wiring): https://www.pcbway.com/project/shar...ding_and_Using_the_L9110_Module_679076e3.html
 
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