faizanbrohi

Forget about making an another amplifier . i will make this again , i will buy new components. ok and will make new PCB and please tell me the site where i can get info on getting the Inductor Value of 0.5mm wound around a resistor of 1W with 10 turns . is there a calculation , please i need to know the value in order to get the inductor right. now please help me on the inductor plzz ... i will do all the PCB Again. plz help on the inductor , i want it's value. and if possible a very equivalent substitute for BD829 BD830 and BDW84D and BDW83D

AudioGuru can you give me any working 50W-60W amplifier schmatic and PCB Layout with 4ohm @60W speaker output with volume or base adjustment . plzz i need it soon ... The one's you have made and are working great .. plz .. i have to submit a project in about 2 days please help..... :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

The thing is why is it drawing so much current , Q7 is working fine , Q6 is working fine , everthing seems to be fine , what is the problem .... Can you brief me about the theory behind the operation of this amplifier . plzz ...thnx ... :'( :'(

Hello .. I am really worried , i am going to buy tommorow , the orignal transistors . but please reply soon audioguru that is the high current of R2 And R16 because of the Transistors . and if i replace them will it work . Plzzzz .. help .. and lastly will it give any signal if R2 And R16 are hot . thnxx plzz .... ??? :'( :'( :'( :'(

Actually i am getting BD829 and BD830 but they are second hand , and i am only getting BDW84A , not BDW84D . and by the way i live in pakistan.

Today i am going to the electronics market . I think iwiil buy two pots . and by the way q6 is short so that might be the problem . what do you think , i will change the pot today and will change q7 and q6 ok , but i forgot to tell you that i am using BD825 and BD 140 in place of BD829 and BD830 and BDW84A and BDW84A instead of BDW84D and BDW84D , because i could not find the original. ok

I just want to confirm that when i apply the 1 ohm in parallel with 0.47ohm . it will not heat up and i can set the pot . because i have tried a DC millimeter but it didn't give any reading and it's fuse was broken . this can mean there is alot of current flowing through 40V lead

The 1K pot is causing some problems no matter how much i adjust it , there is no effect on the bulb. but when i checked the pot with its common at one end and the other two pins one by one , so i found that all of them are short. this means the pot is gone. ??? ???

Hello again , When i add a bulb in series with both the +40 And -40 of 100W/220V , the bulb heats up and there is no voltage drop across the amplifier and only the bulbs , i did also one careless mistake that i put a AC ammeter in series which burned one capicator at the input . But what does the bulb shows that something is short in the circuit . i think the two resistors have more current flowing , so they may be virtually short , i am going today to buy the stuff , 1 ohm 2W x 2 1K pot x 2 10uF / 63V x 2 2A x 4 Fuses 3A x4 Fuses BC548 x 2 BC546 x 2 and by the way i connected the neutral wire , it's working now with the neutral wire plugged , and the problem was that the heatsink was shorted with the transistor's body

Thanks for the information , Actually how do i in actual connect the power supply in series with the millimeter. can you show me diagrammatically .. plz :D . and secondly did you make the 100W Audio Amplifier by Smart Kit Yourself .. thnx...

I have disconnected the 0V neutral lead , nothin heats up except the goddamn 0.47 ohm (5W) R2 And R16 Resistors but the amplifier loads up perfectly , not even the transistors heat up . maybe i shoould place 1K resistor of 1 Watt in parallel with them ??? as written on the manual. But is this heating up of the 0.47ohm (5W) resistors normal when everything is fine. ??? ??? I made a discovery that the transistors body where the screw is mounted and touches the heat sink was shorted, so the transistors collector was actually shorted with the heat sink . i corrected that problem by applying a plastic washer in between them . Could this be the reason that the neutral wire actually burned up ???? ??? ???. now i am putting the goddamn 1 k 2W resistors in parallel with the R2 And R 16 .. ok

The Power Supplies neutral rail is getting burned out , not the amplifier's neutral connection. i think that there is something wrong at the amplifier end , but the thing is i have double checked every short connection , only one transtor Q6 seems to be short , but otherwise i have checked the DC Input stage . everything seems to be fine... what could be the problem ... ??? ??? :'( :'(

Hello , my name is faizan brohi , There is a 100W Audio AMplifier Project in the Audio Section of the projects By SmartKit. The PRoblem That i am facing is that the power supplies neutral wire goes red and then breaks in the PCB Board. Ofcourse this means that the amplifier circuit is short , but i have checked everything and nothing seeems to be short. please can you help me with this , any help on this would be greatful . i have worked on this for 7 days and still no results ..plzzzz...help....... :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(