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CooperMan

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Posts posted by CooperMan

  1. can you please give him my regards and let him know I have sent him the CDs I said I would for helping me out with my washing machine pump problems. (60Hz power with 50Hz pumps  ???)

    I sent him: Ghost, Windows 2K Professional, Office XP, and Photoshop V7.01.

    CooperMan

  2. Following on:

    "Any electronic device operating at a potential above 10,000 volts should be considered as a possible source of x-radiation even though it was not designed for that purpose. Devices are not considered hazardous when operated at voltages below 10,000 volts because the inherent shielding, such as is provided by the device walls, is generally sufficient for adequate attenuation of the x-rays. Even at somewhat higher voltages, this inherent shielding may be sufficient to reduce the radiation to an acceptable level."

    Go see: http://www.abwem.wpafb.af.mil/radiation/index.cfm?id=66&objid=126&cat=Radiation%20Safety

  3. Hi,SM2GXN,

    I'm getting quite concerned about him as he said he was ill when we got talking one time. His real name is Stig Andersson but I think the Stig part is short for something or other.

    I have his address if you want it, let me know and I'll send it via your email address. I would look him up myself but I live in the Philippines.

    Regards,

    Bob...

  4. Hi MP,

    This is just what I was looking for, thanks a million.

    Just one (or two) question for now as I set about making it:

    Q: Do you think that they have got the resistors, R1 through R5 in the wrong order? It looks like R5 should take the place of R2 and R2 through R4 should all move down one.

    Q: What values would you recommend, for the sensor resistors, if use 10 sensors instead of the five as in this schematic as my tank is 5 metres deep?

    Best regards and thanks again,

    Bob… 

  5. Hi folks, I have been hunting around and have found the LM3915 dot/bar display driver chip. It looks like it should be ideal for my water level detector. I have a plastic ¾ inch water pipe that I can cut into sections and intersperse stainless steel sections with a stainless steel sealed of end being the bottom of the tank water level sensor.

    I see that I would need some type of resistive sensor set up between the SS sections; any ideas what this restive network might look like so I could feed the LM3915 chip to indicate the water levels.

    I really would sooner not re-invent the wheel if one of you good folks has already worked on something like this. I envisage some sort of resistive chain connected to the SS sections of the pipe, but can

  6. Hi Ante,

    Yes it is a nice place to live apart from all the pore people here; the govenment are ****, well lets not go into that here.

    This is a big island off an even bigger island called Bohol and it's part of the Philippines. Map attached...

    What a good Idea; I'll look into it to see what I can find but thanks for the suggestion. Any Idea about an op-amp circuit if the ultrasonic ruler idea doesn't pan out?

    Regards,

    CooperMan

    Bob...

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  7. Hi folks,

    Thanks for your ideas but I think I will be going with a closed bottom end 5m plastic rod with interleaved stainless steel sections, spaced about 25cm or so apart, as the water level sensors.

    The bottom of the rod will also have a stainless steel (SS) section, the closed end cap, to use as the reference for all the other sensor sections of the pipe.

    I would then connect a wire to each of the SS sections and use them as sensors conducting through the water to the bottom SS closed end of the pipe. These wires would be my input to the LED indicator box.

    All I will need to do then is to workout an op-amp based circuit, and this is were I need more help, to switch on LEDs as the water level changes moving past the SS sensors.

    I could also use the output of the LED section to alarm when the tank it getting too full or too empty. The latter being the most important as the water pump can, if there is no water in the system, tend to runaway with itself and burn out.

    So what I need is for some really bright person out there to work out the op-amp circuit and I

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