gearhead98

is this going to affect the circuit in any way or can i go ahead a start making a board from this schematic?

good question. as far as i can tell from what i am finding the power connections is made at J11 and J12. will everything work with power at those two points??

i think the picture just got resized over here and is not resized over on imageshak. It is actually sposed to be 4v but eagle didn't have one that i would be able to take over to the board stage so i used 5v instead

ok i finally got the picture uploaded so you guys can see it. the current pic is 100dpi i have one at 200 dpi if needed just click on the image to see it full size

forgot to add that i tried to use the exact parts from eagle but they did not have them all so i used a part that would work on the pcb when i make it, so somethings maybe different, hopefully the part i picked will be the same size as the one i am going to use. if any parts don't match to the part listed let me know. and if i post a bmp what dpi should i use??

ok i believe i have everything put into eagle. i need someone to check it for me. should i post a bmp of the schematic or the save files( don't know if they will work)

in my further reading, i have found out that the newer sensor the LSU needs to be controlled with a PID. can anyone shed some light on how these work, what this will accomplish

well in that case I will have to draw up the schematics in eagle to convert them over to boards that i can print out. anyone know if it would be better to do 2 seperate boards for the heater and the controller or just one board for all of it?

i plan on adding some sort of knock sensor.

already looked into it. The ECU my car has uses the OKI 66507 MCU which is an one time programming. I could get my own chip to replace the current one but a blank chip is around 200. Also i will be adding in pure oxygen, atleast with the hydrogen injection system. How much pure o2 will be added idk, but i do know that there will be some in there. As for why car companies don't make lean burning cars. some do like honda with the Civic HX which has VTEC-E and the insight also has it. As for the rest of the car companies idk.

depends on how lean you run the engine. i have a honda civic, so the engine is pretty durable. Also i don't plan on running it extremly lean. Just a little lean, like around 15.6:1 instead of 14.7:1. i also plan on using a wideband o2 to do the tuning so it will be more accurate than the cars stock narrowband.

forgot to add i will only be using this on the highway until i get the electrolysis system up and running correctly. I drive about 43 miles on way to school, round trip of about 86 miles every day. I figure at highway speeds i will have enough airflow to counter any increase in temps. And since i am just cruising power is not really gonna matter. For city driving or anything not on a highway i will cut off the system.

i know that running leaner will make less power, but not much less then running stoich of 14.7:1 Yes and no on running hotter.

i am trying to make this wideband o2 sensor controller.

not being an electronics wiz like many on here i need someone to verify that this schematic i found will work for what it says it will and wont fry my car ecu in the process. here is the schematic got it from this website http://better-mileage.com/memberadx.html website says it will help me to lean out my air fuel mixture by limiting the voltage to between about 500 mV and 0 volts instead of between 1 volt and 0 volts. can someone review it for me and make sure everything looks good before i go through the trouble of trying to make a PCB for it and assembling it just to find out it doesn't work. Thanx in advance

if you are using the sensor that is already on the car it will most likely be a narrow band sensor. They are accurate enough for the car's computer but not that accurate. A better option would be a wideband sensor. These sensors can read a bigger range of air/fuel ratios. Your car should still start if the O2 sensor's heater wires are messed up as the sensor will heat up with the car exhaust. No the car's computer does not know the difference between a real O2 or a resistor in most cases. Some cars this does not apply to. If you want a more accurate Air/Fuel readout you should go with a wideband O2. These sensors have 5 wires most times. I am currently trying to figure out how to make my own wideband O2 readout similar to what you did. The only problem right now is cost. The schematic i found uses a sensor that is about $200. I have found units that you can buy that use a less expensive sensor but the unit retails for about $200. So not much trade off. I will try and post some schematic of the wideband O2 tonight. If you want you can try and find them on the net. search for DIY WBO2. there will be a website WWW DIY-WB COM. this is the site i got the schematic from, unfortunetly it is no longer up. so you have to go to the internet archive page, www.archive.org and enter the website above and you can view the stuff on it. THere is also an australian site that sells wideband o2 kits. there website is wbo2.com. They have some schematics on there, but i can't really understand them (too much of a newb right now) maybe some of you guys can make sense of them and explain them to me. I might have gotton to car technical if i did let me know i can explain further. Hopefully with more time and help from everyone here, we can get a schematic for a wideband O2 that uses the less expensive sensor.

didn't know that. ??? now i know. as for the question about whether this is a wideband O2 or a narrowband O2, im guessin it is a narrowband as there is no controller for the O2 sensor.

anyone??

I have been following this post for a little while. Good to hear you got everything working. I have a few questions about this setup. What o2 sensor are you using? Is it a wideband or narrowband?? in the last pdf you attached on pages 4 and 8 are those schematics printable for transfer?? what size are the boards you are using??