Staigen

Hehe Yepp, and a bigger one for the anodes and screens, 108 Volts with taps at 90 and 99 Volts, if i remember right! You used the 90 tap when the battery was new and the others when the battery started to get exhausted! In 1957 transistor radios was very expensive here in Sweden! I dont remember prices. Tapped battery? Was it running on several voltages? Did you run a 9Volt radio on 18 Volts? Without smoking the output stage? Hehe ;D! No wonder it was loud ;D ;D! How old are you? I was born in the beginning of 1946, so i'm 60 soon! //Staigen

Oh no, now i'm back again The battery was used for filament of tubes like 1H5, 1N5, 1C5 etc etc! :) Nice time :)! //Staigen

Hi again Thats the battery! ;D //Staigen

Hi Audioguru No, i haven't the slightest idea what a #6 dry cell is, but, is it about 2 inches in diameter and about 4 or 5 inches high? If so, then they are called tube glow battery here in sweden. They were aso used for glow plugs in those small engines. I did not had such a plane, i went for electonics instead. //Staigen

Hi I also remember those airplanes we built, in the 50:ies ;D! But ours were somewhat bigger, they flew about 50 to 100 meters, than you have to rev up their rubber engine again ;D ;D! But it was fun ;D! Of course you should make your plane radiocontroled! //Staigen

Hi Ante My thought too, and other buddys with only a modem connection, reading this thread! :) //Staigen

Hi there again Um...Me123 But i have ;D! I am just curious, what did you order? //Staigen

Hi again Um...Me123, i have been a little bit busy Of course you should have the LCD DVM if you really want it, i was only pointing you at some of its drawbacks, and it will of course not jump around that much, only when you are just barely over an even voltage when you have a load that fluktuate much! And also the fact that it needs a separate power source. I'm not sure that you should include this in the PSU:s box, instead you can build a "power box" with switches for the outputs. A solder gun is not the best tool for soldering electronics, a solder iron is better and best is a temp controlled solderstation. Never ever connect anything belonging to the secondary side on a mains switch, it's not safe! Exeption: there is mains switches that are made for this, with increased insulation between the mains switch section and the switch for the secondary side. No, they are for current measuring No, you dont always need a cap for a 555, but if you gonna use it as a timer you have to. Read the application notes for the 555 Sure, one pack of electrolytics and one pack of plastic foil caps and one pack of ceramic capacitors, and of course, a pack of resistors, they are always usable when you experiment, go right to the store :)

Put the files in a temporarily map(directory), start up RAR(maybee you need version 3.50 or higer) and extract the file, RAR maybee ask you for the path to the next 2 files, just type it in. Hopefully this will work! ;D //Staigen

And the 3:rd part: //Staigen Hydrofoamwmv.part3.rar

And the second: //Staigen [attachment deleted by admin]

Hi again Phu, this was timeconsuming, i had to download RAR first, and then i was not familiar with the new interface, but here they are :) The file comes in 3 parts, the first part is here, and you must have all 3 parts before you try to extact! The first part: //Staigen [attachment deleted by admin]

Hehe, me to ;D Try to RAR the file in 3 parts! //Staigen

Hi Alun What? Wich one of the two files? //Staigen

Hi Well, i have the file in two versions, hydrofoam.wm

Hi all of you I got the file, anyone of you who wants it? //Staigen

Hi Hehe :) :D ;D! Something for you, maybee? ;D ;D ;D ;D //Staigen

Hi It in the "Electronic Gadgets" here is the link to the video: http://media.hugi.is/hahradi/fyndnar/skycutter40.wmv //Staigen

Hi I have also been thinking about thatm but instead using the tranny he is going to order, its a 25 V CT, and setting up the reg so it vill output from 1.25 to somewhere around 10-12 Volt in the lower range and 10-12 to 24 Volt in the higher range, but i didn't wanted to complicate things for him. //Staigen

Hi all Talking about videos, and specially the video Audioguru showed us, did you saw the lawnmover that Ante have, it was in an another thread somewhere? ;D //Staigen

Hi again Audioguru I dont think 1N400X diodes are either fast or have a quick recovery rating, but they are good at causing mains buzz and hum and all sort of noice ;D ;D //Staigen

Hi there Audioguru In an earlier reply you also say that the caps across the rectifier diodes is removed in newer equipment. They are suddenly not, only in cheap suplies! An examle, i bought a pair of speakers to my computer, cheap ones, 160(2*80) whats, they where powered by a 6 VA, 12 Volt wallvart(hehe), and have problem with hum when the volume was turned up, not much, but it was there. I then replaced the wallvart with an another one, 12 VA, 12 Volt, and the problem was gone. I then pryed the old wallvart apart, and found that the caps was not there, it was place for them, and the mounting holes was there, so i mounted 4 caps and the wallvart worked as it should, the hum was gone. Now i use the 12 VA one, i belive the other was a little bit to small for the 4 ohms speakers. Hehe, a 6 VA wallvart for a 160 Watts Amp! Ridiculous! The speakers inside is 5 Watts ones, and i belive that the amp put out less than that, with a decent sound! //Staigen

Hi there Audioguru, placing the ammeter between the rectifier and the smothing cap just dont feels right, the resitstance of the ammeter reduce the charging current a lot, its only short pulses with a lot of current, compared to the total current going to the regulators. The ammeter should be placed between the 2200 cap and the caps connected to the inputs of the regulators. And use an ammeter with a low voltage dropout, 50 or 100 mV! //Staigen

I did :) //Staigen

Hi Um...Me123 Well, I'm 60 years old in a couple of months, and have been playing with electronics in about 53 years ;D Even the leftmost digit will flicker when output is set at just above 10 Volts! Also, this module dont show moore than 19.99 or 19.999 Volts, above that it will show - - - or - - - -