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Dazza

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Posts posted by Dazza

  1. No more whingeing from me :-\,

    after my last post I was unable to get any further than the homepage, all I got was (page not found).

    I hope mixos fixes the problems soon, before ante becomes an alcoholic :P.


    [move] ;D ;DAnother page too load, and another beer to drink ;D ;D[/move]


    Is This A Bad Thing 8)

  2. Steven, I decided its time to sort out the mess I have made of my hard drive, and try to create some order from chaos, man it is a mess no wonder I can't find anything :o.

    Anyway I came across this :) http://www.fortunecity.com/greenfield/bp/16/hydrogen.htm (its worth a look) if you haven't already came across this site ;).

  3. Hi CRE,

    I am also wanting the same thing :D, something not too complicated and most importantly, I can be confident it won't damage my computer. I amended the link I posted so now you can just click on it, but it's still not working :( hopefully it comes good because it's worth checking out. I would have seriously considered putting it together, if it wasn't so expensive to make >:(. The most appealing part to me, was that it had the PCB pattern and components overlay, as well as very good detailed information for construction.

  4. Hi,

    I made an FM stereo transmitter using the BA1404 and it works ok, but the sound quality is poor and my stereo has a hard time picking up the signal and its only about three metres away, if the single isn't strong enough or if there is any slight drift it will drop out, the stereo transmitter uses crystal lock, so my stereo must be very fussy on the stability of the signal it receives. I have no trouble picking up the signal with my clock radio which is quite a distance away, as well as my car stereo but the signal is week.

    These FM transmitters can be very touchy, I think using a transmitter with crystal lock in my experience is the way to go.   

  5. If you are referring to the schematics I posted, sorry I'm not sure, I think it's 20 seconds. It may also be obsolete, but there are many others that you can use for different record Times. I have come across one that will record up to 60 seconds, rather expensive though. I haven't yet put one of these devices together, I haven't really looked into it.

  6. Hi ante,

    Yes of course, I should have realised the motor choice would need to be known first ::).

    I'm looking at two possibilities, a washing machine motor or a small benchtop drill press, a drill press would probably prove to be the most cost-effective, around $100 because it already has the mechanical speed adjustment as well as other useful bits.

    Ok probably the only thing I really need to know at this stage, would be the motor type what would be the most suitable for this application, I understand that I will need some kind of feedback from the motor to the speed control, I won't need this degree of accuracy for now (the feedback) I just need the bare bone unit, for machining parts needed for my reactor.

    Thanks ante :).

  7. I think it is very important that the etching solution is applied to the PCB evenly, and the pressure is applied evenly to the entire PCB to be etched, to ensure the etching process takes place evenly over the entire board.

    You don't want to end up with a small area on the PCB that takes twice as long to be etched, this will run the risk of wearing off the etch resistant material.

  8. mixos, I just realised something ;D, I think this is a really good, (inventive/new idea) a true (bright idea).

    I think this would be a very useful/popular project to build, so I think it would be good to keep in mind, the (mechanical construction/hardware) and try to use commonly available materials, and try to keep the construction method as simple as possible.

    Oops, did I just suggest that mixos, may have posted in the wrong place, that was a bit cheeky of me wasn't it. :o :o :o

    [move];D ;D ;D ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) 8) 8) 8) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D[/move]

  9. That's a great idea mixos, and I already have 95% of the equipment and materials to put it together.
    You could use a low pressure spray gun, that works on a venturey system, I have several of these spray guns, two of which can be easily modified to be noncorrosive.

    Hang on a minute, I have a better idea, I bought a windscreen washer universal replacement kit, that thing that squirts the water onto your windscreen, a couple of years ago, it consisted of a 12v electric pump motor, a couple of lengths of clear plastic hose and two small plastic spray nozzles, the spray nozzles I still have some where. I think this would do the job nicely, the only thing corrosive is the motor shaft connected to the impeller of the pump. All you need to do is use a seal container, like ante suggested maybe made of glass, and mount the nozzles inside in a way so that they would automatically travel from side to side. Connect a hose at the bottom to the pump and then to the spray nozzles. So then it would recycle the solution. The only real difficult part would be a mechanism to move the nozzles.

    These 12V pumps need to be mounted below the water level, because they are gravity fed.

  10. Thank you mixos,billy, I'm not over the hill, but I am not a spring chicken either ;D but man I've got a terrible memory, this will make finding that resistor much easier :D.

    So I will become an Electronics God when I reach 500 posts. Man that was easy to learn electronics 8) ;D, maybe it should say something different for me, for someone that asks for a lot of questions and for help, and still knows very little ;D ;D ;D.



  11. About the circuit posted: Where does the switch go?


    U1 is the hall affects sensor, which is placed beneath the button. Then you place a magnet within the underside of the button, the voltage rise and fall from pin 1 of U2, will correspond to the magnet travel towards an away from the hall affects sensor.

    I hope this has been helpful :).
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