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Dazza
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Posts posted by Dazza
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Suraj, you idea solved a problem, I had with another project thanks ;).
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Matthew A. Concentrate your efforts on obtaining the electrical schematics for your outboard(and post them). This will be half your battle over. I'm sure someone will then be able to find a solution, contact your outboard manufacturer, someone anyone and get them from somewhere :).
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Hi Steven,
a miracle just happened, Dick Smith has released their new catalogue :o, I got a copy with silicon chip magazine. Their electronic component selection is a sad sight, I don't know if it is a mistake but there is no listing for voltage regulators. I hope Jaycar comes to town soon. -
Well if I can't find a datasheet for them, I shall have to exchange them for a couple of resistors. These things cost me eleven cents each, and I bought 2 off them :o, that was all my pocket money. :o :o ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Hi,
I agree with MP.
We need to know what you are trying to accomplish ???. -
Hi Matthew,
I'm sure you realise that you need to apply caution, when modifying your electrical system ;). You need to be certain that you have found the problem, before you try to modify/improved your electrical system. You want to be sure you are not actually applying a Band-Aid fix. You may have more than one component failing, which makes it a real pain in the B_M,
Do you have an auxilary engine, you don't want to find yourself drifting in the wild blue yonder,
well that's probably not so bad if you find yourself on the shores of down under, I could probably help you sort the problem out, but I think you may be a little hungry and thirsty buy then ;D ;D ;D. -
I discovered why I ran into problems trying to work out what A and V I could achieve, there was a short between the two wires that were insulated together. Once I separated them no sparks, when trying to configure them ;D. Pretty thick of me, I should have realised ::).
Thank you everyone for your help :), -
Hi MP,
I am very relieved MP :), thank you for your reply. -
Hi ante, the scavenging and salvaging the components is the easy part compared to, searching the Internet to find information for the components, man what a job :P ;D.
I see ante, they are very useful indeed 8).
Thank you. -
Steven, the block diagram for my design is on page 5 of Schematics Variable current 12v 60A to 0A :).
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Here is the second page to that design.
And this link contains the rest of the information for it ;).
(<http://www.hasslberger.com/tecno/hydrogen.html>)
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Hi ante, ok great extremely useful, what I would like to try to do, is be able to switch between 10.5V @ 19A and 21V @ 9.5A, it's fairly straightforward to achieve this, I just have to make sure that whatever I use for the switching can handle the high current.
I just need some help to modify the circuit to be able to very the voltage and handle the high current. For starters D1 will have to be upgraded that one is easy. I don't know how many power transistors I'll need?? and can I simply parallel them. R5 will have to be fairly hefty what should I use here?. Also I'll have to beef up the PCB tracks.
This project will be a real asset for my hydrogen experiments :D,
Thank you for your help,Steven,Ante :). -
Thanks, yes that's what they are :D. They will be very useful. Any idea on the power they can handle,and the type of applications they are used for, basically why would you use one of these instead of a relay?.
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No ante, the second diode doesn't have a symbol like the first one. I was hoping that they were more than 10A but still very useful. The problem now is finding out their voltage rating. Any guesses of what the minimum voltage rating might be ???.
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OK great, I know how I can make this now, and safely 8). Good safety point audioguru :).
Thank you. -
Hi steven, I'm sure you realise that their is a couple of critical design flaws in this design ;), as well as most of the most important parts are missing. Apart from this, it gives a good overall idea on how it could be done 8).
Do You have the second page to this design, I will post it if you don't have it :). -
steven, everything is written on the transformer 8);D. what I am unsure of is, how to configure the four wires on the secondaries, what V and A can I achieve 10.5V and 19A?? or 21V and 9.5A or 19A??.
[move] ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D[/move] -
steven, it has three legs on each end, and its like an inductor. It looks as though there's a medal rod passing through the centre that is connected to the centre leg at each end. The two outer legs at each end are connected to the inductor coils.
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Hi Kain, are you trying to make me blow up my batteries :o, just kidding I don't have any yet ;D ;D ;D. Lucky ;D.
Hi audioguru, from what you have explained, it won't be easy to allow for different battery types to be charged.
Maybe I should just try for battery types that I will mostly use :). -
Hi steven,
how can you be sure that they are 10 amp diodes?. I can be fairly certain that these are not zener diodes, from the diode symbol printed on them :). -
Hi steven, I have no worries working out the primary and secondaries its written on it ;D. What I'm not sure about is the secondaries, there is 2 x 10.5V 9.5A what voltage and ampere output can I achieve and how?
The transformer was used for electrolysis ;), for producing chlorine for a saltwater swimming pool. My neighbour gave me the device, and he said that the transformer had failed but it was one of the power transistors, I offered to fix it for him but he wanted to buy a new chlorine maker, I'll call it that because I don't know the proper name of the device. -
It is really annoying me not knowing what it is, and what I can use it four ;D ;D.
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Ante, this is what you call a late late reply ;D. I managed to find a few more of these diodes on heat sinks, the boards I salvage them from, are identical to the first one that I salvage them from, but they have different part numbers. Does the picture give you any ideas of what they might be ???.
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Pressure sensitive switch
in Electronic Projects Design/Ideas
Posted
Hi tweak232,
this circuit that I posted is still work in progress, D1 is not needed. You could use a hall affects sensor, but as you can see it requires a few components, and is probably a bit of an overkill for what you want. But it is very flexible, and you can make it work like the PS/2 controller, and the amount of pressure required to push the button in, is only limited to the spring required to return the button.