pieterw0

Hi MP Thanks for the advise I got it working in a way. Pieter

Thanks! ;D

Thanks for the feedback tnk2k and Ante I will scratch around a bit and see what I can come up with. Pieter

Audioguru I am still on the old circuit. (Original) Pieter

Ante You got me very interested in your suggestion. The small piece of metal, is this attached to the shaft with the inductor a few inches away? Could you give more info as far as the specs of the inductive sensor. Perhaps if you have something on this type of configuration I would be happy to try it. Thanks Pieter

Hi Ante I was actualy playing around with audioguru and the 5th wheel. As you might have noticed from his posting that in my opinion I think he was sarcastic. So I humored him. Anyway I was looking at magnetic sensors as well as reflective laser pick up's that works on a shaft. (Prop shaft or drive shafts).There is a variety of sensors (pick-up's) available. If one would go for the magnetic version then you would need something like a belt with magnets evenly spaced to go around the shaft. With the laser, you would need a piece of tape with black markings evenly spaced around the shaft. http://www.shumatech.com/dro-350/add-ons.htm http://www.jeffree.co.uk/Pages/speedmeasurement.html I still think it is posible to change a component value to slow the response time in the original circuit to avoid the anoying beeps. . . . . . . . . . ;D I would welcome any suggestions. Pieter

Audioguru It is a speed alert. you called it a long distence speed alert. ;D I think I will settle for the 5th wheel. ??? ;D 8) Any ideas what size? Pieter

Audioguru I meant to ask you. I have the project working in a way. With this unit working on rpm it should warn on what ever revs are set. In my car the unit is set for 2000rpm which represents approximately 60 kph. When you pull away from stand still in first gear the revs reaches 2000rpm. Switching to second gear, before changing to third gear it reaches 2000 rpm. So whilst changing gears the alarm sounds every time the revs reaches 2000rpm. My question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is there a way that one can delay the alarm if the revs changes irregularly? Or is there a way to make the unit respond ONLY when the revs has stabilized? Any ideas to take the annoying beeps away whilst changing gears would be appreciated. Thanks Pieter

Hi Audioguru Sorted it out THANKS! Who made electronics so complicated anyway? ;D Pieter

Hi Audioguru The black lines does represents the connections as you sugest. The switch also selects each pot individually. What happens is that instead of each (SELECTED) pot adjusting between 0 and 100K, each selected pot adjust only between 55K and 85K. It doesn't go to zero and it doesn't go to near 100K. How ever, If I only use ONE pot the adjustment goes between 0 and 100K This is what I mean that it means (averages) the values Pieter

Hi Audioguru What is wrong with this picture. This is a Make before break single pin select switch. This configuration means the values of the 4 pots. Is there a different way of doing it or should I rather get a switch that select 2 pins simultaneously so that each pot could be selected individually? Thanks Pieter

Hi Audioguru In the right up the author sugested the following. Depending on the engine's cylinders number, R11 can be unable to set the device properly. In some cases you must use R11=200K and R12=100K or less. I did follow his advice but with with little change. So I thought I could make changes somewhere else. With your advice I have more room for improvement. The thing is that I don't want to tamper with components that might afect others. Thus causing more harm than good. I will try your advise and let you know Thanks Pieter

Hi Audioguru A small problem. I need to change some resistor values in the warning part of the circuit.(Old circuit) When I set R11 to 47K it moans on 1000 rpm. When I adjust R11 to 0 the highest revs I get is 1500 rpm. I need to gain at least another 2000 rpm. Because I cant go further than zero I assume that lowering some resistor values, would do the trick. So I’m not sure which ones. Any suggestions as to what resistors I could change. Thanks Pieter

Hi Audioguru and guys. My humblest apologies to every one on the forum !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I found out by accident that with pin 4 on IC1 connected works. The fact of the matter is that my computer is on the work bench. Having said this the magnetic pulses generated by the computer screen caused D1 to light. No matter in whatever position you turn R8 the led stayed lit. This was also the reason that the buzzer went beep on a per second basis. My computer hanged and I had to switch it off. Only when I did this I noticed that the led had gone dead. After restarting I moved away from the computer. The further away I moved the dimmer it got. So for about 2m + D1 goes out completely. To give you an indication how strong the pulses is, it as if the LED gets full voltage. The brightest a LED can go. I never realized that this was a factor. I am trying to kick myself in the butt but I can’t reach. Sorry guys. I am reconstructing the unit off all the damage I did to the tracks now so will let you know what happens. I will also try the new design. Who knows. Maybe both could be posted with pc boards on the web site. Pieter

Hi Audioguru and guys. Could you go back a few posts please! There is a few questions that I would like for you to answer, if it is not to much trouble. To answer Dazza’s question. I have a mechanical speedometer. This brings about a different topic. The application I want is a unit that if I preset it to 60mph then it must switch the buzzer and LED on at that point. So in other words all above 60mph this unit must moan until I reduce speed below 60mph. Once below 60mph the warnings must stop. This is actually all I need. The Speed limit alert circuit on the website doesn’t work so I’m looking at alternatives. BUT As far as I know the tachometer is the only way to go as far as wireless is concerned. Once you go the speedometer way you need a fixture like a shaft that you can count the number of revolutions per minute. This will be to expensive. I would rather settle for a small inexpensive way to warn me of over speeding. (Something I am guilty of many times) Audioguru You spoke about the 4 cascaded inverters. IC1 and IC2 is not that hot. Not to forget. IC3a also has some amplification. You must move the unit back and forth and sideways in the cabin to get a proper signal. The signal I found was basically next to the wind screen. (Not a good position) The LM2917 also has some amplification in the first of it’s three parts. If you think that the 4 cascaded inverters discussed with Alum, will work better I would rather go for that. Give me the schematic for a decent Speed alert with a buzzer and LED warning and I will build it. Just for interest sake: I have rebuilt the L1, IC1 and IC2 section again. If pin 4 of IC1 is connected D1 stays lit and doesn’t pick up a signal. Once disconnected D1 goes out. It starts flashing when a signal is detected. Pieter