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This project features a custom 3D-printed 'Mortal Kombat' trophy shell paired with a basic NE555 timer circuit in 'astable mode', producing a smooth 'breathing' LED effect—mimicking the gentle pulse of a living light. Watch this video for detailed step by step instructions on how to build this circuit and to know how this circuit works. You will discover how to blend retro gaming charm with modern electronics to create a stunning, attention-grabbing masterpiece. Video: https://youtu.be/Q4CRfxDFBEk 3D Printing I designed this project's 3D model using Blender. You can either create your own model or download my STL files from platforms like Thingiverse, Printables or Cults3D and then print it using PLA or any other filament of your choice. 3D Printing is a highly addictive hobby! There are so many things you can do using a 3D printer. From designing 3D Models to printing them using the 3D printer has now become my new hobby. I've been a "maker" since I was 10 years old, and have always constructed and made my own stuff. 3D printing for me is a blessing. I am totally lost in the 3D printing heaven. 3D printing has changed my electronics workshop life forever. Before when I used to order parts, I always used to wonder if the parts would fit into my project's resources... but after I got my 3D printer... it doesn't matter at all, because if it doesn't fit - I can design and print it myself. The 3D printer was definitely "The Missing Piece" from my electronics workshop. To achieve gentle, diffused lighting for this project, I repurposed the semi-transparent plastic from a milk bottle to evenly scatter light and to eliminate glare. Using Acrylic Colors, I painted the body of the trophy. The trophy's antique character came to life through strategic dry brushing with earthy browns and muted blues. Once dry, I will superglue the plastic cutout to the back of the front bit. Components Required For this tutorial you need: 555 Timer IC https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oo2U58w 47KΩ Resistor https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oDWJZkS 220Ω Resistor https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oE27Jk6 BC548 NPN Transistor https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oEuK8QS 33µF Capacitor https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_opXdT4E Blue LED https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oF9HV9c Circuit Diagram The heart of this circuit is the 555 timer IC. Pin No.1 of the IC is connected to GND. By connecting Pin 2 and 6 of the 555 timer IC, we put the IC in astable mode. In astable mode, the 555 timer IC acts as an oscillator (re-triggering itself) generating square waves [PWM Signals] from the output Pin no. 3. 3 other components connect to this junction. 1st one is the 33µF capacitor. The positive pin of the capacitor connects to the junction and the negative pin is connected to the GND. 2nd one is the 47KΩ resistor. One of its legs connects to the junction and the other leg connects to the Output pin, Pin No.3 of the IC. 3rd one is the Base of the BC548 NPN transistor. The collector of the transistor along with Pin 8 and 4 of the IC connects to the +ve terminal. of the battery. The LED along with its current limiting resistor is connected to the Emitter of the transistor. That's it as simple as that. Alright, now I am going to demonstrate how this circuit works with the help of an animation. How The Circuit Works When Pin 2 of the IC detects voltage LESS than 1/3rd of the supply voltage, it turns ON the output on Pin 3. And, when Pin 6 detects voltage MORE than 2/3rds of the supply voltage, it turns OFF the output. This is how the trigger pin (Pin2) and the threshold pin (Pin6) of the 555 timer IC sense voltages and controls the output at Pin 3. The Capacitor attached to the circuit will be in a discharged state immediately after firing up the circuit. So, the voltage at Pin 2 will be 0v which is less than 1/3rds of the supply voltage, this will turn ON the output on Pin 3. Since Pin 3 is looped back to Pin 2, it will start charging the Capacitor via the 47KΩ resistor. At the same time the base current of the transistor also increases causing the LED to slowly "fade-in". Once the voltage across the capacitor crosses 2/3rds of the supply voltage, Pin 6 turns OFF the output. This causes the capacitor to slowly discharge causing the base current to fall and hence the LED starts "fading-out". Once the voltage across the capacitor falls below 1/3rd of the supply voltage, Pin 2 turns ON the output, and the above cycle continues. You can hook up a multimeter to the circuit to measure the charging and discharging of the capacitor. Breadboard Demo So, here is a quick demo on a breadboard. In the current setup I have a 33µF Capacitor and a Blue LED on the breadboard. Replacing the 33µF Capacitor with a 100µF Capacitor makes the LED fade in-and-out slower as the 100µF capacitor charges and discharges slower than 33µF Capacitor. Also by replacing the "Blue LED" with a "Red LED", we can make the LED to stay "on" longer than the blue one with the same value of capacitor. This is because the "Forward Voltage" (Vf) of the Blue LED is higher than that of the Red LED. "Forward voltage" is the minimum amount of voltage that is required to allow an electrical component to turn on. The red, green and yellow LEDs have relatively "low" forward voltage ranging from 1.6-2.2V and hence stays on longer when the capacitor slowly charges or discharged. However, blue and white LEDs starts conducting from 2.5-4V and hence, when the discharging capacitor's voltage hits the threshold the LED turns off faster than the other colors. I have provided a link to how the forward voltage works in the description below. If you connect few LEDs in series, the forward voltage adds up and hence it will require more voltage to turn on the LEDs. You need to add a current limiting resistor between the emitter of the transistor and the LED to avoid an internal short-circuiting inside the led. The Board To make it easy for you guys, I have created this tiny little "555 LED Fader Module". After assembling the components, you just need to power this module by providing a voltage between 5v to 15v to fade the LED. So, this is how my board looks like in 2D and 3D. There are 16 breakout boards in this 100cm x 100cm assembly. You can download the gerber file from the link provided in the description below and order it from PCBWay. Soldering Let me quickly show you guys how to assemble the components to this custom made board. Let's start by soldering the IC Base to the board. Then let's solder the two resistors to the board. Next, lets solder the capacitor followed by the transistor to the board. Then, lets solder a blue LED to the board. Once done, let's insert the 555 timer IC to the IC base. To conclude the setup, I soldered 2 x Female pin headers to the board. You can either solder a pair of female pin-header or male pin-header or solder a pair of wires directly to the board to power this module. Cool, so this is how my module finally looks like. You can install female pin-headers in-place of the LED or Capacitor if you plan to use this as a development/testing board instead of a module. Assembling the Trophy Alright, it's time for me to put everything together! First, let’s glue the plastic cutout to the back of the front bit. Once that’s done, I added aluminum foil to the back section to boost the reflection inside the box. Next, let's solder a wire from the breakout board to the USB-C charging port. Then, let's attach all the five LEDs to the circuit board, including a red LED on the 5V input for the dragon’s eye. Once everything’s in place, I carefully hot-glue each LED to the back of the unit. Once that was all set, I superglued the top part to the bottom part. Finally, I mounted the whole assembly on a wooden base to complete the setup. Final Demo So, this is how my final setup looks like. Feel free to leave a feedback or suggestion in the comments if you see any room for improvement. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@CrazyCoupleDIY Video: https://youtu.be/Q4CRfxDFBEk Full Blog Post: View References GitHub: View Gerber: Download STL: Download What Is Forward Voltage: Visit LED Fader Using 555 Timer IC: https://youtu.be/30wGujPnupw Support My Work: BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

Due to individual differences in oral structure, some traditional oral dental films are difficult to fully adapt to the special conditions of the patient's mouth and may require multiple adjustments and break-ins, and traditional mass production methods cannot meet the demand for personalized dental films. The traditional approach relies heavily on mold production, but this makes it difficult to respond to the needs of individual patient variability. Manufacturing methods usually require a long production cycle, with patients needing to obtain, fit, and adjust the model throughout multiple visits, which increases the time cost of the entire process, and a cumbersome fabrication process that involves multiple processes, including model acquisition, plaster model fabrication, and dental film fitting, which makes the entire fabrication process more costly, including material and labor costs. Meeting the personalized and customized needs of dental health-care is the basis of dental film manufacturing, which happens to be a perfect match for the technical characteristics of 3D printing, thus creating a rapid growth of the dental 3D printing market, as well as fierce competition. A good 3D printing device must have a convenient and user-friendly human-machine interface that allows doctors or technicians to easily operate and monitor the printer status. Not only that but also a wealth of peripheral interfaces, such as USB, RS232/485, CAN, I2C, etc., can fully meet the needs of a variety of external devices and sensors, etc., to set aside enough scalability. To meet the hardware requirements of the main control board for dental and dental 3D printers, Flying Embedded has introduced the FET3568-C platform, which has a rich set of peripheral interfaces including USB, RS232/485, CAN, I2C, etc., and provides powerful connectivity for dental and dental 3D printers. At the same time, the chip platform reserves enough scalability to meet the needs of external devices and sensors, and provides flexible expansion space for the functions of dental equipment. Details of the scheme for realizing the 3D printer in the stomatology department: ARM architecture processor: FET3568-C is based on Rockchip's RK3568 core processor, providing powerful computing capabilities and low power consumption design, suitable for efficient control of oral and dental 3D printers. Motion control and sensor interfaces: The abundant peripheral interfaces of RK3568 chip are used to connect stepper motors, temperature sensors and so on, so as to realize motion control and real-time monitoring of system status. HMI: Equipped with a 7-inch or 10.1-inch high-resolution capacitive touch screen, it provides a convenient and friendly user interaction interface. The touch screen is designed according to the current user's operating habits, making the operation more intuitive and easy to use. 4K display support: Additional interfaces support 4K display, such as HDMI and eDP, for external high-resolution display devices. This ensures clarity and precision of the print control operation. Optical connection: Integrated external optical interface for print control to ensure accuracy and efficiency of dental and dental 3D printers. Network connection and communication interface: The network function of FET3568-C platform is used to realize the remote monitoring and upgrading of equipment. At the same time, other devices and sensors are connected through USB, RS232/485, CAN and other interfaces. Summary: The FET3568-C-based dental and dental 3D printer implementation takes full advantage of the platform's powerful performance and rich peripheral interfaces. The optimization of the human-machine interface, the support of a 4K display, and the connection of multiple sensors ensure efficient, convenient, and precise operation of the equipment, providing advanced digital solutions in the field of oral dentistry.

When the full moon is shining and the wolves are howling, it's time for Halloween's spooky spectacle. The snickering grins of jack-o'-lanterns glow from lit porches. Kids skip down the block in spooky costumes, carrying bags full of candy and shouting "Trick or Treat!". The Nightmare Before Christmas is almost here... Do you see dead people??? Alright Enough of that, in this Spooktacular video I am going to create an Arduino based 3D printed Halloween Décor. It's super easy, fun and spooky.... 3D Printing 3D Printing is a highly addictive hobby! This is the very first time I am using my 3D printer to print something electronics related. The STL files used in this project are all downloaded from www.Thingiverse.com. I have uploaded a copy of all the 3D Objects to my GitHub repository, the link is in the description below. 3D printing has changed my life. There are so many things you can do using a 3D printer. From designing 3D Models to printing them using the 3D printer has now become my new hobby. I've been a "maker" since I was 10 years old, and have always constructed and made my own stuff. 3D printing for me is a blessing. I am totally lost in the 3D printing heaven. 3D printing has changed my electronics workshop life forever. Before when I used to order parts, I always used to wonder if the parts would fit into my projects resources... but after I got my 3D printer... it doesn't matter at all, because if it doesn't fit - I could design and print it myself. The 3D printer was definitely "The Missing Piece" from my electronics workshop. Schematic Diagram Now that we have all our 3D Models printed, lets have a look at the component assembly. The assembly is super simple. We just need to connect 4 Yellow LEDs to D2, D3, D4 and D5 pins of Arduino via 220ohm current limiting resistor. Then connect the white LED to Analogue Pin D10 of the Arduino via a current limiting resistor. That's it, as simple as that. The Code Now, lets have a look at the code that will drive the LEDs. Lets start by defining all the variables. Then in the setup section lets define all the pin modes. To flash the LEDs I chose 5 different Flashing patterns: 1. All LEDs Flash Very Fast For 10 Seconds 2. All LEDs Flash Slowly For 10 Seconds 3. 2 LEDs Turn On and 2 LEDs Turn Off for 10 seconds 4. LED Chaser Circuit for 10 seconds 5. One LED Randomly Turn On for 10 seconds The switch statement in the loop() section randomly picks up one of these patterns and runs it for 10 seconds. The white LED also fades in and out after every cycle. At the bottom of the code, I have defined all these 5 LED flashing patter in their respective functions. Demo on Breadboard After loading the code on an Arduino Nano this is how it looks like. The white LED will go inside the Ghost and the Yellow LEDs will go inside the Pumpkins. Humm, that looks promising, isn't it? Assembling Let's start by soldering the wires to the LEDs. Then lets solder the Arduino Nano to a perf-board and then solder all the resistors to the board. Next, lets soldered the LEDs to the D2, D3, D4, D5 and D10 pins of the Arduino via the current limiting resistors. That's all you have to do for the electronics bit. Now, let's hot glue the perf-board inside the coffin, followed by all the LEDs to a wooden block. Before putting the 3D printed components on the LEDs, let's do a quick test to verify everything works as expected. Look at that... Now, one by one lets hot glue the 3D printed components to the plank. To finalize the setup, I added a few dry grass leaves to hide the wirings. That's it all done. Final Demo So this is how my final setup looks like. Do comment and let me know if there are any scopes of improvement. Until then, Happy Halloween.... Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: Visit Full Blog Post: Visit Code: Download Schema: Download STL Files: Coffin: Download RIP: Download Pumpkins: Download Pikachu: Download Ghost: Download Instructables: https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printed-Arduino-Halloween-Décor/ Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca gain in my next tutorial.