Ashish Adhikari

Thanks

Yes I do mate

Humidifiers add moisture to the air. They can help people with dry skin, allergies, and respiratory problems. They may also help in preventing influenza and reduce snoring. I bought this AU$2 USB Mini Humidifier DIY Kit from AliExpress and went ahead and created a cute little 3D container for it. In this tutorial, I will show you guys how I designed and assembled the humidifier circuit into the 3D model. 3D Model While browsing the Internet, I found this cute little candle holder created by SERV3D on Cults3D.com. The design was very cute and I went ahead and upsized and customized the design to fit all my electronics bits into it. With the help of Microsoft 3D Builder, I modified the 3D Model. The model has 2 compartments. The top compartment is completely hollow to hold water in it. I kept the top section open to fill water into it. All the electronics bits will go inside the second compartment. Those two screw holes are to hold the rechargeable 18650 battery holder. This pipe like structure is for the wires to go from the top section to the bottom section. The top compartment is 9.5cm x 4.5cm. So, if we calculate the volume of the cylinder it comes out to 604cm-cube. By dividing the volume by 1000 we can get the volume of water that can be stored inside that compartment. So, it comes out roughly around 0.6 liters. At the back of the model, I created a grove to fit in a block of plastic that will house the TP4056 18650 battery charging module and a SPDT switch. The charging module gets super hot while charging, so I have given enough space in the block to keep the module cool. The bottom lid will cover and hide all the electronics bits into it. The top lid has a hole in the middle to house the humidifier straw. Thats it as simple as that. 3D Printing Once the 3D model was sorted, it was time for me to fire up my 3D printing oven and start printing these 3D models. As we all know, 3D printing is the process that uses computer-aided design or CAD, to create objects layer by layer. 3D printing is not a new technology, its been there since the 1980's, when Charles W. Hull invented the process and created the first 3D-printed part. Since then, the field of 3D printing has grown exponentially and holds countless possibilities. The 3D printing process fascinates me a lot and I sometimes love to sit near my printer and watch these layers getting printed. 3D Printing is a highly addictive hobby! There are so many things you can do using a 3D printer. From designing 3D Models to printing them using the 3D printer has now become my new hobby. I've been a "maker" since I was 10 years old, and have always constructed and made my own stuff. 3D printing for me is a blessing. I am totally lost in the 3D printing heaven. 3D printing has changed my electronics workshop life forever. Before when I used to order parts, I always used to wonder if the parts would fit into my project's resources... but after I got my 3D printer... it doesn't matter at all, because if it doesn't fit - I could design and print it myself. The 3D printer was definitely "The Missing Piece" from my electronics workshop. The entire printing process took roughly around 20hrs. After extracting all the 3D printed bits, I sanded them to give them a nice and smooth texture. This is the bottom cover, that's the top lid with a hole for the humidifier straw and a handle to open and close the lid. This block will hold the battery charger and the SPDT switch into it. The main body has the top compartment for holding water in it and the bottom compartment for housing all the electronics bits into it. Schematic The circuit is very simple. By connecting an USB Type-C charging cable to the TP4056 Module we charge the 18650 battery connected to the B+ and B- terminals of the module. The humidifier module connects to the OUT+ and OUT- terminals of the charging module via a SPDT switch. Using this switch we can turn on or off the humidifier. So, these are the components that were in the DIY Kit. A circular atomizer, two plastic holders, a straw and the main humidifier circuit board. I customized the board by adding a couple of male pin headers to power this unit using a battery and dropped a blob of solder to bypass the push button switch. To assemble, insert the atomizer into the black plastic holders along with the humidifier straw. Then connect the atomizer to the humidifier circuit board. In my project the circular atomizer will be way far from the circuit board. So, I will replace the short red and black cable with a long ribbon cable. Assembling The Bottom Let's start by soldering the battery holder to the B+ and B- terminals of the charging module. Then, let's solder the -ve connector that will power the humidifier to the OUT- terminal of the board. After that, let's solder a loose cable to the OUT+ terminal. Now, let's slide the humidifiers +ve connector and the other end of the loose cable into the plastic block. Then, solder these two cables to the SPDT switch and superglue it to the block. Then push the charging module into the groves of the plastic block. Once the block is all set, push it into the back of the main unit. After that, using a couple of screws attach the battery holder to the bottom of the unit. I used hot glue to stick the humidifier circuit to the bottom of the unit. Once everything is in place, plug in the 18650 battery to the battery holder and push the white and black atomizers cable through the pipe like structure. After that, connect the atomizer's power chord to the humidifier and seal the bottom lid. Assembling The Top Be very careful while assembling the top. The atomizer has two sides. The one with more exposed metal area, touches the humidifiers straw. I soldered the atomizer to the white and black cable after passing it through the top lids hole. Then it was just a matter of putting the atomizer inside the two black holders along with the straw and then snap-closing it and pushing the setup through the hole. That's it, all done. Coloring I wasn't very confident about PLA being waterproof and not absorbing water leading to swelling and degrading of the biodegradable plastic. So, I went ahead and painted the inner bit with "Bitumen Waterproofing Membrane". Then, using Acrylic Colors, I painted the body of the 3D printed model. I gave the model a bit rustic look, but hey.. it totally depends on you how you want your project to look like. Final Demo To fill the container with water, you just need to lift the top lid and pour water into it. Once fully charged, the unit can run seamlessly for roughly around 10 hours. So, this is how my final setup looks like. Do comment and let me know if there are any scopes of improvement. Advantages Dry air causes moisture to evaporate from the skin and respiratory symptoms to worsen over time. Adding moisture to the air with a humidifier can counteract these problems. Humidifiers can help people who experience: cracked lips dry skin irritated eyes dryness in the throat or airways frequent coughs bloody noses allergies sinus headaches Disadvantages Dirty humidifiers : If the unit’s water tank is dirty, the vapor a person breathes will also be dirty. Too much humidity : excessive level of humidity can make breathing difficult and some allergy symptoms worse. Using hard water or tap water : Minerals from hard tap water can build up in the machine, causing it to wear down faster than expected. The humidifier can also push these minerals into the air, and a person may inhale them. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: View Full Blog Post: View References GitHub: View Stl Files: Download Wallpapers: Download Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 POL: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

Bring life to your home with this enchanting 4x4x4 LED cube. From static to flashing, chasing, or fading this cube can be programmed to display many different types of 3D LED transitions. This customizable PCB LED cube is super easy to make and fun to have in your home. Go ahead and create a forest of these cubes using various color LEDs to enhance the beauty of your Christmas Tree this Christmas. This cube has 64 Blue LEDs organized in 4 layers. These LEDs are wired up to an Arduino Nano. Each LED can be addressed individually using Arduino IDE, enabling it to display amazing 3D transitions! There are hundreds of tutorials of these cubes made using exposed metal wires and by using crazy soldering techniques, which just gives me shivers. In this tutorial I'll show you guys how to make this super simple 4x4x4 PCB LED cube "without over complicating anything". With just basic soldering skills, you can create this PCB cube and light up your living room making everyone jealous. Components Required For this project we need: 64 x Blue Color Round LEDs (plus some extra just in case you make a mistake) 4 x Blue Color Flat LEDs 4 x 100Ohm Resistors 8 x 4GX9 Pan Head Screws 1 x 220v to 5v Step Down Converter An AC Power Cord 1 x Arduino Nano A 3D Printer Acrylic Colors Custom Built PCBs 20 x Exposed Thick Copper Wires and An x Optional switch ** All the project related resources can be downloaded from my GitHub repository : https://github.com/tarantula3/4x4x4-LED-Cube. Testing The LEDs Before we start assembling our LED cube, it is a very good idea to test these LEDs. Since few of the LEDs will remain absolutely inside the cube, so accessing them after the assembly will become an absolute nightmare. Hence a simple mistake can bring a lot of greif. Using a coin cell, I tested all the 64 main LEDs and the 4 Square LEDs. The Board So, I designed two types of PCBs for this project. One for the base and the other one that will be installed 4 times to create the top 4 layers of the cube. Both PCBs have "TOP" and "BOTTOM" written on them. The "Top" section faces up and the "Bottom" section faces down. While assembling the cube, I will first solder the 16 copper wires to the "Top Section" of the base plate. Then I will solder the remaining 4 wires to the board. Each of these wires will connect to only one layer. Hence, all these wires are of different sizes. The 1st one from right connects to layer 1, next one to layer 2 and so on. Once all the wires are soldered to the "Top Section" of the base plate, I will one by one slide the LED meshes over these wires and solder them accordingly to form the top 4 layers. Soldering The LED Mesh So, this is what came in the mailbag. Thanks to PCBWay, the boards are very well fabricated and look absolutely amazing. The black color solder mask is adding to the beauty of the boards. As discussed earlier we need 4 of the "LED Mesh Boards" and 1 board for the "Base". One by one I added all the LEDs to the board. While soldering the LEDs, please make sure that they are all added to the "Top" side of the board. Once all the LEDs were in, I went ahead and soldered them to the board. Soldering The Base After sorting out the top layers, it was time for me to set up the bottom bit. I started the setup by soldering the 4 x 100ohm resistors to the board. Then, I soldered the Arduino Nano to the board. Instead of soldering the Arduino Nano directly to the board, I used female pin headers to house the Arduino Nano Micro controller. Please make sure all these components are soldered to the "Bottom" side of the base plate. After that, I one by one soldered all the copper wires to the base plate. While soldering the wires, please make sure you solder them to the "Top" side of the board. After soldering the wires to the base plate, slide the 1st LED Mesh and solder all the wires to it. Then slide the 2nd one and so on. I left a 1.7cm gap between each layer and 1.2cm gap between the 1st layer and the base plate. In this setup, the 4 wires that we saw earlier that connect to individual layers are soldered to the middle rail. However, in the final version I moved them to the outer rail to make the soldering process easy. Coding I found this sketch online, and then I edited it to work with my LED cube. You can download the code from my GitHub repository (https://github.com/tarantula3/4x4x4-LED-Cube). The code is exactly the same as any other 4x4x4 LED cube code with some additional transitions that I added. I also found that the Arduino Nano freezes after a while. So, to keep the process going without any interruptions, I added a function to reboot the board after it completes one set of transitions. 3D Model Using Microsoft 3D Builder I designed the base of the cube. The onscreen 3D model is actually upside down. On one of the sides, I left a hole for inserting the power chord. These groves are for the 4 x Flat Head LEDs. The lid sits on top of the base and is screwed to the base using 4GX9 Pan Head Screws. 3D Printing Once the 3D models were sorted, it was time for me to fire up my 3D printing oven and start printing these 3D models. As we all know, 3D printing is the process that uses computer-aided design or CAD, to create objects layer by layer. 3D printing is not a new technology, its been there since the 1980's, when Charles W. Hull invented the process and created the first 3D-printed part. Since then, the field of 3D printing has grown exponentially and holds countless possibilities. The 3D printing process fascinates me a lot and I sometimes love to sit near my printer and watch these layers getting printed. After extracting all the 3D printed bits, I sanded them to give them a nice and smooth texture. Coloring Using Acrylic Colors, I painted the body of the 3D printed base. Assembling Now the final bits. I soldered the base-plate and the 4 x flat-head LEDs to the 220v-to-5v Step Down Converter. Then I pushed all the flat head LEDs through the groves that I created in the 3D printed base. Then using the 4GX9 Pan Head Screws I screwed the 3D printed base to the base plate. Next, I soldered the AC power-cord to the step-down converter and hot-glued it to one of the sides of the 3D printed base. I created an acrylic box for the cube which will keep the LED Mesh dust free. To conclude the assembly, I screwed the cover to the base. That's it, all done. Final Demo So, this is how my final setup looks like. Do comment, and let me know if there are any scopes of improvement. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: View Full Blog Post: View References GitHub: View Code: Download Stl Files: Download Gerber Files: Download Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial

Destiny Internet Ghost - Internet Notifier The Internet has changed the way we live our lives. From communication, education, banking, entertainment and shopping, the Internet has had a profound impact on our world. Gone are the days when the pen was the most important tool in this world. times have changed and now the internet rules the world. It is very difficult to imagine our world without the Internet. In the year 2021 I created a "Internet Hardware WatchDog" using NodeMCU which reboots my home router whenever there is an issue with the Internet. This device sits next to my router and happily takes care of it whenever it has a hiccup. This year, I wanted to extend the watchdogs horizon by adding an "Internet Status Notifier" that displays the current status of the Internet using an RGB LED. When the Internet is up and running, the notifier displays a blue light and when the Internet is down it goes red. Video: https://youtu.be/mWDEx0khpWM Note: If you do any work with "mains power" such as 120v or 240v AC power wiring, you should always use proper equipment and safety gears and determine whether you have adequate skill and experience or consult a Licensed Electrician. This project is not intended for use by children. Awards Video Featured on Instructables Components Required For this project we need: 1 x RGB LED 1 x 200 Ohm Resistor 1 x WeMos-D1 Mini/NodeMCU 1 x 220V to 5V Step Down Converter 1 X 2M Long Power Chord 1 x 220v Male Wall Plug, and 1 x 3D Printer Circuit Diagram The circuit is very simple. Connect the 5V pin and the GND pin of the D1-mini to the stepdown converter. Then, connect the Common Anode of the RGB LED via a 220ohm resistor to the 3.3V pin of the D1-mini. Then connect the Blue LEDs to D6, Red to D7 and Green to D8 pin of the board. That's it as simple as that. The Logic When the device is turned on it starts pinging "www.google.com". If it receives a successful ping, the Blue LED turns on and starts fading in and out. If the ping drops, the blue LED turns off and the Red LED turns on and starts fading in and out until a successful ping is received. After running the code on a breadboard for a few days, I figured out that the D1-mini board sometimes freezes and completely becomes unresponsive. To avoid this situation, I added a logic to "reboot" the board every hour. 3D Model While browsing the Internet, I stumbled upon "Destiny Ghosts". The Ghost is an AI companion in the game "Destiny". It is a floating intelligence that was created by the "Traveler" during his dying days to assist the Guardians to protect the Universe. I immediately fell in love with the concept and the design of the Ghosts. I spent a few days creating my own 3D model of the Ghost. You can download the STL files from www.cults3D.com. 3D Printing Ghosts are floating machine entities slightly larger than a human hand. They consist of a spherical core with a single glowing "eye" surrounded by a "shell". The default Ghost shell consists of eight roughly tetrahedral white segments with orange highlights, but there are huge diversities of shells available that Ghosts can adopt for cosmetic purposes. In the game Ghosts are used for navigation, accessing computer systems, lighting dark areas, summoning your Sparrow, and much more. 3D Printing is a highly addictive hobby! There are so many things you can do using a 3D printer. From designing 3D Models to printing them using the 3D printer has now become my new hobby. I've been a "maker" since I was 10 years old, and have always constructed and made my own stuff. 3D printing for me is a blessing. I am totally lost in the 3D printing heaven. 3D printing has changed my electronics workshop life forever. Before when I used to order parts, I always used to wonder if the parts would fit into my project's resources... but after I got my 3D printer... it doesn't matter at all, because if it doesn't fit - I could design and print it myself. The 3D printer was definitely "The Missing Piece" from my electronics workshop. Coloring Using Acrylic Colors, I painted the body of the Ghost. After that, I super glued the orange highlights to the tetrahedral white segments. Next, I super glued the front eye and the back lid to the body of the Ghost. After that, I super glued the stand to the back bit of the Ghost. This stand will keep the unit straight when you place it on your desk. Adding Electronics Since the circuit is very simple, I did not design a PCB for this. I just went ahead and soldered the D1-Mini and all other components to a general purpose perf-board. At the top bit, I soldered the D1-Mini and the RGB LED and at the bottom bit, I soldered the 200v-to-5v step-down converter and the 220ohm resistor. Next, after soldering the 2M long power-cord, I hot glued the perf-board to the back bit of the unit. The Code The code starts by including all the necessary libraries. Then it defines all the variables needed for setting up the WiFi connection. Next, it defines the LED Pins followed by the list of all the global variables used in the code. In the setup() section, I first defined all the pin modes followed by setting up the Wi-Fi connection. I assigned a static IP address to the D1-mini board. If you want to use DHCP then go ahead and delete these three lines from your code. void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); /** Define the pin modes **/ pinMode(LED_RED, OUTPUT); analogWrite(LED_RED, 1023); pinMode(LED_BLUE, OUTPUT); analogWrite(LED_BLUE, 1023); pinMode(LED_GREEN, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(LED_GREEN, HIGH); /** We start by connecting to a WiFi network **/ IPAddress local_IP(192, 168, 0, 240); // Static IP Address for ESP8266 IPAddress subnet(255, 255, 255, 0); // Subnet Mask IPAddress gateway(192, 168, 0, 1); // Default Gateway /*********** Setup a WiFi connection ***********/ Serial.println(); if (WiFi.config(local_IP, gateway, subnet)) { Serial.println("Static IP Configured"); } else { Serial.println("Static IP Configuration Failed"); }; WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA); WiFi.begin(WIFI_SSID, WIFI_PWD); Serial.println("Connecting to WiFi"); while (WiFi.status() != WL_CONNECTED) { delay(300); Serial.print("."); switch(ctr){ // Green LED Flashes On Boot case 0: digitalWrite(LED_GREEN, HIGH); ctr=1; break; case 1: digitalWrite(LED_GREEN, LOW); ctr=0; break; }; }; Serial.println("\nWiFi connected"); Serial.print("IP address: "); Serial.println(WiFi.localIP()); digitalWrite(LED_GREEN, HIGH); // Turn off the Green LED }; Next in the loop() section, I am pinging 8.8.8.8 or Google.com and if I receive a successful ping I am fading in and out the Blue LED. If the ping fails the Red LED faded in and out. void loop() { if (pingTest()) BrightnessController("BLUE"); // If a successful ping is received else BrightnessController("RED"); // If the ping fails turn on the red LED if (millis() >= 3600000) ESP.reset(); // Reboot the WEMOS D1 Mini Every Hour = 3600000 milliseconds }; Both BrightnessController() and pingTest() functions are defined in the bottom section of the code. Then, to avoid the D1-mini from freezing and becoming unresponsive, I am using the ESP.reset() function to reset the device every hour. Demo On A Breadboard Before adding the electronic bits to the 3D printed bits, I did a quick test on a Breadboard to make sure everything works as expected. As you can see, when I turn on the circuit the Green LED starts flashing. As soon as a connection is established with the router the device starts pinging 8.8.8.8. Initially, few of the pings fail and the Red LED lights up. As soon as a successful ping is received the Blue LED starts fading in and out. Bingo! Job done... Final Demo So, this is how my final setup looks like. Powering on the unit makes the green LED flash until it establishes a connection with the router. After that, the Blue LED starts fading in and out advising us that the unit has received successful ping from www.Google.com. You can install this unit anywhere in your house and use it as an "Internet Status Notifier". Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: View Full Blog Post: View References GitHub: View Stl Files: Download Internet Hardware WatchDog Using NodeMCU: View Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

A water level indicator detects and indicates the level of water in an overhead tank and relays the information back to a control panel to indicate whether the tank has a high or low water level. In this tutorial, I am going to use the ULN2003 IC to create a simple, inexpensive water level indicator. Using this circuit you can easily control the wastage of water and electricity. Watch this video, for detailed step by step instructions on how to build this circuit and to know how this circuit works. Towards the end of the video I will also discuss whether its really worth building this circuit. Components Required For this tutorial we need: 1 x ULN2003 IC 8 x Different Color LEDs 8 x 1K Resistors 1 x 220Ohm Resistor 1 x Buzzer A Long Ribbon Cable, and A Breadboard or a Custom Built PCB About The ULN2003 IC The notch on the top indicates the starting and stopping points of the numberings of the chip. Starting from left to right going counterclockwise this is the Pin number 1 of the IC. On the left hand side Pin 1 to 7 are the Base Inputs. On the right hand side Pin 10 to 16 are the Collector Outputs. Pin 9 is the Common Cathode node for flyback diodes (required for inductive loads). And, Pin 8 is the Common Emitter shared by all channels of the IC. This pin is typically tied to ground. The UNL2003 IC contains 7 High Voltage, High Current NPN Darlington Transistor Arrays each rated at 50V, 500mA in a 16-pin DIP package. You can connect the IC directly to a digital logic (like Arduino or Raspberry Pi, TTL or 5V CMOS device) without an external dropping resistor. The ULN2003 is known for its high current and high voltage capacity. The Darlington pairs can be "paralleled" for higher current Output. To know more about this IC, please check out my "Tutorial No. 51: All About ULN2003 IC", the link is in the description below. Circuit Diagram The circuit is very simple. I have connected 7 LEDs to the 7 OUT Pins of the IC via 1K Resistors. On my left, are the 7 digital inputs which are connected to a ribbon cable. The other end of the ribbon is submerged in the water tank with exposed terminals at various heights to detect the water levels. Along with the 7 wires, there is an eighth wire that stays at the bottom of the tank and is connected to the +ve terminal. As the tank starts filling up, the water level rises and a conductive path is created between the positive terminal and the base of Darlington Transistor inside the IC. Hence a logic HIGH is sent to the Input Pin of the IC which leads to the corresponding OUT Pin to go LOW lighting up the LEDs one by one starting from the bottom Red to the top Green. The bottom Red LED indicates lack of water and the top Green LED indicates that the tank is 100% full. You can also add a buzzer to the circuit to get an audio indication when the tank is full. If you want to be super funky, you can also add a relay module which can turn on and off the water pump. Breadboard Demo Before assembling the components on a PCB, lets do a quick test on a breadboard to make sure our logic works as expected. For this demo, I am going to fill up a coffee mug with normal tap water. As you can see, the LED indicators go up from bottom Red to the top Green as I keep filling the mug. The buzzer starts buzzing when the mug is 100% full. Hence, our setup is working as expected. The Board So, this is how my board looks like in 2D and 3D. If you want to learn how to design a PCB, please check out my "Tutorial No. 45: Transformers PCB BADGE", the link is in the description below. Component Assembly Now, lets solder the components to the board. Lets first solder all the resistances to the board. Then, lets solder all the LEDs to the board. I am using a 3mm Green LED as the power indicator. Next, I am soldering the IC base to the board. Since I care a lot about my ICs and micro-controllers, I never solder them directly to the board. In case of an ICs, I always try to use an IC bases or if a base is not available I use female pin headers. After soldering the IC base, I am soldering the Buzzer to the board. Now to conclude the setup, I am soldering the Ribbon Cable to the board. For my setup, I am only using half a meter long cable. But in a real-world scenario, you will definitely need a cable longer than this. Final Demo So, this is how the final setup looks like. As the water level rises, a conductive path is created between the positive terminal and the base of Darlington Transistors inside the IC. This triggers a logic HIGH at the Input Pins of the IC and the corresponding OUT Pins goes LOW lighting up the LEDs one by one starting from the bottom Red to the top Green. When the mug is 100% full the top green LED lights up and we also hear a noises of the buzzer. Usability To be very frank, I see more disadvantages than advantages of using this IC in building a liquid level indicator. You may have a different opinion, but my opinion is based on the below facts: The choice of the probes that will remain submerged in the liquid has to be done very carefully as they: Rust, foul and deteriorate due to "corrosion" and "electrolysis" causing the LEDs to slowly fade and finally turn off. Hence the probes need to be cleaned and replaced every 2 - 3 years. This circuit will work well with tap water, however do not use this with salt water or with any flammable liquid. If in your house you get hard-water, there will be salt deposits on the probes and you will have to clean the salt deposits on a regular basis. This circuit will not work if you have a metal tank. Replacing the contact points with something "non-corrosive" may help but I will not put my bet on that. Another option is to have "large electrodes" which will have a low impedance even when covered with impurities. To conclude I would like to say that the ULN2003 is not the best device to use for this application. You might be better using a "CMOS buffer" or inverter which needs less water conductivity to operate and also gives a more sudden output change as the input voltage rises and falls, along with "non-corrosive large electrodes". Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: View Full Blog Post: View References GitHub: View Gerber: View DataSheet: Download All About ULN2003 IC: View Transformers PCB BADGE: View DIY Relay Module: View Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca gain in my next tutorial.

The UNL2003 IC contains 7 High Voltage, High Current NPN Darlington Transistor Arrays each rated at 50V, 500mA in a 16-pin DIP package. You can connect the IC directly to a digital logic (like Arduino or Raspberry Pi, TTL or 5V CMOS device) without an external dropping resistor. This IC features "common-cathode flyback diodes" for switching inductive loads. The ULN2003 is known for its high current and high voltage capacity. The Darlington pairs can be "paralleled" for higher current Output. The inputs are capable with TTL and 5v CMOS logic. Now, let's deep-dive and check out the internals of the IC and how it can be used in our projects. Pin Configuration and Functions The notch on the top indicates the starting and stopping points of the numberings of the chip. Starting from left to right going counterclockwise this is the Pin number 1 of the IC. * On the left hand side Pin 1 to 7 are the Base Inputs. * On the right hand side Pin 10 to 16 are the Collector Outputs. * Pin 9 is the Common Cathode node for flyback diodes (required for inductive loads). * And, Pin 8 is the Common Emitter shared by all channels of the IC. This pin is typically tied to ground. Detailed Description Inside the IC is the arrays of the 7 NPN "Darlington Transistors". Darlington Transistors were first invented in 1953 by Sidney Darlington. A Darlington pair is a circuit consisting of two Bipolar Transistors with the Emitter of one transistor connected to the Base of the other transistor. In this setup, the current amplified by the first transistor is further amplified by the second transistor. The collectors of both transistors are connected together. This configuration has a much higher current gain than each transistor taken separately. A small base current can make the pair switch to a much higher current. It appears as if it is just a single transistor, with only one base, one collector, and one emitter. Creating a high current gain approximately to the product of the gains of the two transistors: β Darlington = (β 1 * β 2) + β 1 + β 2 Since, β1 and β2 are high enough, we can write the above statement as: β Darlington ≈ β 1 * β 2 This connection creates the effect of a single transistor with a very high-current gain. The 7 outputs are all "Open Collector". By Open Collector, we mean a collector that is not attached to anything. It's just open. In order for an open collector output device to work, the open collector has to receive sufficient power. In order for an NPN transistor to work, the collector and the base both need to receive sufficient power. The base turns the transistor on, and then a much greater current flows from collector to emitter, but only if the collector has sufficient positive voltage. So if you want to connect a load to the Output of the chip with an open-collector-output, you must attach the load to a positive voltage source that is sufficient enough to drive the load. Hence, the +ve side of the load connects to the +ve voltage rail and the -ve side connects to the OUTPUT pin of the IC. Hence, when the Base current goes HIGH, the current flows from the collector to emitter and the Output logic goes LOW turning ON the LED (load) connected to the OUT pin of the IC and vice-versa. The maximum Output Current of a single OUTPUT pin is 500mA and the total emitter-terminal current is 2.5A as per the datasheet. Now, let's have a closer look at a single Darlington pair (internal circuit diagram) of the ULN2003 IC. The GPIO input voltage is converted to base current through a series base 2.7kΩ resistor connected between the Input and Base of the Darlington NPN junction. This allows the IC to connect directly to a digital logic (like Arduino, Raspberry Pi, TTL or 5V CMOS device) without the need of external dropping resistors operating at supply voltages of 5V or 3.3V. The 7.2kΩ and the 3kΩ resistors connected between the Base and the Emitter of each respective NPN transistor acts as pulldown resistors preventing floating states and suppressing the amount of leakage that may occur from the input. To maximize the effectiveness, these units contain "Suppression Diodes" for inductive loads. The diode connected between the OUT pin and the COM pin (PIN 9) is used to suppress the "kick-back voltage" from an inductive load which is generated when the NPN drivers are turned off and the stored energy of the coils causes a reverse flow of current. A reverse biased suppressing diode is also placed between the Base-Emitter and the Collector-Emitter pair to avoid the Parasitic nature of the NPN transistors. Pin 8 is connected to the GND. Device Functional Modes Inductive Load In case of an inductive load, when the COM pin is tied to a coil, the IC is able to drive inductive loads and suppress the kick-back voltage through the internal free-wheeling diodes. Resistive Load When driving a resistive load, a pullup resistor is needed in order for the IC to sink current and maintain a logic HIGH level. In this case the COM pin can be left floating (not connected). This device can operate over a wide temperature range between –40°C to 105°C. Applications Now, lets hook this IC to a circuit. As we know, the ULN2003 IC can easily drive a high-current or high-voltage (or both) device, which a Microcontroller or a Logic Device cannot tolerate. Hence, they are widely used in driving inductive loads like motors, solenoids and relays. 1. In my first example, I am going to light up a few LEDs using this IC I have connected 7 LEDs to the 7 OUT Pins of the IC via 220Ohm resistors. On my left, are the 7 digital inputs directly interfaced to either a Microcontroller or a TTL Digital Logic. When a logic HIGH is sent to the input pin the corresponding OUT pin goes LOW lighting up the LED. 2. In my second example, I am driving a Unipolar Stepper Motor using this IC In this setup, I am using Pin 1~4 for INPUT and Pin 13~16 for OUTPUT. Each OUT pin is rated at 500mA. Pin 9 has the spike suppressor diode, and is connected to the +ve terminal. By sending combinations of 0's and 1's to the 4 input pins we can rotate our stepper motor. I have used this setup in my award winning Video Tutorial: "NodeMCU Based - 3D Printed Indoor Gauge Thermometer" the link is in the description below. 3. In my third example, I am going to light-up a few AC Lightbulbs using this IC For high voltage applications, we can use RELAYS to control motors, heaters, lamps or AC circuits which themselves can draw a lot more electrical voltage/current and therefore power. We can hook up a maximum of 7 Relays to this IC. In my setup, I have connected 4 Relays to the 4 OUT pins of the IC. An AC Lightbulb is connected to the NO-pin of the relay. When we send a Digital HIGH to the INPUT pin the corresponding OUT pin goes LOW and current flows through the coil pulling the armature, completing the circuit and hence lighting up the 220V Light Bulb. Same as the previous setup, Pin 9 with the suppressor diode is tied back to the +ve terminal. 4. In my 4th example, I am going to show you guys how to obtain more than 500mA at the OUTPUT As we know that each of the OUT Pins are rated at 500mA, then how can I drive a 1Amp device? All we have to do is, tie 3 of the OUTPUT pins on the OUT side, and tie 3 of the corresponding INPUT Pins on the INPUT side. Now the 3 INPUT pins act like a single INPUT Pin. So basically, we can parallel the inputs to get a higher amplified value of paralleled output. You may ask, why did I combine 3 INPUTS and OUTPUTS and not just 2? As per the datasheet each pin is rated at 500mA but the total output is 2.5A (*** Page 4 of datasheet ****). Hence, 2.5A / 7 Pins = 0.36 Approx. So, 0.36 * 3 = 1.07Amp Approx. which is what we want. Areas of Application The ULN2003A produced by Texas Instruments can be used for: 1. Driving motors and solenoids 2. Can be used as a Relay Driver for high voltage application (7 relays at the max) 3. To drive high current loads using Digital Circuits 4. To drive high current LED's 5. To create a water level indicator circuit 6. As a LED and Gas Discharge Display Drivers 7. Can also be used as a logic buffer in digital circuits and more... For more information about the packaging and the material used, please have a look at the datasheet. The link is in the description below. Always consult a manufacturer's datasheet before assuming industrial conventions, no matter how intuitive or obvious they may be. "In the face of ambiguity, refuse the temptation to guess." - Zen of Python Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: Watch Full Blog Post: Visit References DataSheet: Download Darlington transistor: View Open Collector Output: View Transistor–Transistor Logic: View Parasitic Structure: View Related Videos NodeMCU Based - 3D Printed Indoor Gauge Thermometer: View Acronyms TTL: Transistor–Transistor Logic CMOS: Complementary Metal–Oxide–Semiconductor Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

Had some time this weekend and a desire to create something new and interesting, so went ahead and created an Arduino/NodeMCU based indoor dial thermometer. This device displays the temperature in degree centigrade on a D-Shaped Gauge as well as on a 7-Segment display. In addition to that, it also saves the temperature and humidity readings in a MySQL DataBase hosted on a home based Raspberry Pi Server. The data is then displayed using the "Our Smart Home" app. Awards This project got featured on Cults3D and Instructables https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/arduino-based-indoor-dial-thermometer https://www.instructables.com/NodeMCU-Based-3D-Printed-Indoor-Gauge-Thermometer/ Components Required For this project we need: 2 x TM1637 Display Modules 1 x DHT22 or DHT11 Module 1 x NodeMCU Microcontroller 1 x 28BYJ-48 Stepper Motor with ULN2003 Driver Board 1 x 10K Resistor A 3D Printer Copper Wire and Some Nuts & Bolts Circuit Diagram The circuit is very simple. Connect the ULN2003 driver board’s IN1, IN2, IN3 and IN4 to the NodeMCUs digital pins D0, D1, D2 and D3. Then connect the OUT Pin of the DHT22 to the D5 Pin of NodeMCU. After that connect the 2 x Display Modules to the microcontroller. We are going to use a Common Clock Pin D4 for both modules. Then connect the DIO of one of the modules to D6 (TEMP) and the other one to D7 (HUM) pins on the NodeMCU. Important: Please avoid using the boot config pins D3, D4, D8 and the RTC pin D0 for the displays. Now, on the D8 Pin we are going to connect the switch. This switch has a very important role in this circuit. This switch acts as the 'home' or the 'starting point' of the stepper motor. When the switch is open Pin D8 is connected to GND through the pull-down resistor and we read a LOW. When the switch is closed, Pin D8 connects to 3.3v pin of NodeMCU and we read a HIGH. When the 'temperature changes' or the 'device boots up', the pointer starts moving 'counterclockwise'. As soon as the pointer hits the home position, Pin D8 reads HIGH and the logic moves the pointer 'clockwise' to display the temperature on the gauge as read by the DHT22 module. The Code The code starts by including all the necessary libraries. Then it defines all the variables needed for setting up the WiFi connection. Next, it assigns a static IP address to the ESP8266 (if you want to use DHCP then go ahead and delete these three lines from the code). After that, it sets up the 2 x URLs that are needed for updating the heartbeat, temperature and humidity. String URLUpdateStatus = "http://192.168.0.7/Arduino/Weather/UpdateStatus.php"; String URLUpdateTemp = "http://192.168.0.7/Arduino/Weather/UpdateTemperature.php"; Before going ahead let's have a quick look at the 2 php files. The "UpdateStutus.php" file uses an UPDATE query to update the timestamp of the device sending the request to the current epoch time and hence updating the heartbeat. <?PHP try { $Token = $_GET["Token"]; $Location = $_GET["Location"]; include "ConnectionStringArduino.php"; // Create connection $sql = 'Update `Status` SET `DateTime`=\''.time().'\',`State`=\'1\' WHERE `Device`=\''.$Location.'\' AND `Token` = \''.$Token.'\';'; $result = $con->query( $sql ); if($result === FALSE) { die(mysqli_error());} mysqli_close($con); } catch (Exception $e) {} ?> The "UpdateTemperature.php" uses an INSERT query to add a new row to the database with the current values of Temperature and Humidity. <?PHP try { $Location = $_GET["Location"]; $TEMP = $_GET["TEMP"]; $HUM = $_GET["HUM"]; include "ConnectionStringArduino.php"; // Create connection $sql = "INSERT INTO `Weather` (`DateTime`,`Temperature`,`Humidity`,`Location`) VALUES ('".time()."','".$TEMP."','".$HUM."','".$Location."');"; $result = $con->query( $sql ); if($result === FALSE) { die(mysqli_error());} mysqli_close($con); } catch (Exception $e) {} ?> This is what is written to the database and can be displayed using Google Charts, in my case, I am using the "Our Smart Home" app to display the data using php and JavaScript. Currently I am only displaying the data from the Study room and the Peg Box. To know more about my award winning "Peg Box" project please have a look at my electronics tutorial no. 34 "Peg Box with Temperature and Humidity Monitor using NodeMCU" (https://youtu.be/elH331NXPsU). After that, I am defining all the variables required for reading and storing the value of temperature and humidity. Next, I am defining all the variables and setting up any additional symbols required for displaying temperature and humidity on the TM1637 Display Module. After that, I am defining the D8 pin of the NodeMCU as the reset switch pin. We will talk about this in detail in the following sections. Next, I am setting up the Steps Per Revolution of the stepper motor as 2038 and then initializing the stepper library through pins D0 to D3. const int stepsPerRevolution = 2038; // Change this to fit the number of steps per revolution of your motor Stepper myStepper(stepsPerRevolution, D0, D2, D1, D3);// Initialize the stepper library on pins D0 through D3 One thing to note: since I need both clockwise and counterclockwise movements, I have to initialize the pins in the order shown on screen. Then in the setup() section, first I am setting up the WiFi connection and then sending a heartbeat to the server. Then I am setting up the brightness of the 7-Segments to their max values followed by starting the dht module and finally setting the pin-mode of the switch to INPUT. void setup() { Serial.begin(115200); // Initialize the serial port /*********** Setup a WiFi connection ***********/ if (WiFi.config(local_IP, gateway, subnet)) { Serial.println("Static IP Configured"); } else { Serial.println("Static IP Configuration Failed"); }; WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA); WiFi.begin(WIFI_SSID, WIFI_PWD); while (WiFi.status() != WL_CONNECTED) { delay(500); Serial.print("."); }; Serial.println("\nWiFi connected"); Serial.print("IP address: "); Serial.println(WiFi.localIP()); SendIamAlive(); // Send the initial wakeup message to the server /**********************************************/ display_TMP.setBrightness(7); // Set the display brightness (0-7) display_HUM.setBrightness(7); // Set the display brightness (0-7) dht.begin(); // Setup the DHT sensor pinMode(SWITCH, INPUT); // Declare the switch pin as input }; Now, in the loop() section I am reading the temperature using the Read_Temp() function and then sending the Temperature and Humidity values every 30 minutes and heartbeat every minute to the home server. void loop() { /** Read the temp and humidity info from ther sensor and display it on the 7-segmnet and Gauge **/ Read_Temp(); /** Sending Humidity and temperature every 30 minutes **/ if((millis() - lastTime) > timerDelay){ Serial.println("Sending Temp and Humidity");SendTemperatureAndHumidity(); lastTime = millis(); }; /** Sending I am alive message every minute **/ if((millis() - StatusCounter) > 60000){ Serial.println("Sending Heartbeat"); SendIamAlive(); StatusCounter = millis(); }; }; Next, you see the definition of the SendIamAlive() and SendTemperatureAndHumidity() functions which utilizes the WiFiConnect() function to send the values using the previously discussed URLs. The Read_Temp() function reads the temperature and humidity and updates the 7-Segment displays and moves the pointer only if there is a change in the values. The Move_Needle() function first sends the pointer to the home position using the Return_Home() function and then looks through and moves the pointer to the correct position until the stepCout is = STEPS. The value of STEPS is calculated based on the "stepsPerRevolution" which we previously set it up as 2038. So, 2038 / 2 (for half circle) = 1019 Now by dividing 1019 by 180 degrees we get the steps required to display each degree centigrade. Now to display each degree centigrade we need 180/60 = 3 divisions. Since our gauge starts from -10 and not 0 we also have to add the first 10 blocks which is (5.661 * 10 * 3) to our calculation. int STEPS = (5.661 * 3 * TEMP) + 169.833; // 5.661 (step resolution) * 3 (steps to display each °C) * TEMP + 169.833 (5.661 * 10 * 3) = since it starts from -10 and not 0) That's it as easy as that. 3D Designing Lets have a quick look at the 3D model of the project. At the front, we have The Pointer, D-Shaped Dial, and the Temperature Scale on the dial. Down at the bottom we have the Enclosure that will house the microcontroller and all other electronics components in it. The enclosure has a Lid to keep the electronic components safe and sound. At the back, we have a pocket to hold the DHT22 Module, 3 x holes for the stepper motor, 2 x groves for the TM1637 Display Module and 2 x L-Shaped Brackets to hold the top Dial to the bottom Enclosure. 3D Printing Once the 3D models were sorted, it was time for me to fire up my 3D printing oven and start printing these 3D models. I used: - 1.75mm Cold White PLA Filament, and printed the models with - 0.2mm - with 0% infill - and with support. As we all know, 3D printing is the process that uses computer-aided design or CAD, to create objects layer by layer. 3D printing is not a new technology, it's been there since the 1980's, when Charles W. Hull invented the process and created the first 3D-printed part. Since then, the field of 3D printing has grown exponentially and holds countless possibilities. The 3D printing process fascinates me a lot and I sometimes love to sit near my printer and watch these layers getting printed. The entire printing process took a little over 5 hours to complete and this is the final result. Alright now, let's start gluing all the printed parts. I first superglued the L-Shaped Brackets to the dial followed by the pocket that will hold the DHT22 module. Then, I went ahead and screwed the bottom enclosure to the top section via the L-Shaped Brackets. Breadboard Demo Before adding the electronic bits to the 3D printed bits, let's do a quick test to make sure everything works as expected. So, this 7-Segment display is displaying the temperature and the other one is displaying the humidity. The needle is currently going round and round in circles as it has no idea where to stop. To stop the needle, and to send it the correct position on the gauge, I need to connect this red jumper cable connected to 3.3v to the D8 Pin of the NodeMCU. Once I short the cable, the needle changes its direction and moves clockwise to display the temperature value read from the DHT22 module. The temperature and humidity values are also sent to the 'Home Server' which are then displayed using the "Our Smart Home" app. Coloring Using Acrylic colors, I painted all the 3D printed parts of the project. Assembling Once the coloring is done, its now time for me to put all the electronic components together. First I screwed the stepper motor to the back of the dial. Then, I gently pushed the DHT22 Module into its pocket at the back of the dial. Now the interesting bit. As per our previous discussion, we are going to use a copper wire as a switch that will move the pointer to its correct position. The copper wire will be fed through these two holes from the back and will loop through this small pipe like structure in the front. A small cut will be made on the top exposed side of the copper wire. Now on the pointer, we need to add a small piece of copper wire. When this copper bit touches the two copper wires on the pipe, it will complete the circuit and will send a HIGH to the system. Next, I am hot gluing the two TM1637 7-Segment Display Modules to the back of the dial. Once done, it's pretty much just a matter of soldering all the sensors to the NodeMCU as per our circuit diagram. Final Demo So, this is how my final setup looks like. Once the device is turned on, the pointer moves counterclockwise until it touches the copper wires that acts like a switch. Upon touching the wires the pointer moves clockwise to display the temperature value read from the DHT22 module on the D-Shaped Gauge. The temperature and humidity values are also displayed using 7-Segment Displays. The values are also sent over WiFi to a Raspberry Pi Home Server and stored in a MySQL database. Using google charts, you can display the data using various different graph options. In my case, I am using the "Our Smart Home" app to display the data using php and JavaScript. Thanks for watching, please comment and let me know if there are any scopes of improvement. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: Watch Full Blog Post: Visit Thermometer STLs: Download Peg Box: Watch How To Wire A Pushbutton: View Stepper Motor Specs: View Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca gain in my next tutorial.

A Gothic Lantern is a captivating piece of lighting that brings the allure of the Victorian Era into your home. The lantern is adorned with ornate top and bottom ornaments, reminiscent of the Gothic style that was prevalent during the Victorian Era. My curiosity to create something new and interesting got me into this gothic style rechargeable lantern. The design is both nostalgic and timeless, making the Gothic Lantern a perfect fit for homes that cherish a touch of historical charm. Watch this video for detailed step by step instructions on how to build this lantern and for a complete instruction on how the electronic circuit works inside the lantern. Downloading The STL Files I went online and searched for a "Gothic Lantern" and found a very popular design by Shira. The STL files were free to download from "Cults3D.com". It was literally a hard to resist 3D model. So, I went ahead and downloaded the lantern's STL files for my project. Modifying The STL Files The downloaded STL files only comes with the top and the body of the lantern. However, my aim is to add some electronics to the design to turn it into a rechargeable lantern. To achieve this, I created few more 3D models and added them to the design. I created a base that can hold an "18650 battery holder" and an "USB Type-A charging cable". I also created a "LED holder" that will go inside the body of the lantern. The LED holder has 10 x 5mm holes to hold the 10 white LEDs in it. It will also house the "TP4056 18650 Lithium battery charging module". I also created a "ring" that will go on top of the lantern. Holding this ring, you can go anywhere with this lantern. 3D printing Once the 3D models were sorted, it was time for me to fire up my 3D printing oven and start printing these 3D models. I used: - 1.75mm Cold White PLA Filament, and printed the models with - 0.2mm - with 0% infill - and with support. As we all know, 3D printing is the process that uses computer-aided design or CAD, to create objects layer by layer. 3D printing is not a new technology, its been there since 1980's, when Charles W. Hull invented the process and created the first 3D-printed part. Since then, the field of 3D printing has grown exponentially and holds countless possibilities. The 3D printing process fascinates me a lot and I sometimes love to sit near my printer and watch these layers getting printed. The entire printing process took a little over 53 hours and this was the final result. Circuit Diagram The circuit is very simple. A USB Type-A charging cable connects to the input of the TP4056 Module. The 18650 Battery connects to the B+ and B- terminals of the module. And finally, the LEDs connect parallelly to the OUT+ and OUT- terminals of the module with a push button switch connected to the +ve terminal. Using this switch we can turn on or off the lantern. Soldering Lets start by soldering the wires to the LEDs. As previously discussed, all these LEDs will be parallelly connected to each other. Next, I screwed the 18650 battery holder to the base of the lantern. After that, I superglued one of the LED holders to the base, and then one by one slided the LEDs into the holes of the LED holder. After that, I soldered the TP4056 module as per the circuit diagram. To conclude the setup, I pushed the remaining LEDs into the holes of the 2nd half of the LED holder and then superglued it to the base of the lantern. Coloring I wanted to give this lantern a "rustic wooden texture". For that I applied acrylic "Raw Sienna" and "Burnt Umber" to the body of the lantern. Final Assembly I wanted this lantern to have a soft illumination without any harsh light. So, I went ahead and used the white plastic of a milk bottle to give this lantern a defused lighting effect. I used metal pieces and magnets to stick the bottom plate to the base of the lantern. Once all the electronics bits were sorted, I screwed the body of the lantern to the base. Then to conclude the setup, I superglued the top to the body of the lantern, that's it all done. Demo So, this is how my final setup looks like. The red glow inside the lantern (bit hard to see in the bright sunlight), indicates that the battery is charging. Press the push button switch from the base of the lantern to turn it on or off. Do comment, and let me know if there are any scopes of improvement. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: Visit Full Blog Post: Visit Solar Battery Charger: Video Gothic Lantern STLs: Github Model inframe: Instagram Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca gain in my next tutorial.

The 555 timer IC is an integrated circuit (IC) that is used in a variety of timer, delay, pulse generator and oscillator circuits. In this tutorial, I am going to show you guys how to make an "Adjustable Delay Timer Circuit" using the 555 timer IC. This circuit can automatically turn on/off any circuit after a fixed duration. This timer circuit is useful when you need to power On/Off any AC Appliances after a pre-defined duration. For example, you can use this circuit to automatically turn off a mobile charger after a certain period of time to avoid over charging, or you can turn on/off a light bulb after a certain period. The time delay of this circuit can be adjusted by using various combinations of resistors and capacitors. Watch this video for detailed step by step instructions on how to build this circuit and to know how this circuit works. Components Required For this tutorial we need: A 555 Timer IC A Push Button Switch A Red And A Green LED 2 x 220Ohm Current Limiting Resistors 1 x 10K Resistor A Breadboard and Few Breadboard Connectors A 5V Power Supply A 470uF Capacitor And Few Combinations Of Resistors Or A Potentiometer 555 Timer IC In Monostable Mode Lets start by putting all the components together and lets understand how the circuit works. In the first example, I am going to show you guys the "on-off timer circuit" with a fixed timing Resistor and Capacitor. The heart of this circuit is the 555 timer IC. Pin No.1 of the IC is connected to GND. By connecting Pin 6 and 7 of the 555 timer IC, we put the IC in "Monostable Mode". In Monostable Mode, the output of the IC is stable in "One State", and it will always return to this state after a certain period of time when it gets pushed out of that state. The output at Pin 3 of the 555 Timer IC in monostable mode is generally LOW - indicated by the green LED. When you trigger the circuit using the push button switch, the output goes HIGH - indicated by the red LED, for a certain period of time before it goes back to its LOW state. The time the circuit stays HIGH is decided by the value of a resistor R1 and a capacitor C1. The higher the values, the longer it stays HIGH (On). To adjust the timer duration "on-the-fly", the timing Resistor R1 can be replaced by a Potentiometer. By changing the value of the resistance of the potentiometer we can either increase or decrease the duration of the timer. Logic Using Circuit Simulation Alright, now I am going to explain how this circuit works with the help of an animation. When Pin 2 of the IC detects voltage LESS than 1/3rd of the supply voltage, it turns ON the output on Pin3. And, when Pin6 detects voltage MORE than 2/3rds of the supply voltage, it turns OFF the output. Whenever the output of the IC is in OFF state, the Discharge Pin (Pin7) acts as ground, as it is internally grounded. This is how the trigger pin (Pin2) and the threshold pin (Pin6) of the 555 timer IC sense voltages and controls the output at Pin3. When we power on the circuit, the output is in OFF state. Hence, the discharge pin (Pin7) will be internally grounded discharging the capacitor. Pressing the push button switch activates the delay timer and the following sequence starts: Trigger Pin (Pin2) gets grounded Since this applied voltage at Pin2 (0V) is less than 1/3rd of the supply voltage (5V), the output at Pin3 turns ON And at the same time, the Discharge Pin (Pin7) disconnects internally from 0V This causes the capacitor to charge via the resistor or potentiometer Now, the voltage across Pin6 starts increasing As soon as the capacitor charges to 2/3rds of the supply voltage, Pin6 turns OFF the output When the output turns OFF, Pin7 gets internally grounded discharging the capacitor. The above steps are repeated each time you push the push button switch. The time period for which the capacitor charges from 0V to 2/3rds of supply voltage is the "delay time". Calculations A discussed earlier, the time period for which the capacitor charges from 0V to 2/3rds of supply voltage is the "delay time". We can calculate this time using the formula: T = 1.1 * R * C Where T is the time period in seconds, R is the value of timing resistor in ohms and C is the value of the capacitor in Farad. In the previous example we used a 33K resistor and 470uF capacitor which gives us a delay period of: T = 1.1 * (33000) * (0.000470) = 17 seconds. The Board To make things easy, I designed a PCB for this setup. So, this is how my PCB looks like in 2D and 3D. You can either add a resistance or a potentiometer to the board to control the delay time. I have created 2 versions of this board: V1: Without A Relay Module V2: With A Relay Module Using the board with the relay module, you can control other DC Circuits or AC Appliances. For a quick reference, I added the delay period calculator on the board. Soldering Alright, now, lets solder the components to the board. In this setup, I am going to solder a potentiometer to the board and hence I will leave the resistor bit as is. So, lets start by soldering all the resistances to the board. Then, lets solder the LEDs to the board followed by the Push Button Switch. After that, lets solder the IC base and the capacitor to the board. As discussed earlier, instead of the resistor I am soldering a Potentiometer to the board. To finalize the setup, I am soldering few male pin headers to the board, that's it all done. The 2nd version of the board with the relay module looks like this. Demo For the demo purpose, I am going to use the board that has the relay module on it. Using this board, I can demo both the operation of the relay and the LEDs. Lets set the resistance of the potentiometer to a desired value and then lets do the quick math to see how long this circuit will stay on. Alright, now that we have all the values, lets start the timer on my mobile and press the push button switch both at the same time............. Bingo, mission accomplished. You can use the relay in either NC or NO state in your project. Uses This Delay Timer Circuit can be used as a: Timer for any robotics project Turning off mobile chargers to prevent overcharging Turning On/Off lights automatically after a set duration In Auto power On/Off circuits using Relays and more.. The possibilities are endless.. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 PCBWay 6th Project Design Contest: https://www.pcbway.com/activity/6th-project-design-contest.html Video: Visit Full Blog Post: Visit DIY - Relay Module: Video Schema: Download Circuit: Download Gerber Files: GitHub Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca gain in my next tutorial. Tags ---- on-off timer circuit, Adjustable Delay Timer Circuit, 555 Timer Project, Breadboard Demo, Monostable Mode, astable mode, bistable mode, one-shot circuit, Circuit Simulation, relay Module NC. relay Module NO, 555 Adjustable Delay On Off Timer Circuit, circuit diagram, 555 IC, adjustable on off relay module, delay timer, time delay relay, off delay timer, Odysee: https://odysee.com/@Arduino:7/555-Adjustable-Delay-On-Off-Timer-Circuit:2 Cos: https://cos.tv/videos/play/48667261956559872 Rumble: https://rumble.com/v3w7p5k-555-adjustable-delay-on-off-timer-circuit.html

Nice

When the full moon is shining and the wolves are howling, it's time for Halloween's spooky spectacle. The snickering grins of jack-o'-lanterns glow from lit porches. Kids skip down the block in spooky costumes, carrying bags full of candy and shouting "Trick or Treat!". The Nightmare Before Christmas is almost here... Do you see dead people??? Alright Enough of that, in this Spooktacular video I am going to create an Arduino based 3D printed Halloween Décor. It's super easy, fun and spooky.... 3D Printing 3D Printing is a highly addictive hobby! This is the very first time I am using my 3D printer to print something electronics related. The STL files used in this project are all downloaded from www.Thingiverse.com. I have uploaded a copy of all the 3D Objects to my GitHub repository, the link is in the description below. 3D printing has changed my life. There are so many things you can do using a 3D printer. From designing 3D Models to printing them using the 3D printer has now become my new hobby. I've been a "maker" since I was 10 years old, and have always constructed and made my own stuff. 3D printing for me is a blessing. I am totally lost in the 3D printing heaven. 3D printing has changed my electronics workshop life forever. Before when I used to order parts, I always used to wonder if the parts would fit into my projects resources... but after I got my 3D printer... it doesn't matter at all, because if it doesn't fit - I could design and print it myself. The 3D printer was definitely "The Missing Piece" from my electronics workshop. Schematic Diagram Now that we have all our 3D Models printed, lets have a look at the component assembly. The assembly is super simple. We just need to connect 4 Yellow LEDs to D2, D3, D4 and D5 pins of Arduino via 220ohm current limiting resistor. Then connect the white LED to Analogue Pin D10 of the Arduino via a current limiting resistor. That's it, as simple as that. The Code Now, lets have a look at the code that will drive the LEDs. Lets start by defining all the variables. Then in the setup section lets define all the pin modes. To flash the LEDs I chose 5 different Flashing patterns: 1. All LEDs Flash Very Fast For 10 Seconds 2. All LEDs Flash Slowly For 10 Seconds 3. 2 LEDs Turn On and 2 LEDs Turn Off for 10 seconds 4. LED Chaser Circuit for 10 seconds 5. One LED Randomly Turn On for 10 seconds The switch statement in the loop() section randomly picks up one of these patterns and runs it for 10 seconds. The white LED also fades in and out after every cycle. At the bottom of the code, I have defined all these 5 LED flashing patter in their respective functions. Demo on Breadboard After loading the code on an Arduino Nano this is how it looks like. The white LED will go inside the Ghost and the Yellow LEDs will go inside the Pumpkins. Humm, that looks promising, isn't it? Assembling Let's start by soldering the wires to the LEDs. Then lets solder the Arduino Nano to a perf-board and then solder all the resistors to the board. Next, lets soldered the LEDs to the D2, D3, D4, D5 and D10 pins of the Arduino via the current limiting resistors. That's all you have to do for the electronics bit. Now, let's hot glue the perf-board inside the coffin, followed by all the LEDs to a wooden block. Before putting the 3D printed components on the LEDs, let's do a quick test to verify everything works as expected. Look at that... Now, one by one lets hot glue the 3D printed components to the plank. To finalize the setup, I added a few dry grass leaves to hide the wirings. That's it all done. Final Demo So this is how my final setup looks like. Do comment and let me know if there are any scopes of improvement. Until then, Happy Halloween.... Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: Visit Full Blog Post: Visit Code: Download Schema: Download STL Files: Coffin: Download RIP: Download Pumpkins: Download Pikachu: Download Ghost: Download Instructables: https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printed-Arduino-Halloween-Décor/ Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca gain in my next tutorial.

Proximity sensing is a very common application in electronics. There are several ways to accomplish this. The most common way is by using a PIR sensor. PIR Sensor senses the change in ambient infrared radiation caused by warm bodies. I have already covered this in my Tutorial No. 5: "PIR Sensor Tutorial - With or Without Arduino". However, since PIR sensors detect movement from living objects, they can generate false alarms. These sensors are also inefficient in hot environments, as they rely on heat signatures. The other common methods of proximity sensing involve, using reflected ultrasonic or light beams. Using these sensors, the intruding object is detected by the reflected beam back to its source. The time delay between transmission and reception is measured to calculate the distance to the object. In this tutorial, we are going to look at another method of proximity sensing using "Microwaves" and "Doppler Effect". In my hand is an inexpensive RCWL-0516 Microwave Radar Motion Sensor. The RCWL-0516 microwave sensor detects "any movement" from "any object" and does not rely on heat, making it more reliable in hot environments. I am going to use this sensor to create a Geo-fence around my house to detect motion and get notifications. What is the Doppler effect? The RCWL-0516 module uses a “Doppler Radar” that makes use of the "Doppler Effect" to detect motion and trigger proximity alerts. So, before understand how the RCWL-0516 sensor works, let’s understand the Doppler Effect. The Doppler effect, is named after the Austrian physicist Christian Doppler, who described this phenomenon in 1842. He described the change in frequency observed by a stationary observer when the source of the frequency is moving. The sound's pitch is higher than the emitted frequency when the sound source approaches the observer as the sound waves are squeezed into shorter distance (bunched together), which can be heard as a higher pitch. The opposite happens when the object moves away from the observer, causing the sound waves to become lower in frequency and lower in pitch (spread out). As a result, the observer can hear a noticeable drop in the pitch as it passes. This holds true for all sorts of waves, such as water, light, radio, and sound. How Does The RCWL-0516 Works? Like the PIR Sensors, these sensors also detects only movements within their detection range. But instead of sniffing the blackbody radiation of a moving object, these sensors uses a “Microwave Doppler Radar” technique to detect a moving object. Doppler microwave detection devices transmit a continuous signal of low-energy microwave radiation at a target area and then analyze the reflected signal. The target’s velocity can be measured by analyzing how the target’s motion altered the frequency of the transmitted signal. Due to Dopplers effect, the frequency of reflected microwave signal is different from the transmitted signal when an object is moving towards or away from the sensor. When a car approaches a speed trap radar, the frequency of the returned signal is greater than the frequency of the transmitted signal, and when the car moves away, the frequency is lower. This is how a speed gun calculates the speed of the car. Technical Specifications The technical specifications of this sensor are listed below: Operating Voltage: 4-28V (typically 5V) Detection Distance: 5-7 Meters Maximum Current Drawn: ~ 2.7 mA Operating Frequency: ~ 3.18 GHz Transmission Power: 20 mW (typical)/30 mW (max) Signal length: ~ 2s Regulated Output: 3.3V, 100mA RCWL-0516 Module Pin outs The RCWL0516 module is a single breakout board with the following connections: 3V3 : it is the "output" from the onboard 3.3V regulator which can be used to power external circuits. Remember, this is not an input pin. This pin can provide up to 100mA of current. GND : is the ground pin. OUT : is the 3.3V TTL logic output. This pin goes HIGH for 2seconds when a motion is detected and goes LOW when no motion is detected. The output of this module is "analog" and can be connected to an analog input of a micro controller and sampled by an ADC. The output voltage is roughly proportional to the distance between the sensor and the object. VIN : provides power to the module. Connect this pin to an input voltage anywhere between 4 to 28V (however, 5V is commonly used). This module consumes less than 3mA of current so, you can easily power this by the 5V output from an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi. CDS : pins are where you attach an optional LDR (light dependent resistor) allowing it to operate only in the dark. You can connect the LDR to the sensor in two ways: * By using the two CDS pads on the top of the module. * Or by connecting one end of the LDR to the CDS pin at the terminal end, and the other end to the ground. We will cover this in the details in the demo section. Remember, this module comes without any connecting pins attached to it. What does CDS stand for? CDS stands for Cadmium Sulphide, which is the photoactive component in LDRs. Because of this, LDRs are sometimes called CDS photoresistors. The RCWL-9196 IC Unlike the PIR sensor, this is an active sensor (Active sensors send out a pulse of energy and detect the changes in the return signal). The module sends out microwaves signals actively at a frequency of about 3.18 GHz and measures the reflected signals. The heart of the module is a doppler radar controller IC "RCWL-9196". This IC is very similar to the BISS0001 IC found in the PIR sensors. The chip also supports "repeat triggers" and has a "360-degree detection area without blind spots". Microwave Antenna and RF Power Amplifier The MMBR941M RF amplifier is a high-speed NPN transistor "Q1" that takes low-power RF signal and boosts it to a higher power level. The antenna is integrated on the PCB. It has a detection range of approximately "7 Meters" while only consuming less than "3mA of current". When triggered, the output (OUT) pin will switches from LOW (0V) to HIGH (3.3V) for 2 to 3 seconds before returning to its idle (LOW) state. The transistor Q1 also acts as a mixer that combines the transmitted and received signal and outputs the difference which is filtered by the low pass filter formed by C9 and R8, and is amplified by the IC. Jumper Settings The module has 3 jumper settings at the back of it. The sensors default settings can be altered, by populating these jumpers with appropriate resistors and capacitors: C-TM : (Pulse length Adjustment) By installing a suitable SMD capacitor you can adjust the repeat trigger time by extending the output pulse length. Default trigger time is 2s. Increasing capacitor's capacity will make repeat trigger time longer. A 0.2µF capacitor extends the output pulse to 50s, while 1µF extends it to 250s. R-GN : (Detection Range Adjustment) By installing a suitable resistor you can reduce the detection range. The default detection range is 7m. If you install a 1M resistor the distance reduces to 5m, while a 270K resistor reduces it to 1.5m. R-CDS : (Light Sensitivity Adjustment) You can use this as an alternative to soldering the LDR. Any resistor between 47K – 100K will suffice. The lower the value, the brighter the light must be in order to disable the trigger. Demo Demo 1: Basic Setup This sensor is capable of working on its own even without a microcontroller. In my first example I am going to show you guys how useful it is on its own. The wiring is very simple, you just need to connect the sensor's VIN and GND to a power supply between 4-28V. Then connect a LED to the OUT pin via a 220Ω current limiting resistor. That’s it, as easy as that. Now, when the module senses motion, the red LED lights up for about two seconds when the OUT pin of the sensor goes “HIGH”. You can replace the LED with a relay module if you want to turn something ON/OFF based on motion. Demo 2: Connecting an LDR The setup is exactly same as the previous one with an addition of an LDR. As discussed earlier, you can either connect the LDR to the two CDS pads on the top of the sensor, or attach one leg of the LDR to the CDS pin at the bottom of the module and the other one to GND. LDRs don't have polarity, so they can be connected in any direction of your choice. When the LDR is exposed to light the resistance of the LDR decreases, and you will notice that the sensor produces no output. However, the sensor resumes normal operation once the room is darkened. This property of the sensor can be used in spotting intruders at night or controlling lights in a room. Demo 3: Connecting an Arduino While this module works well on its own, it also works well as a sensor when hooked up to a microcontroller or a microcomputer. In this example, I am going to light up an LED using an Arduino when the sensor senses a motion. Power the sensor from the 5v pin of the Arduino and connect the OUT pin to pin 2 of the Arduino. Now, connect an LED to pin no 3 of the Arduino via a 220Ω current limiting resistor. Upload the code and swipe your hand over the sensor. The red LED lights up and the serial monitor displays the message "Motion Detected" when the sensor detects a motion. Demo 4: Sending Motion Alerts Over RF or WiFi You can do all sorts of funky stuff using this sensor. You can attach this module to a nodeMCU or a NRF20L01 transceiver module or to a 433MHz RF transmitter/receiver module to send the detected motion information as a notification to a mobile device or save it in a database. Advantage and Disadvantages Advantages Very cheap and compact. The PCB itself is less than 4mm thick They can penetrate through walls and holes allowing them to have a wide detection range Radar signals can penetrate non-conductive materials such as plastic and wood allowing them to be hidden or protected from accidental damage These sensors can work perfectly behind 18mm thick pieces of pine wood, 50mm thick hardback book with no obvious reduction in sensitivity These sensors are safe. They put out very low levels of microwaves at 3.2GHz They are not effected by heat much and have better detection rate than traditional IR sensors They are incredibly sensitive to movement and can detect small movements very easily Disadvantages Since these sensors rely on a Doppler radar system, signal reflections from other nearby objects can interfere with the measurement, making it less reliable and accurate than other sensors These sensor and all its leads needs to be rigidly mounted. If the connecting leads are subject to movement or vibration, they will trigger the sensor These sensors don't work behind normal standard double glazing panels The reflections from metals can also influence the measurements They can be triggered by the wind You can use Aluminum foils to block the microwave signals from the sensor Uses Burglar alarm Intruder detection Smart security devices Human sensing toys Geofencing Halloween props Sensing people/animals through walls even without light Security and motion sensing light switches Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: Visit Full Blog Post: Visit Code: Download Datasheet: Download Schema: Download Other Links: PIR Sensor Tutorial - With or Without Arduino: YouTube DIY Relay Module: YouTube All About nRF24L01 Modules: YouTube DIY - NodeMCU Development Board: YouTube Contactless Wireless Door Bell Using Arduino: YouTube Doppler Effect: Wikipedia Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca gain in my next tutorial.

Thanks mate

Thanks a lot mate