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A Gothic Lantern is a captivating piece of lighting that brings the allure of the Victorian Era into your home. The lantern is adorned with ornate top and bottom ornaments, reminiscent of the Gothic style that was prevalent during the Victorian Era. My curiosity to create something new and interesting got me into this gothic style rechargeable lantern. The design is both nostalgic and timeless, making the Gothic Lantern a perfect fit for homes that cherish a touch of historical charm. Watch this video for detailed step by step instructions on how to build this lantern and for a complete instruction on how the electronic circuit works inside the lantern. Downloading The STL Files I went online and searched for a "Gothic Lantern" and found a very popular design by Shira. The STL files were free to download from "Cults3D.com". It was literally a hard to resist 3D model. So, I went ahead and downloaded the lantern's STL files for my project. Modifying The STL Files The downloaded STL files only comes with the top and the body of the lantern. However, my aim is to add some electronics to the design to turn it into a rechargeable lantern. To achieve this, I created few more 3D models and added them to the design. I created a base that can hold an "18650 battery holder" and an "USB Type-A charging cable". I also created a "LED holder" that will go inside the body of the lantern. The LED holder has 10 x 5mm holes to hold the 10 white LEDs in it. It will also house the "TP4056 18650 Lithium battery charging module". I also created a "ring" that will go on top of the lantern. Holding this ring, you can go anywhere with this lantern. 3D printing Once the 3D models were sorted, it was time for me to fire up my 3D printing oven and start printing these 3D models. I used: - 1.75mm Cold White PLA Filament, and printed the models with - 0.2mm - with 0% infill - and with support. As we all know, 3D printing is the process that uses computer-aided design or CAD, to create objects layer by layer. 3D printing is not a new technology, its been there since 1980's, when Charles W. Hull invented the process and created the first 3D-printed part. Since then, the field of 3D printing has grown exponentially and holds countless possibilities. The 3D printing process fascinates me a lot and I sometimes love to sit near my printer and watch these layers getting printed. The entire printing process took a little over 53 hours and this was the final result. Circuit Diagram The circuit is very simple. A USB Type-A charging cable connects to the input of the TP4056 Module. The 18650 Battery connects to the B+ and B- terminals of the module. And finally, the LEDs connect parallelly to the OUT+ and OUT- terminals of the module with a push button switch connected to the +ve terminal. Using this switch we can turn on or off the lantern. Soldering Lets start by soldering the wires to the LEDs. As previously discussed, all these LEDs will be parallelly connected to each other. Next, I screwed the 18650 battery holder to the base of the lantern. After that, I superglued one of the LED holders to the base, and then one by one slided the LEDs into the holes of the LED holder. After that, I soldered the TP4056 module as per the circuit diagram. To conclude the setup, I pushed the remaining LEDs into the holes of the 2nd half of the LED holder and then superglued it to the base of the lantern. Coloring I wanted to give this lantern a "rustic wooden texture". For that I applied acrylic "Raw Sienna" and "Burnt Umber" to the body of the lantern. Final Assembly I wanted this lantern to have a soft illumination without any harsh light. So, I went ahead and used the white plastic of a milk bottle to give this lantern a defused lighting effect. I used metal pieces and magnets to stick the bottom plate to the base of the lantern. Once all the electronics bits were sorted, I screwed the body of the lantern to the base. Then to conclude the setup, I superglued the top to the body of the lantern, that's it all done. Demo So, this is how my final setup looks like. The red glow inside the lantern (bit hard to see in the bright sunlight), indicates that the battery is charging. Press the push button switch from the base of the lantern to turn it on or off. Do comment, and let me know if there are any scopes of improvement. Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: Visit Full Blog Post: Visit Solar Battery Charger: Video Gothic Lantern STLs: Github Model inframe: Instagram Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca gain in my next tutorial.

When the full moon is shining and the wolves are howling, it's time for Halloween's spooky spectacle. The snickering grins of jack-o'-lanterns glow from lit porches. Kids skip down the block in spooky costumes, carrying bags full of candy and shouting "Trick or Treat!". The Nightmare Before Christmas is almost here... Do you see dead people??? Alright Enough of that, in this Spooktacular video I am going to create an Arduino based 3D printed Halloween Décor. It's super easy, fun and spooky.... 3D Printing 3D Printing is a highly addictive hobby! This is the very first time I am using my 3D printer to print something electronics related. The STL files used in this project are all downloaded from www.Thingiverse.com. I have uploaded a copy of all the 3D Objects to my GitHub repository, the link is in the description below. 3D printing has changed my life. There are so many things you can do using a 3D printer. From designing 3D Models to printing them using the 3D printer has now become my new hobby. I've been a "maker" since I was 10 years old, and have always constructed and made my own stuff. 3D printing for me is a blessing. I am totally lost in the 3D printing heaven. 3D printing has changed my electronics workshop life forever. Before when I used to order parts, I always used to wonder if the parts would fit into my projects resources... but after I got my 3D printer... it doesn't matter at all, because if it doesn't fit - I could design and print it myself. The 3D printer was definitely "The Missing Piece" from my electronics workshop. Schematic Diagram Now that we have all our 3D Models printed, lets have a look at the component assembly. The assembly is super simple. We just need to connect 4 Yellow LEDs to D2, D3, D4 and D5 pins of Arduino via 220ohm current limiting resistor. Then connect the white LED to Analogue Pin D10 of the Arduino via a current limiting resistor. That's it, as simple as that. The Code Now, lets have a look at the code that will drive the LEDs. Lets start by defining all the variables. Then in the setup section lets define all the pin modes. To flash the LEDs I chose 5 different Flashing patterns: 1. All LEDs Flash Very Fast For 10 Seconds 2. All LEDs Flash Slowly For 10 Seconds 3. 2 LEDs Turn On and 2 LEDs Turn Off for 10 seconds 4. LED Chaser Circuit for 10 seconds 5. One LED Randomly Turn On for 10 seconds The switch statement in the loop() section randomly picks up one of these patterns and runs it for 10 seconds. The white LED also fades in and out after every cycle. At the bottom of the code, I have defined all these 5 LED flashing patter in their respective functions. Demo on Breadboard After loading the code on an Arduino Nano this is how it looks like. The white LED will go inside the Ghost and the Yellow LEDs will go inside the Pumpkins. Humm, that looks promising, isn't it? Assembling Let's start by soldering the wires to the LEDs. Then lets solder the Arduino Nano to a perf-board and then solder all the resistors to the board. Next, lets soldered the LEDs to the D2, D3, D4, D5 and D10 pins of the Arduino via the current limiting resistors. That's all you have to do for the electronics bit. Now, let's hot glue the perf-board inside the coffin, followed by all the LEDs to a wooden block. Before putting the 3D printed components on the LEDs, let's do a quick test to verify everything works as expected. Look at that... Now, one by one lets hot glue the 3D printed components to the plank. To finalize the setup, I added a few dry grass leaves to hide the wirings. That's it all done. Final Demo So this is how my final setup looks like. Do comment and let me know if there are any scopes of improvement. Until then, Happy Halloween.... Thanks Thanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you. If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3 Video: Visit Full Blog Post: Visit Code: Download Schema: Download STL Files: Coffin: Download RIP: Download Pumpkins: Download Pikachu: Download Ghost: Download Instructables: https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printed-Arduino-Halloween-Décor/ Support My Work BTC: 1Hrr83W2zu2hmDcmYqZMhgPQ71oLj5b7v5 LTC: LPh69qxUqaHKYuFPJVJsNQjpBHWK7hZ9TZ DOGE: DEU2Wz3TK95119HMNZv2kpU7PkWbGNs9K3 ETH: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 BAT: 0x9D9E77cA360b53cD89cc01dC37A5314C0113FFc3 LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2 COS: bnb136ns6lfw4zs5hg4n85vdthaad7hq5m4gtkgf23 Memo: 572187879 BNB: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 MATIC: 0xD64fb51C74E0206cB6702aB922C765c68B97dCD4 Thanks, ca gain in my next tutorial.