No other cables were loose, however it turned out that the check switch had failed - I guess that is what got zapped when the sparks flew. I jumped node 12 to node 8 (see post #8) and the motor turned on. This ensured me that the timer was functioning (at least partially - i didn't work it through all of its ranges). Power was coming in from L1 red wire and was passing through to 12 via the lid switch. With the lid lifted, the potential dropped considerably. Both 8 and 9 were measuring around 28VAC when they should have had 120VAC on them. Looking further on to the schematic, that left the check switch which was giving no continuity on the n.o. side (when actuated or not) and the n.c. side was giving 28MΩ actuated or not. There was some carbonizing on one of the tabs of the switch.
I hope that this is where the buck stops, literally!! LOL at least the switch was only ~$15. Let you know next tuesday when I install it
I hope that this is where the buck stops, literally!! LOL at least the switch was only ~$15. Let you know next tuesday when I install it
Voltage measurements depend on where you are measuring ...should be from Line to neutral initially and from other points through the circuit to the neutral.
Therein lies a problem that only experience or knowledge of exactly what the flow process is in the machine operation can overcome.
This is caused by the fact that there is a mass of neutral switching that could throw you off course and make you believe there is a problem when there isn't.
As an example, assessment of the reading on 8 seems right (fault condition) but reading on 9 cannot be as it is switched neutral.
Other than that, your finding with the check switch is viable.
Aways difficult to say from a distance as there are a lot of variables that affect the outcome.
Therein lies a problem that only experience or knowledge of exactly what the flow process is in the machine operation can overcome.
This is caused by the fact that there is a mass of neutral switching that could throw you off course and make you believe there is a problem when there isn't.
As an example, assessment of the reading on 8 seems right (fault condition) but reading on 9 cannot be as it is switched neutral.
Other than that, your finding with the check switch is viable.
Aways difficult to say from a distance as there are a lot of variables that affect the outcome.
Check, that is what I did - I had line voltage (120vac) on the wire marked RD which confirmed that the Pull/Push was making contact and had continuity. This is the source of the potential to ground and measured 120vac to neutral (which in this case is the ground center conductor of a three prong 240vac plug).
I am not sure that I follow the logic on that since 8 and 9 are both hot (120vac) - The path starts at Line through the push/pull, through the lid switch, through the check switch, through the overload protector, they are tied together in the schematic in the motor (which works so the overload is good). I tested continuity from the ground plug to the wire marked GY at the top of the schematic and found it to be good - thus the neutral return through the switch was good (at least wherever the switch was rotated to). When I found that I had 120vac on orange 12, I knew the lid switch was good, the fact that BK M(8) and 9 had only 28vac confirmed in my mind that the switch was bad, jumpering from orange 12 to 8 made the machine start and the switched failed continuity test and had very high resistance. I thought that was pretty definitive. I hope you are not jinxing me now!
see the red arrow under "Timer Buss", below the circle with coil in it, the node is marked TM M BK and goes into the connector at position 8
I see your confusion now LOL - sorry - look at the yellow line, it is partially obscuring wire 9 WH. I think you can see how they are connected now.
Maytag was kind enough to label the wires with their terminal locations, so the White wire is actually labelled 9 and goes to the 7th pin location of the connector. (Numbers Indicate Location of Wire in Housing).
Can you see the connection between the wire marked BK and WH now?
I hope so too. It seems a logical conclusion from the diagnosis, whether there is further damage to the timer is unknown until the check switch is replaced and a load run on the different cycles.
Replaced the check switch and machine partially ran - i.e. motor runs, but no water from solenoids when rotating timer through its functions. Further examination found a blown fuse - replaced and machine works as it should.
Thanks to all for the help, glad it was not the timer module!
Thanks to all for the help, glad it was not the timer module!
Similar threads
