Long STory short... my Makita 6500 heat gun that's had bugger all use was loaned to a mate who used it to melt a candle. Don't even ask. I've been told he held the nozzle of the heat gun into an upside down glass container to melt the candle, and then after letting the wax partly cool he started the process again. I've been told at some point there quick escape of wax from the glass and the heat gun cut out. The motor runs on both speed settings, but the element and gun display are notworking. I've included images of the gun so you can see the model, and a video of me switching the gun on and off. I understand it could be anything but the element ir maybe some other part. I can take it apart and I have a multimeter, but I wouldn't have a clue where to start with testing this for repair. I can't afford to buy another unit, so if I can't repair this one I've lost the use of that tool, and no my ex mate isn't coming to the table to replace the heat gun. At least not yet. I will be very grateful for any help wisdom or magic anybody can offer that'd see the heat gun fixed. I can dissasemble it and take photos if required. Thanks
Delta Prime
- Jul 29, 2020
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- Jul 29, 2020
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Sounds a lot like it's blown the element which is an "assembly".
Best take it to an authorised Makita repairer for a quote and to repair.
Oh, and lesson here is, NEVER lend your tools to ANYONE, relatives and so-called "mates " moreso.
Best take it to an authorised Makita repairer for a quote and to repair.
Oh, and lesson here is, NEVER lend your tools to ANYONE, relatives and so-called "mates " moreso.
Thanks bluejets. The two things I've cme across that most guns seem to fault with are the elements and a part that like a thermo fuse, I forget the parts name, but I couldn't identify that, or i did identify it and did a continuity test on it as per the video I watched and it checked out as OK, but I was hoping for some guidance. I will take some more detailed pics of the guts of the unit and see if anybody can spot anything. Thanks for the reply. I have seen the element for sale at about [imath]50. the gun was[/imath]160 when I bought it. I've seen repair vids on elements, so if I can fix it without incurring the cost of an element that'd be awesome, ALL advice is apprecited.
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Last time I looked, these sort of things don't take kindly to "twist and tape".
There usually is some description of a thermal overload internally but it will usually take the shape of either a bi-metal contact (old days) to a thermal fuse as shown below.
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OK. Here's an update of the disassembled unit. I've exposed the the thermal fuse in one of the images. Somebody said to continuity check it? - So I will do that, but more generally I've inspected the element and it kind of looks OK. Like I said before the fan motor is working on both settings, so the swicth is working - at least to power the fan motor, would there be something powering the rest of the unit from the on switch? - All advice is welcome. The advice thhat helps me fox this is really welcome. Thanks folks for you patince and help with this. The images are in no particular order, and I can take more images if you need a close up or something from a different angle.
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Thermal fuse most likely the one in pic 040 and 912.
Failing that, as I said element blown or failing that, the pcb control for the element is cactus.
Note that any test for good must be via meter measurement otherwise you just waste everyones time.
Failing that, as I said element blown or failing that, the pcb control for the element is cactus.
Note that any test for good must be via meter measurement otherwise you just waste everyones time.
OK, Thanks Bluejets. I hear what you've said about wasting time, and I do have some ability, limited, but some. I tested across the fuse and it is not blown, using the continutity setting on a multimeter. I've done a visual inspection on the element and I can't see any damage, no breaks that I can see. I checked the continuity between the top of the element hook, that on my unit clips onto a ceramic clip at the nozzle end of the gun, and the red wire on the PCB, which is where I traced it back to, and it's continuous. The top side of that connection on the PCB looks gammy, but I think that's just how it might be, like a sealant of sorts. When I check continiuty for the red conenction I also check it off the black one, and I am getting continuity on this connection also, should that be the case? - If there is a PCB test that I can do I'd be grateful for a heads up. With the Display not working, how can I check the board for a short? - with limited tools?
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Here is a closer images of the temp controller board, and the other board between the swicth and temp board and also connects to the element, and lastly that black circle that's wrapped in something, dunno what it is, bu I doubt it's failed because it's wrapped, which is why it's probably the broken part. All help appreciated.
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Seems you are trying to get some measurement from pic 09 with a black probe under the thermocouple bulb.....good luck with that.
Photo 22 appears as an anti surge device often placed in motors and heaters etc. to limit initial inrush current. In this instance on the heaters common.
What readings did you get on the heater elements, considering there appears to be two in all.??
Photo 22 appears as an anti surge device often placed in motors and heaters etc. to limit initial inrush current. In this instance on the heaters common.
What readings did you get on the heater elements, considering there appears to be two in all.??
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