If you have a clamp meter, you can use that at each connection.
Failing that, sounds like an ATX PSU with thousands of wires all coming from the same point on the PCB to simply be distributed.
That is of course another option.
But using a secondary remote still makes it huge and loads of wiring. Deciphering the code could make it a lot easier but is probably a huge task in itself.
Sometimes, KISS, (keep it simple..) is the easiest and cheapest way. If the unit turns on via the main...
Put your meter in series with the supply wiring. Also remember to change the probes to Amps connections.’
The kind of connector you have with parallel wiring is typical of using’in house’ components already bought and re-using them. Or a few are used to save pennies from altering input stages...
If you have plenty of batteries, parallel two or three of them to increase the current by two or three times. Remember, you can’t get more than you put in (minus losses). 8 or 10 batteries in parallel, 8 or 10 times the current = 8 or 10 times ‘run time’.
Martin
That would work but also make the remote control very cumbersome. But necessary for FULL control.
If the units power switch (at least) turns it on low or similar state, then an automated relay could be used to simply power the unit on and off remotely via the mains supply.
Martin
There is the question already asked by @kellys_eye .
Does it turn on in last state?.
Also does it require a touch button to turn it on or a switch that if left on and disconnected then reconnected to mains power, would it come on?.
Martin
I think that’s the most important question.
As there are tonnes of home automation devices ready to use. From older X10, Byron, Ripple to more recent Alexa etc.
Martin
Possible a rotary encoder.
Here’s a description of the difference between encoder, potentiometer and how the work.
https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/encoder-vs-potentiometer-how-to-choose
Martin
Ok. First, you need to test the Xbox on another TV to rule that out.
And the Xbox lead that connects to the TV.
Once you’re happy that it’s definitely the Xbox, we can go forward by testing the outputs on the Xbox itself.
Martin
Siri, call security. I did, I called Alexa.
Alexa called Microsoft, Microsoft called Trump, Trump called Rishi,
Now the whole world knows. Should have paid your monthly subscription to the device you bought and own:);)
Also, just viewing the other photos, there are many points that look like the traces have been scraped away.
I’d definitely clean the boards first with IPA (as suggested) and then check the scraped or broken traces before another power check.
Martin
Below F601, there’s a resistor. The track looks ‘scraped’ away rather than a blown track. Have you been scraping?.
Also, 30 years sparky? Puts a 6A in a 4A?. To see if it ‘pops’. Electronics is not like a consumer unit.
Ohms law tells you that another 3rd current will be present. Let alone the...