How many times do you want the LED to flash during the 2 second on period? If you just want it to come on for 2 seconds then off for 2 seconds then rootboy suggestion is top of my list.
Tell me about it, I couldn't imagine having it never get below 50 degrees out. Coldest I have ever seen was -28F.
Maybe the college prefers their students be awake during classes, I can't see how a cold shower wouldn't wake you up in the morning!
Also, what is the recommended way of attaching a to-3 to a heatsink with the output being the case. Doesn't this mean the heatsink needs to be isolated? I have a really heavy heatsink that is more then capable to handle 3 of these transistors at full dissipation I would imagine, but that makes...
And the one with NPN transistor will provide all the amps through the transistor vs only turning on to help augment the power provided by the VR. Is this a horrible design or is this a little safer?
On that webpage they both claim to be 5 amps. But I am still not sure how they figure that. Is...
https://www.electronicspoint.com/three-phase-y-and-delta-configurations-t222680.html
I think the tutorial posted on this site will at least answer your first and second questions.
http://www.circuitdb.com/circuits/id/75
How do they figure this? I don't get how you can divide the two resistors to find the current gain of transistor. What am I missing?
http://talkingelectronics.com/projects/200TrCcts/101-200TrCcts.html#58
Why would be the advantage of using one method over the other as posted in the link? Why not just use a 2955 pnp?
I don't think anyone here is doubting what you say. I think what really everyone is asking is where would you use such a transformer and why in this case is it superior?
You are trying to pull people into an argument, just get on with your proof!
You do realize that electron flow and current flow are not the same thing. Energy is instant while electrons move at an agonizingly slow pace.
Electrons move from neg to pos but current flow is from pos to neg.
Google these, electron flow, hole flow, current flow
Try reading this...
http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/t-conventional-vs-electron-flow.aspx
are you getting confused by conventional vs electron flow?
This may also help... http://amasci.com/amateur/transis.html
Well it is working as of right now. Only time will tell if the switch needs replaced. But I am satisfied with it now.
Good lesson to learn. Now when I look at a motor just by looking at it, I got a better understanding of what type of motor it is and what its use may be for.
the reason why your schematic layout won't matter is because some schematic symbols for pin layouts won't match the real life pin layout. So this will force you to make the appropriate connections irregardless of the schematic layout vs your real life layout. Then you add in Steve's point about...
Did this the other day when as soon as I realized I had a mechanical switch. Mechanical switches and dust/dirt/wood particles never go together. It sure was dirty as all hell too.
that is the fun part. It is up to you to layout your pieces and wire them up. Once you have all them laying in front of you with a board you will start to see how it all comes together.
Well the saw was working good tonight, no humming. I did take the cap out and looked at it quickly, it is a 110v 400MFD cap. Motor rating is 1HP at i thought ~4k rpms. I didn't have time to trace the wires to see if there was a switch yet.
edit: something tells me that this is a start cap with...