DIY WBO2

[gearhead98]

i am trying to make this wideband o2 sensor controller.

 

[MP1]

Yes, as you put it, you are just off in space somewhere talking to yourself. It willl not work as a replacement. Better to come up with the bucks for the original in this case.

MP

 

[gearhead98]

well in that case I will have to draw up the schematics in eagle to convert them over to boards that i can print out.  anyone know if it would be better to do 2 seperate boards  for the heater and the controller or just one board for all of it?

 

[gearhead98]

in my further reading, i have found out that the newer sensor the LSU needs to be controlled with a PID.  can anyone shed some light on how these work, what this will accomplish

 

[gearhead98]

ok i believe i have everything put into eagle.  i need someone to check it for me.  should i post a bmp of the schematic or the save files( don't know if they will work)

 

[gearhead98]

forgot to add that i tried to use the exact parts from eagle but they did not have them all so i used a part that would work on the pcb when i make it, so somethings maybe different, hopefully the part i picked will be the same size as the one i am going to use.  if any parts don't match to the part listed let me know.

and if i post a bmp what dpi should i use??

 

[MP1]

You do not have to use the exact parts in Eagle as long as the pin out is the same. Otherwise the connections to the IC will all be wrong when you use the original.
If you are going to post a bmp, you do not need a lot of resolution or a big size. If you are not sure, post the bmp and see what it looks like. You can always delete the post and start over.

MP

 

[gearhead98]

ok i finally got the picture uploaded so you guys can see it.  the current pic is 100dpi i have one at 200 dpi if needed

just click on the image to see it full size

 

[audioguru2]

Why did you post a fuzzy schematic here and post the clear one over at ImageShack? Post the clear schematic here.

Where is the -5V supply going to come from?

 

[gearhead98]

i think the picture just got resized over here and is not resized over on imageshak.  It is actually sposed to be 4v but eagle didn't have one that i would be able to take over to the board stage so i used 5v instead

 

[audioguru2]

You attached a very fuzzy bitmap schematic here, but posted a very clear PNG file type over there. Why not attach the very clear PNG to your reply here? Its thumbnail will be resized, but when we click on it then it will be big and clear.

Your car has a +12V battery. In addition to it, your circuit needs a negative supply. Where is the negative supply going to come from?

 

[gearhead98]

good question.  as far as i can tell from what  i am finding the power connections is made at J11 and J12.  will everything work with power at those two points??

 

[audioguru2]

Sorry, the circuit doesn't need a negative supply, it makes its own.

The power supply for the circuit is very confusing:
1) JP12 I guess is the car's ground but the circuit calls it "-5V".
2) I guess the voltage regulator is a 7810, and the circuit calls its output "+5V" instead of +10V.
3) Pins 1-3 of the LM324 make a psuedo ground for the circuit.

 

[gearhead98]

3) Pins 1-3 of the LM324 make a psuedo ground for the circuit.

is this going to affect the circuit in any way or can i go ahead a start making a board from this schematic?

 

[audioguru2]

Make the circuit like on the schematic and it might work.
I have seen many schematics and parts lists on the internet with errors. Even errors on pcb wiring.