hydroxy gas power supply/separating oxygen and hydrogen from water

[steven2]

thankyou monoman heres the latest, the water tank that supplys water to my hydroxy gas generator, isent big enougth to be able to gravity feed the water to the hydroxy gas generator setup so i used the bycical pump without the hose to pump air into the tank to force the water through, and allso i get reactions at both stainlless steell bolts for the current and voltage from my power supply , but because the electrodes are still to far apart  its to slow in createing enougth gas to go to the tank as the bubler tank when i toped it up with water some of the water started to flow into the tube that the gas is ment to flow through ,and this tube is under water in the bottom of the tank and i need more gas to be able to force it out under pressure  but because of the size of my hydroxy plant i need more power and current that my circuit dosent deliver, to be able to get more gas fast enougth , and i would need to bring my electrodes closer together to be able to do that, without the extra current.  i havent got, that i need so im reviewing the whole design and will make some more changes , .due to the small sizes of the elbow jionts in the hydroxy gas setup i cannot get them any smaller to be able to bring the electrodes closer together so ill have to find an easyer alternative but the single yellow pipe like hydroxy generator is proveing to be good  so ill make another one and test it in sieries with the other and if i get more gas output ill combine it with the bigger one and see how it goes from there , so ive got more tests and modifications to do yet before i have a fully working version

 

[steven2]

the tube setup useing a bycical tube valve and houseing  when you sqeeze  the hydroxy gas from one balloon through the bycical  pump tube and once the collection balloon is inflated  turn the nearest yellow tap to the off position otherwise the stored gas will flow back out through the bycical pump tube , as long as it is screwed in the inner part where it conects the bycical valve will deppress the valve inside its houseing, thus allowing the gas to reverse so you could iether shut off the reverse valve tap or unscrew the bycical pump tube conection

 

[steven2]

when you run electrissity and current through the water via 2 stainlless steel bolts your not only getting hydroxy gas, you are allso chargeing that water to,  this i found out by mwasureing the voltage on my digital multimeter set to the low voltage reading and the voltage you read is going down pritty fast as if the charge is leaking away. i feel the same may apply to the gas you get from the charged water to, as when i stored ghydroxy gas into a balloon and tied it up tight and left it over night the balloon went down,  you can confirm any air leaks by tieing it to a hevey object and put it into a bucket of water and see if theres any bubles to confirm any leaks if not and the balloon still goes down , then the hydroxy gas may be charged to and when the charge leaks away the balloon shrinks to . heres the latest , ive made a small prototype hydroxy gas pressure  holder , when i get it completely air  tight ill put my hydroxy gas into it and the top rubber should bulge up if it goes down latter then think of what i said before, we may have to renergize the gas

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[steven2]

heres the hydroxy gas exspansion tank , i used thin rubber cut from surgical gloves and on the side of the tank is the orange colourd on/off tap to let the compressed gas out  allso i used the bycical valve with its houseing for it so when i put the gas in and as i put more in the rubber balloon section at the top will stretch and put the gas under some pressure pending on how strong and thick the rubber is then i let it out into a bubler chamber by turning on the orange tap

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[steven2]

heres the top section well you can see it its the rubber, and where ive got the bycical pump hose conected i can blow into it through a tap and it will inflate the rubber upwards , its the elasticity of that rubber that will make the gas move easyer, oops ive put the same picture in twice my error, can you delete on of them for me zepplin

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[steven2]

if you biuld the hydroxy gas generator power supply then you will need to biuld the rest , once youve made the mini hydroxy gas comppression tank you will need to test it out for leaks so useing a a small breath bloe into the bycical pump hose conected to the intake bycical tube valve and watch for the top rubber to inflate  upwards then unscrew the bycical pump hose so it wont leak out  and watch the rubber if it goes down you have a leak. to find the leak hold it under water and watch for where the bubles come out , then dry it and seal the leak , i had a leak around the top edge of the rubber so i put varnish around it and it worked , next is to store the actual hydroxy gas in it and leave it over night and if it goes down then the gas may be charged and was looseing its charge and that may exsplain why it goes down , it would be the charge was shrinking and the gas was going down because of it ,

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[monoman]

hi steven, ive started building the main electrolysis chamber out of some plastic piping
I found a useful fact: adding salt to the water improves its conductivity, and increases the yeild of gas,

monoman

 

[steven2]

monoman ive tried salty water to , it makes implodeing gas well and it sure makes the stainlless steell bolt electrodes corode faster and ya get all this black stuff form in the water , the gas appears to have a charge as it even slightly triggers my charge senser and when the charge dies down so dose the volume of gas , and when ya think its leaking, it aint as i put mine under water to see if i get any air bubles but i dident  so the gas is shrinking not leaking out , and it still makes nice big pops when you flow it through a tube into some water with dish washinge liuqiud then lite it up  are you trying to make the comppression tank to mine works ok and when the top rubber is inflated out i turn the tap on and it flows out ok due to the rubber pressing down  rewmeber the distance apart you have ya electrodes is important and the size of the water containment to less water more heat will be held and it kind of neutralizes the gas as i  couldent get it to light when i made gas useing a mini hydroxy gas generator  the water got to hot and the gas was unreacting to flame then . so you need ya water to be resonably cool  for ya gas to have more energy i think , post some pictures monoman i like to see how ya doing im planing to work on a better comppression tank useing bycical tube rubber and an extra hydroxy generator , im useing the yellow one its good for its size , and ill plan on makeing a better power supply for faster gas production .

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[monoman]

hi steven, Ive read an article about this experiment, where the woman suggests using graphite electrodes that she has salvaged from some kind of battery. perhaps this material is less seceptible to corrosion from thie mixture.

I think adding salt to the water does not increase the yeild of gas as i said before, but actually increases the rate at which gas is released:

when the salty water is electrolysed, chlorine gas will be given out from the same terminal as the oxygen (anode), while the sodium will  react with the surrounding water, giving off more hydrogen, and forming sodium hydroxide as a solute. therefore, the hydrogen gas given out at the negative terminal is still pure and is given out at a faster rate, but some hydrogen (potential yeild) will have been locked up within the sodium hydroxide.

the addition of sodium hydroxide through this reaction, means that the solution becomes progressively more basic through the course of electrolysis. Basic solutions can be known to attack/corrode certain metals, and in this case it has probably attacked some element within the stainless steel, producing that black stuff you mentioned as a product (perhaps a metal oxide).

What I have made so far is really not worth posting I will post a few designs I have made though once i get them onto the PC,
regards, monoman

 

[steven2]

thankyou monoman  my stainlless steell bolt electrodes are nice and clean still and no corosion since i started useing demineralized water and bi carb soda, the blue water helped to keep them clean before and they are not being effected anymore so far . heres another picture i took off my pc monitor of the ignited hydroxy gas flash  that i slowed down to still it  then took the picture off the monitor look at the bright yellow flash and the sound i got sounds like 3 pops all at the same time when i slow it down with the video

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[monoman]

how did you set up the actual electrolysis chamber? This design is pretty good i think

reaction_chamber.zip

 

[steven2]

monoman i used pvc pipe t peace and glued a plastic coke bottle neck into it and sealed the top lid and put my bolts through it i used the same or similiar with the big one

 

[monoman]

ok thanks, just wanted to be sure that i had the basic design right before i go further. im gonna try and salvage some graphite electrodes too and clean em up ill get back to you when i have built something worth posting

 

[steven2]

ok monoman hey i used 2 fat diodes cut in half on the first electrolysis test and the water was salty and even the water turned black so i wonder if the water will turn a similiar colour if you use ghraphite, i did try useing my 2 half diodes for electrodes on just plian water and i think it went a bit black to as the diode was black to  naturally in colour as it was just like  other silicon diodes , but effective to in createing good bubles for its size

 

[monoman]

hi,

platinum is the best material to use for the electrode as its an inert metal, but obviously, this is too expensive for a homemade plant.

as long as this black 'stuff' is not reacting due to the electrolysis, and causing too much unwanted, impure gas to be formed along with the hydrogen then its probably good to use if its giving you a good amount of bubbles.

what diodes did you use?,
monoman

 

[ante1]

The positive electrode in for example a D-cell is a graphite rod which can be used for electrolysis.

 

[steven2]

monoman i cant remeber the details but the diode was 6 amps , any fat diode will do , once you cut them in half you wont be able to read its details then , looking forward to your next posts and when you get it done some pictures

 

[steven2]

if anyone biulds the power supply and test it on iether of the simple hydroxy gas generators, the dial when you turn it you will get to a piont where you can hear inside , of the pipe by putting your ears up to it, the most bubleing you can here so play around with the dial  to get the best performance , and when you make the simple hydroxy storage and pressure tank make sure you seal it well and varnish it to help seal any leaks, when you done this put some hydroxy gas or air into it and hold it under water, any bubles means you have a leak , when you fill the tank up with hydroxy gas it pays to fill it up till the rubber at the top bulges up then empty it out ti get rid of the air , same applys to when you fill a balloon up,  the water seems to get pritty warm so in order to get it coooler ive made a taller simple hydroxy generator and hope that the extra water it can hold will keep it cooler , when i take the lid off when its runing i can hear it sounding more like its steaming than bubleing and i can see a fine mist comeing out to , heres the latest and the latest tank ive made to

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[steven2]

notice the latest hydroxy gas pressure tank is inflated outwards at the top, thats the yellow rubber cut from a pair of cheap 69 cents rubber gloves , i filled that tank up with hydroxy gas after i made it and left it sitting over night , and it only went down a tiny bit ,  and its still domed out at the top so all i need to do is test that gas out to see if it still has any potency, my theory of the gas being charged  , leaking away and makeing the amount of gas shrink may be out  a little ill find out soon.

 

[steven2]

by  useing the home made comppression tank to store more hydroxy gas into it i decided to retest the possible charge it held and used my moveing charge sensor and it dose read a charge of some kind, and when i set my digital multimeter to the low 200 milivolts range and then put one probe to the , gas input metal part of the bycical tube valve , and the other probe i touch it to the bottom of the tank which is non copnductive and i get a 1 to 4 millivolts reading  even if i touch that probe to the top rubber to, so it looks like its charge  or a pollarity of it is radiating out through the tank from inside . i get the same thing when i hold one probe to my high voltage ignition  version capacitor charger to  and the other i hold away at a close distance like an energy receaving antannae,  if the gas being implosive in nature i can only emagine what happens to the charge in it  as its implodeddd with the gas , you would exspect a heap of sparks but i get a cold flame that dosent burn or radiate heat that i could felt and very bright yellow flame with light