Sheet metal knockout punches

[Archimedes' Lever]

One must keep challenged. You with your mop, me (lately) with FPGAs.
Microprocessor development was too boring.

You're *so* easy, AlwaysWrong!

Our FPGAs manage 10Gb / second streams. I think you lose again.

 

[pimpom]

In your day, a chassis was chiseled out of stone! ;-)

The last time I used knockout punches was almost 40 years ago
during the only time I ever worked under someone else. Tubes were
still a more viable option than solid-state devices for many
applications, especially in places like India. I remember having
a mild argument with my boss when he asked me to design and
construct a constant-current, high-voltage supply for
electrophoretic work in a medical research lab.

He was a New Zealander who'd received his Ph.D in the US and was
more at home with solid-state devices than with tubes. I was 19,
entirely self-taught from the likes of Radiotron Designers's
Handbook and whaterver scraps of literature I could find. I
wanted to use an EL84 at its "design maximum" ratings and he
claimed that active devices should never be operated anywhere
near their maximum ratings. I had my way, and the lab used the
instrument for many years.

 

[Jamie]

Dopes like you that do NOT read the whole fucking thread are always a
good laugh.

He already stated that he HAS their pdf catalog, you retarded putz!

I've noticed that your attention spanned on threads are asymmetrical, much
like the boring depletion of your material.

Henceforward, seek out new material and stop being autistically
deranged.

 

[krw]

Our FPGAs manage 10Gb / second streams. I think you lose again.

"Our"? You certainly don't design with them; too stupid. I lose
nothing, AlwaysWrong.

 

[krw]

They are working to improve quality. I've talked to a manager they
move around from store to store to improve their retail stores, and was
told they have had to drop a number of vendors because of quality
problems. Some were replaced because another vendor offered better
quality, and at a lower price. Some of the discussions we had resulted
in changes in their website, as well. Most people don't use that grade
of tool for profession work, but I've run into several guys who swear by
their Pittsburgh Professional wrenches. One was putting two sets in his
work truck and told me he had never had one break, but a lot had been
stolen so he bought two sets at a time. Others told me they used them
working on cars for a living, and had never had a problem. For their
prices, they are hard to beat but you need to look at any tools you plan
on using daily no matter who sells them. I know people who still swear
by Craftsman hand tools because of the lifetime warranty. Then they brag
about how many times Sears has replaced their broken tools.

Hmm. I was at the Montgomery store yesterday but didn't buy much
(just a magnetic parts dish). I was looking at some of their wrenches
but I've bough cheap wrenches before that weren't the marked size.
Kinda makes it tough when the wrench is smaller than the bolt. Maybe
I'll give them a try.

I have been buying from Harbor Freight for almost 40 years and have
only had one defective tool in that time. It was one of their 6 in 1
screwdrivers, and one piece wasn't properly punched. OTOH, I bought six
that day for half price so I didn't bother to take back a $1.49 tool
that I can fix on my drill press. When I started dealing with them,
they only did mail order and I was buying factory second drill bits by
the pound. Mostly 1/8", since I broke a lot of them drilling out
rivets. A pound would last about 5 years for about $10.

I have bought their drill bits and use the smaller ones a fair bit.
The bigger ones last a long time so I can afford to buy good ones. ;-)
I've had a problem with the temper on screwdrivers and alignment of
the jaws on pliers. HF isn't alone here but they are pretty bad.
I also have their 10" compound sliding miter saw. It's fine for
framing but it's not so great for woodworking. I'll likely replace
it, perhaps with a Bosch or Dewalt, in a year or so.

 

[ehsjr]

This is a hand operated metal punch for smaller holes:

<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91510>

This is a base to mount it to a workbench:

<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93787>

They are similar to the more expensive ROPER-WHITNEY METAL PUNCH


Here are some examples of the step drills that John mentioned:

<http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=step+drill&Submit=Go>

They are great for deburring holes and inside the ends of conduit, as
well.

Thanks for the links, and thanks for the ones to other HF stuff
you've posted in the past. Always appreciated!

Ed

 

[pimpom]

Mine is 4th Edition, 1953 ;-)

Same here. I got my own copy in the late 70s through a friend in
the US. It says that it's the 4th edition, 1952 - reproduced
under direction of RCA in April 1953. I had it rebound later and
it's still in very good shape. Still comes in useful for some
things.

 

[Archimedes' Lever]

Henceforward...

Grow the **** up.

 

[Archimedes' Lever]

"Our"? You certainly don't design with them;

You have no clue, as usual.

too stupid.

You certainly are.

I lose
nothing,

Nothing from nothing leaves nothing. Basic math, nothing boy.

 

[pimpom]

School teaches you the theory, but real world experience
teaches you
what is possible ...

That incident must have left an impression with my boss. When the
internet arrived in my region almost thirty years later, I
managed to find the postal address of one of his former work
places. I sent him a letter and in his reply by email, he
mentioned the incident and graciously said "You taught me a good
lesson that day".

We corresponded for awhile and then tapered off, and I lost his
contact info. Sure wish I could find him again - if he's still
alive. He must be well over 70 by now.

 

[pimpom]

It's available online in PDF format for free.

Thanks for the info. Downloading it now, just in case. I even saw
a pdf copy of my first book on electronics: Audels Radioman's
Guide.

 

[krw]

You have no clue, as usual.

DimBulb, I have pegged. You're lower than a floor wipe.

You certainly are.

Wrong again, AlwaysWrong.

Nothing from nothing leaves nothing. Basic math, nothing boy.

Nymbecile? Basic math? Snoo-o-o-rt! That's just too funny, coming
from the group's own math-phobe!

 

[krw]

I just bought an old Crftsman 10" belt drive table saw to replace the
one that has an internal motor that quit. Both were built by Emerson
over 15 years ago. The internal motor was a custom design, and used an
externally mounted Klixon thermal motor starter that is no longer
availible. the motor is no longer availible, as well. The belt drive
saw is older, but uses a stock 1/2 HP motor and there is very little
that can't be repaired or make with a few metalworking tools. I'm going
to replace all the bearings as P.M., and the rubber covered levelers
will be replaced with some 4" stem casters. It is so heavy that it takes
two people to lift it out of my truck, or to move it.

The "integral" motors are usually universal motors; horrible things.
An old Sears contractors saw is a reasonable tool. Newer ones are
junk. I bought a Delta X5 Unisaw in March. Just came in from making
sawdust, in fact (still can't understand why my dado zero-clearance
insert no longer fits ?-/).

I have several other Crftsman saws that my dad left when he moved
north last year. A couple radial arm saws, a miter saw and a couple
circular saws. I also have the little 10" table saw from Harbor freight
that I use to cut luan plywood. I bought it for $69 a few months ago.
Its nothing special, but it works for what I want. I am replacing some
paper tray bins with plywood, and i am going to build some 2'*2'*2'
boxes that stack

I also have a Craftsman RAS that I bought about 30 years ago. It's
taken apart right now but I'll put it back together when I get my shop
built. Last year I bought a Dewalt rear swivel circular saw that's
really slick. I also have their 18V 6" saw that I used for cutting
plywood down to size. I don't like most of HF's power tools. As I
said, the HF 10" SCMS is OK for what I bought it for but it's no world
beater. I bought a couple of HF 18V drills that are absolute junk. I
bought 'em mail order before I'd ever been into a store. Had I seen
them I never would have wasted the money.

 

[krw]

The older Sears internal motor table saws were split phase, capacitor
start. Instead of using a mechanical switch inside the motor, Emerson
used the Klixon thermal starter.

The belt drive saws have induction motors but every direct drive saw
I've seen has a universal motor (to get it small enough to have enough
of the blade exposed to be useful).

Which 18 volt drills? They have several models. I still have one of
their 9.6 volt cordless drills that I've had for years. It doesn't hold
a full charge, but its over five years old. The same basic drill is now
sold as an 18 volt model 93440. The only thing that I don't like about
it is that the battery pack slides on, and uses a hockey puck to connect
to the charger but I bought a pair for under $40. If I need a high
torque drill, I use an AC powered drill.

Dunno, I'll see if I can find it......91396. It's balance is all off
and feels like it's made by a kid's vac-u-form kit. It's a total waste
of a blow-mold case. ...and blow-mold cases are pretty worthless.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

I still have a B&D drill I bought in 1970. I have four or five of
them, all from the 60s though the early '80s that have seen a lot of
rough service I wore out one chuck, and several power cords. All US
made.

I thought that Makita is chinese made these days? Or is it Ryobi?

Makita is a Japanese company, but of course they make tools in China.

Ryobi is a bit more of a story.. they used to be Japanese, but they
now are owned by a company called TTI, which makes such brand-name
"stuff" as Homelite, Milwaukee, Rigid (for Home Depot) etc... all in
South China. Founded by a European and a Chinese fellow about 25 years
ago.

 

[ehsjr]

You're welcome. BTW, have you seen their steppless tapered drills?

No! *Another* good catch. I'll have to try them.

<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66463>

They would be useful for a few jobs, like needing to slightly open a
hole without going a full step.

For whatever reason(s), I find myself doing that a lot.
I use a rotary rasp - gotta try the stepless bits.

Thanks!
Ed

 

[CellShocked]

DeWalt is owned by Black & Decker (...as of 1992).

But it is their "premium" line, similar to Toyota/Lexus, whewreas the B&D line
is aimed at "home" usage.

Didn't know that.

P&G owns Gillete, and I didn't know that either, until I read some stuff
yesterday about Gillette Stadium.

 

[krw]

I know we would all like to buy kit made locally, but the very best
power tools you can buy, imho, are Makita. I have bought both new and
s/hand from machinery auctions and boot sales. The secondhand ones
always get stripped, cleaned and relubed before use and you should see
the internals. Invariably ball or roller bearings on all shafts and
generously proportioned motors, which never seem to have any wear on the
commutators, irrespective of age. You can look at it with an engineers
critical eye and find little to find fault with. Some of the Bosch kit
is not bad as well and even some of the Black & Decker stuff, so long as
it's been made at the Scintilla subsiduary in Switzerland, but much of
the B&D stuff is rubbish.

Some Makita is OK. Most of it is overpriced. I now have mostly Bosch
and Dewalt tools, with a few older PC (router, drill, etc) thrown in.
Oh, and a Hitachi nail gun. I stopped buying Makita about ten years
ago.

It's the old story - buy cheap, buy twice ...

It's hard to get rid of crap tools. It's easier just not to buy them.
;-)

 

[krw]

Makita is a Japanese company, but of course they make tools in China.

Ryobi is a bit more of a story.. they used to be Japanese, but they
now are owned by a company called TTI, which makes such brand-name
"stuff" as Homelite, Milwaukee, Rigid (for Home Depot) etc... all in
South China. Founded by a European and a Chinese fellow about 25 years
ago.

Rigid is a US company. They're out of the Cleveland area and they are
*not* a HomeDespot brand.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

Rigid is a US company. They're out of the Cleveland area and they are
*not* a HomeDespot brand.

TTI-made-in-China Rigid-branded tools *are* effectively a Home Despot
brand since they are (were?) made exclusively for them, so I'm afraid
I have to disagree with your blanket statement.