Small Inverter Grounding?

R

Richard P.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Just out of curiosity, shouldn't those little 300W inverters be grounded in some way? I just picked
up one made by Xantrex and it has two 3 prong outlets, non-GFCI.

Nice quiet operation by the way. I thought my compact fluorescent would be buzzing away.
 
C

CampinGazz

Jan 1, 1970
0
Richard P. said:
Just out of curiosity, shouldn't those little 300W inverters be grounded in some way? I just picked
up one made by Xantrex and it has two 3 prong outlets, non-GFCI.

Nice quiet operation by the way. I thought my compact fluorescent would be buzzing away.

Whip the front panel off, and see if the ground connection at the sockets is
connected to anything,

most of them arent, so there's no point grounding something that has no
ground connected to the sockets.

When i bought my inverters off an inverter technician i asked this question,
and he said if the inverter has a grounding lug, connect it, if not don't
bother,

The little inverters are designed to be used with a fag lighter plug in a
vehicle, so any grounding for the internal circuits is done through the
negative lead of the DC input.
 
M

m II

Jan 1, 1970
0
Richard said:
Just out of curiosity, shouldn't those little 300W inverters be grounded in some way? I just picked
up one made by Xantrex and it has two 3 prong outlets, non-GFCI.

Nice quiet operation by the way. I thought my compact fluorescent would be buzzing away.

I've read of people frying the units when they tried grounding the 'neutral' On
the units I use in the garage, I've grounded only the case of the inverter to
the negative side of the batteries. It seemed to make the radio plugged into it
a bit quieter.




mike
 
R

Richard P.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks Mike, I will have to give that a try as I have noticed that it has affected the noise level
on my shortwave and HF receivers.
 
J

John P . Bengi

Jan 1, 1970
0
OMG! do ***NOT do it that way. Ground the case of the inverter (It should be
anyway or not be connected). If the batteres are grounded fine, or ground
them sperately if your inverter input will allow it, without letting the
magic smoke out.

You ***never*** want to run an electrcal neutral to the metal frame or case
of any appliance. Any electrical faults or disturbance is brought right to
the case or frame of the equipment. If you are leaning against the metal at
the time you could get electrocuted. This is an electrical no-no, a code
no-no, and a stupid thing to do or tell somebody to do.

I doubt any electrical person worth shit is that stupid to even imply this
on purpose even for the purpose of an idiotic troll's joke . Get that
clarified first.

Best of luck
 
S

Sylvan Butler

Jan 1, 1970
0
You ***never*** want to run an electrcal neutral to the metal frame or case
of any appliance.
This is an electrical no-no, a code no-no,

Yeah, after all, I'm sure that in the ca. 10 years since the code was
changed, _every_ 3-wire dryer outlet in the USA has been changed and
_every_ clothes dryer rewired to seperate ground from neutral.

The only reason NOT to connect neutral to the case, is because neutral
is elevated above ground by the current (I*R losses) flowing in the
circuit. In the rare case where you provide a better connection to
ground than a 14ga or bigger wire, there could be a hazard.

sdb
 
M

m II

Jan 1, 1970
0
Richard said:
Thanks Mike, I will have to give that a try as I have noticed that it has affected the noise level
on my shortwave and HF receivers.

You may want to read up things before committing. Grounding the case of the
inverter to negative only is exactly how it would be connected in a vehicle,
where the unit may be bolted to a fender well or firewall. The problems seem to
arise when the neutral is connected to another system, where the existing
neutral is already grounded to earth. I'd avoid that.

Some research never hurt anybody:

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2004/10/26/202636/66
http://www.fishingandboats.com/inverter.html

There seems to be an in depth discussion here:

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2004/12/17/23852/167


where they say, among other things:

==============================================
To maybe help explain it, a large number of inverters have no output
transformer. 12V powers an inverter transformer that produces high voltage DC.
This high voltage DC has to be monitored by the inverter so it has an electrical
connection to the 12V which is usually grounded. It is done this way to save a
few cents in the circuit. The AC output is developed by a "H bridge." This is
basically like attaching jumper cables to a high voltage battery and reversing
them very quickly. If you ground one of the AC lines it either shorts an output
or seriously interferes with the monitoring circuit. If you have to ground the
AC system, an isolation transformer can be used.
==============================================





mike
 
R

Richard P.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Whoops, I may have not made myself clear. I meant I was going to ground the case of the inverter.
I was aware of the dangers about tying in the neutral to ground plus I didn't want to open the case
and void the warranty either! heheh...

Interestingly, I put one of those yellow outlet testers from GB into one of the outlets of the
inverter and all the status lights came on. Of course there's nothing in the manual of the tester
that states what that means.
 
L

LekTr0n.Nuis

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mon, 06 Jun 2005 06:22:43 GMT
Richard sayed:
Whoops, I may have not made myself clear. I meant I was going to ground the case of the inverter.
I was aware of the dangers about tying in the neutral to ground plus I didn't want to open the case
and void the warranty either! heheh...

Interestingly, I put one of those yellow outlet testers from GB into one of the outlets of the
inverter and all the status lights came on. Of course there's nothing in the manual of the tester
that states what that means.
G'day Richard, I have been following along with interest, as your question is one I
asked of a number of Electrical Authorities here in Australia back in 1990, when I
was heavily committed to RE both ideally and financially.
I have given up contributing here since arseholes alsem GymmyB0b/JP BENGI made the
scene look like a rubbish tip of knowledge.

This is my two bobs worth on your question.

Interestingly enough you provide part of the answer in your "yellow tester"
statement.
Essentially the answer is one of "referencing".
From a teaching perspective, if you take the ideal circuit as being a total Path of
"supply and return" with energy delivered/consumed being through the whole of the
resistive/inductive circuit, then an alternative Path can only be formed when one
makes a lower resistive circuit across the supply.
IE: An inverter generated circuit can only work across the output of the electronics.
Reference that to anything else and the circuit just will not work. The inverter
shuts down.
Its a far safer system than even the "isolation tranny" of the sixties.

Hence your answer lies in treating every situation as you would a "Double Insulated"
instance. IE: Ground nothing.

Make sure your appliances/tools etc are always in good order electrically as to
insulation integrity and circuit/path continuity. A point to note here is that it is
quintessentially safe to ensure the active/high potential/hot wire is always
switched.
It is the case that some European and USA manufactured devices do switch the "low
side" within device control circuitry. Vending machines are just one I can think of
immediately.

On the issue of grounding I found both in field practice and from bench testing that
applying grounding to the case of an inverter then tied the Negative of the
battery/battery bank to a separate referencing medium to that which the inverter
output was referenced. That was seen to cause instances of circulating currents being
setup between earthed devices that contained electrical elements which may
occasionally find Ground. An example is the wetting of heater bars in a "auto-defrost
fridge" during the defrost cycle, the man who turned the light on inside the fridge,
another.
The end result varied from the noticeable "tingle" felt from the frame of the fridge
to a complete inverter shutdown, with all the variables in between. Again, not
grounding the Vehicle/Bank eliminated these problems.

All of my work on this topic was done whilst dealing Solartronic Inverters, a West
Australian Company that was later absorbed by some Corporate juganaut. Their Inverter
product (Australian Designed) was an excellent performer with high efficiency
returns, well ahead of any local competitor and well in front of the imported sine
wave Siemens product.
An excellent source of products and information of that time remains today at the
Rainbow Power Site. Well worth an email or two.
http://www.rpc.com.au/
Their catalog/book [PRN-006] is well worth the few bucks.

Hope that helps you some :)

/me gives mll a wave
[I theenk the GB brat is pissin' in his pants at the moment <BFEG>]

Lektr0n Nuis
 
S

samuelchamb

Jan 1, 1970
0
Richard said:
Just out of curiosity, shouldn't those little 300W inverters be grounded in some way? I just picked
up one made by Xantrex and it has two 3 prong outlets, non-GFCI.

Nice quiet operation by the way. I thought my compact fluorescent would be buzzing away.
a power inverter is just a another appliance read the manual and they
all have a section on earthing with sub sections for auto/boat/static .
 
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