Vintage TC-366 Reel Recorder

[CyberWarrior]

Picked this recorder up,in great shape from Ebay.My problem is,I want to replace the caps connected to motor.

Cap says 1.5uF 250VWDC +5%.

Can someone point me in the right direction? I like to replace it,since I believe is going bad.

Is a big white cap,with 3 wires going to motor.

Thanks!

 

[shrtrnd]

We might need a picture for this. Some older caps had two capacitors in one package. Some had the capacitor, and a separate electrical ground.
Is there a manuacturer name and part number on it?
The cap itself is 1.5 microfarad at 250 working volts DC, with a 5% tolerance. But the three wires throws me.
A picture would help a lot if you can provide one.

 

[CyberWarrior]

Here's a close up,of the capacitor.
As I said before,it has 3 wires soldered to it.
One goes to cap,the other 2 go to the front.

 

[shrtrnd]

What you've got is an electrolytic capacitor in an aluminum can.
I'm still a little confused about your description of wiring to the motor. I'm thinking that third wire (that I can't see terminated), is probably a ground wire between the motor chassis and the circuit chassis.
The two wires you're talking about are the top of the capacitor. That's the contacts (there'll be a '+' sign and a '-' sign to denote polarity for hook-up next to each terminal on top) for the 1.5ufd 250vdc connection.
Look for an electrolytic capacitor with your electrical values, that is the same diameter as the one you've got for a direct replacement.
If you can't find one that size (in the old days caps were bigger than the ones they make now), you might have to install a different type of cap with the same electrical values.
Is that third wire from the motor, soldered to the mount for that capacitor? So that the motor is grounded to the chassis?

 

[CyberWarrior]

Ok there are 3 wires soldered to cap.One is green,one black,one, another black thinner one.
Green and fatter black,go from cap to motor,thinner black goes into the front of chassis.
I installed new belts,oiled just about anything that has metal friction,no good.Seems like a third wheel,under assembly of heads slips and does nothing.
Close to giving up,and trash time $95 worth of it.

 

[shrtrnd]

Sounds like it has more problems than I originally tought you had. Maybe more problems than you want to deal with.
What was the description of the recorder's condition when you bought it?
Might it be covered under the ebay warranty of usefulness?
If the description said it worked and it doesn't you may be able to get your money back.
You're right. If you've got multiple problems with it, it will take time and effort to solve the problems, and if you need
specific parts, it may be difficult to find them. (and they may not be cheap).
Let us know if you want to try to get it going, and what exactly is wrong with it.

 

[CyberWarrior]

I think I found the culprit.! There is a wheel under the heads assembly,that has rubber all over it.
When you engage play,it moves to meet with right side wheels and powers the tape forward.
I noticed the wheel just moves for about a second,then it just sits there slipping away.
If anyone knows where I can find this wheel or the name of it,please let me know.
Totally determined to get this thing running,no matter how long it takes !

Thanks

 

[nepow]

I think I found the culprit.! There is a wheel under the heads assembly,that has rubber all over it.
When you engage play,it moves to meet with right side wheels and powers the tape forward.
I noticed the wheel just moves for about a second,then it just sits there slipping away.
If anyone knows where I can find this wheel or the name of it,please let me know.
Totally determined to get this thing running,no matter how long it takes !

Thanks

Two points...Firstly the cap is not a DC electrolytic, it's an AC none polarised type as marked on the can. It's used to kick start the motor as the motor is running ok and no bulges or leakage is evident don't bother replacing it. Secondly the rubber wheel is called a 'jockey wheel' and usually links the motor to the reel drive surfaces etc. Most often the rubber surface goes shinny and looses it's grip, if you can remove it easily take a close look to check for wear. IPA or meths may clear the slipping by wiping the wheels driving surface.

 

[CyberWarrior]

Nepow thanks for your kind reply.I got tired of messing with it so,I sold it on EBay.
It is now,someone else's headache.