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Everything posted by monoman

  1. yes, your completely right elix, thery're really expensive at the moment, ive taken to disassembling webcams, salvaging both the electronics and the included optical assembly, even though the ones i have been able to get hold of are fairly crap quality. ::) what experience do you have in this area? (particularly in acquiring these chips) I would really appreciate any more info that you could share with me, thanks, monoman
  2. hi, ive been searching the net for ages, for a good chip, and this is the closest i have got to what i need; TC246RGB-B0 on Texas instruments website: http://focus.ti.com/paramsearch/docs/parametricsearch.tsp?family=analog&familyId=373&uiTemplateId=NODE_STRY_PGE_T and the datasheet: http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tc246rgb-b0.pdf however, on the first link (above) the chip's status is 'ACTIVE', but when you click on it, there is no pricing information, or any option to buy it, or to send for a sample. these kind of chips have turned out to be particularly hard to find on the net, and are not stocked by any electronics stores that i know of on the high street. please if anyone has looked for any image sensors before with any success, point me in the right direction ??? (ideally, it would be good to get a sample of a handful of these devices, that are as close to my specs as possible, without having to buy them in multiples of 250+ at
  3. hi, the datasheet is a paper copy that came in the bag, and I have no scanner to show it to you, but to be honest that was the only thing i didnt understand. (it is just a list of what is included listing part numbers, type of diode, and voltage/wattage, not a detailed datasheet of an individual diode) I pretty much guessed what Z-diode stood for too. 3 types of diode included with this name: SPP100, SY625, SY400 i searched for SY400, and got a list of toilet roll holders! no luck with the other two either thanks for the help i couldnt find a decent translator online, that one seems quite good
  4. hi, anyone speak German here? what is 'Gleichrichterdiode' I bought a multipack, of diodes and got a german datasheet. no online translators translate it, think it might be rectifier diode? thanks :)
  5. EDIT: im probably going to use CCD to be honest, because they have higher sensitivity, higher quality images, lower-noise, and generally more pixels (not a really important factor for me, as long as it is above 2 megapixels) even though CMOS sensors, can consume about 100 times less power, and are cheaper too. (not really too sure about frames per second, but i think that CMOS is faster, because each pixel is individually read, rather than shifting the charge; agian not too important as long as it is above 30fps) so please can you recommend a CCD to use that fits my specs. thank you
  6. hi, dont know if this in the right forum: for a low end image sensor (between 2 to 3 megapixels) in a colour video application, can anyone recommend the best sensor to use (CCD or CMOS) when i say 'best', i need these specs: >smallest (dimensions, and weight) >2 to 3 megapixels >low noise, high sensitivity >colour filter >fastest possible fps rate (must be 30fps or more) >no image burn-in, or distortion, or delay. >lowest possible power consumption. please post if you have any ideas for the best chip for me to use, thanks.
  7. hi, platinum is the best material to use for the electrode as its an inert metal, but obviously, this is too expensive for a homemade plant. as long as this black 'stuff' is not reacting due to the electrolysis, and causing too much unwanted, impure gas to be formed along with the hydrogen then its probably good to use if its giving you a good amount of bubbles. what diodes did you use?, monoman:)
  8. ok thanks, just wanted to be sure that i had the basic design right before i go further. im gonna try and salvage some graphite electrodes too and clean em up:) ill get back to you when i have built something worth posting
  9. how did you set up the actual electrolysis chamber? This design is pretty good i think reaction_chamber.zip
  10. hi steven, Ive read an article about this experiment, where the woman suggests using graphite electrodes that she has salvaged from some kind of battery. perhaps this material is less seceptible to corrosion from thie mixture. I think adding salt to the water does not increase the yeild of gas as i said before, but actually increases the rate at which gas is released: when the salty water is electrolysed, chlorine gas will be given out from the same terminal as the oxygen (anode), while the sodium will react with the surrounding water, giving off more hydrogen, and forming sodium hydroxide as a solute. therefore, the hydrogen gas given out at the negative terminal is still pure and is given out at a faster rate, but some hydrogen (potential yeild) will have been locked up within the sodium hydroxide. the addition of sodium hydroxide through this reaction, means that the solution becomes progressively more basic through the course of electrolysis. Basic solutions can be known to attack/corrode certain metals, and in this case it has probably attacked some element within the stainless steel, producing that black stuff you mentioned as a product (perhaps a metal oxide). What I have made so far is really not worth posting:) I will post a few designs I have made though once i get them onto the PC, regards, monoman
  11. hi steven, ive started building the main electrolysis chamber out of some plastic piping:) I found a useful fact: adding salt to the water improves its conductivity, and increases the yeild of gas, monoman
  12. Hi steven, Thank you for all of this, much appreciated, there is more than enough info to get started with, please if you add/change anythink else, keep posted, monoman
  13. thanks alot for those schematics! can you provide me with the information about how to set up the actual chambers, e.g. where the water goes in, where the hydrogen gas comes out, and all the chambers in between, along with the process of each one? this is alot to ask but maybe you could direct me to this information? (some diagrams would be really helpful too ;D) I will really be grateful, thanks, monoman :)
  14. hi, this project is brilliant!! I never would have thought of using an arrangement like this in the house, supplying you with hydrogen gas to burn. I could use this in my boiler and hob, maybe save some on the gas bills! :o do you mind posting the circuit schematics for it, and any other important mechanical schematics that you have made? I would really appreciate this, monoman
  15. thank you for the very quick reply, but it is the energy of the spark that i am trying to calculate.
  16. can anyone please provide me with a formula to calculate the energy of a spark between two terminals of a spark plug? (in relation to the distance between them, and the voltage across them) thanks for any help
  17. wheres the schematics? it all seems to be ads for buying cameras
  18. hi, just wondering, what does this circuit do? is it just to change the output voltage of the 555? if so what does the transistor for? thanks for the help.
  19. the way I have always built a half adder is to use an XOR gate and an AND gate. usually I will build the XOR gate by combining an AND gate, a NAND gate, and an OR gate. i dont think it is possible to build a half adder purely out of NOR gates and if it is I imagine that the circuit would be quite complicated. Surely there must be some kind of 'AND' function? if not surely it would make the circuit less complicated? my guess is that the problem lies in the way that you have built the circuit. I might be wrong about this but please post your circuit so we can have a look. thanks
  20. a calculator is able to differentiate between denary numbers (1,2,3..) by storing them as binary numbers in digital memory (like ascii in programming). when you press say number 2 on the calculator, the calculator will recall the binary number 1 0 from its memory. all of the calculations done by the calculator are then done by logic gates that deal with the 1's and 0's that make up the binary numbers being inputted from the memory. at the end the answer to the sum is converted back from binary into a sequence of lines (stored in memory)on an LCD display making up the denary digits we want our answer to be displayed in. >Subtraction, multiplication, and division functions on a calculator are all possible to impliment by using addition in different ways. >therefore addition is this basis of all these common functions >the most simple circuit allowing you to add together two binary numbers is the HALF ADDER >this is then extended to make a FULL ADDER >full adders can then be joined together to allow us to add together larger and larger binary numbers >they can also be combined in certain ways to be capable of subtraction, multiplication, and division This is one of my favourite websites for basic digital electronics; this page shows you the half-adder and full-adder circuits with an explanation: http://www.play-hookey.com/digital/adder.html ,monoman
  21. maybe i understand you?.... in boolean algebra the 'Bar' above a letter means that it is the inverse value, therefore by having two bars above a letter it is the inverse of the inverse value, meaning the normal value. hence the bars can be cancelled out in the same kind of way that two minus's make a positive in conventional algebra, i.e. A - (-B) = A+B. using this fact, i think that you can simplify both of your output formulas, and will find that in fact they are both the same. hehehe is that what you meant?? :)
  22. so you are trying to build the circuit using only NOR gates instead of X-OR and AND gates? can you post the circuit?
  23. I am not too good at using boolean algebra but I can tell you that the half adder has four possible combinations at the input (0+0,0+1,1+0,1+1) but only three possible outputs. The reason being is that inputting 0+1 will give the same output as inputting 1+0. the output that will be given is 1 at the sum, and 0 at the carry in both cases. I suspect that one of your equations corresponds to 0+1 at the input and the other to 1+0. heres a good website for understanding what i mean: http://isweb.redwoods.cc.ca.us/INSTRUCT/CalderwoodD/diglogic/half-add.htm hope that helped, monoman
  24. hi any body ever been to a 3D cinema? remember those stupid glasses with the red a green lenses? well phillips has announced the arrival of a new 3D TV in your own home sometime in late 2007/2008, eliminating the need to wear 3D specs. also it is posiible to veiw the TV at a fairly wide range of angles while still retaining the 3D effect. I first saw this in a gadget magazine called 'stuff' in UK, and have since been looking for decent info about it on the web. I found this website for anyone who is interested: www.business-sites.philips.com/3dsolutions/3dtechnology/DisplaySignalProcessing/Index.html if anyone has found more info about this on the web please post it. Another gadget relating to TV's which grabbed my attention was ambilight TV's, a less recent innovation but still quite intriging. (link below). http://www.research.philips.com/technologies/syst_softw/ami/ambilight.html p.s. I have also heard these are good for reducing eye strain and headaches during long periods of veiwing. what are your opinions? monoman
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