Hero999

http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/grid-tie-inverter-for-solar-panels-250w-230v-ac-007816-007.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shcomp

The 555 isn't suitable for this because there's nothing to keep the relay powered when the power supply is removed. You could use a capacitor but the delay will be neither predictable nor easily adjustable. How long do you need the delay to last for? You'll need a very large capacitor for a delay longer than a few seconds. A simpler option is just to buy a timer relay which is also how it should be done.

Sorry, no one knows what you're talking about. Posting in English rather than half Filipino might help.

Where can you buy the LM3905 from? Have you built this circuit before? I think the LM3905 may be obsolete.

1) The voltage means nothing. It's possible to design a huge electric car which runs off 48V or a little wall clock which runs off 240VAC. Voltage alone equal power, look up Ohm's law. It's a silly idea, D1 to D5, R1 and C1 should all be removed and a 240VAC relay used. A 9V battery can easily power three LEDs like this, although they must be red, orange, yellow or green which have a low voltage drop about 1.8V to 2.2V. Blue, white and violet LEDs have a higher voltage drop of 3.5V so should each have their own resistor. 2) J just means jumper or plug which can connect to another circuit which is explained by the text.

1) How do we know what your requirements are? 2) It's better, cheaper and easier to just use double sided copper clad board in the first place rather than bodging a double sided PCB from two single sided PCBs. The main problem I can see with the circuit is the peak voltage from the rectifier exceeds the maximum voltage rating of the LM324. The MC33074 is a better choice as it's rated to 44V but it has a higher roll-off and a different gain/phase shift so you may need to change some of the capacitor vales in the feedback loop. I haven't analysed it in detail so there could be other problems.

It sounds like you should make the safety system manual, i.e. the power needs to be disconnected when there are people in the area.

The schematic will be the easy part. It's programming which is more complicated. I suggest you do some research into programming. BASIC is certainly the easiest language to learn and is available for most PIC MCUs. I sed assembler when I last had a go at programming a PIC and it wasn't that hard for me but many people find it difficult so BASIC is your best bet. THere seem to be quite a few BASIC compilers for PICs: http://www.google.co.uk/search?client=opera&rls=en&q=PIC+basic&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest As far as I'm aware, there's only one completely free one (GCBASIC), all the rest have some limitations until you pay. http://gcbasic.sourceforge.net/

Yes, you need a peak voltage of 21.9V to deliver 60W into 4 Ohms. It can be calculated using Ohm's law: P = VI I = V/R So: P = V*V/R = V2/R Note, the above formulae relate to DC. The RMS power is half the peak power: PRMS = Vp2/(2R) Rearrange for Vp Vp = sqrt(PRMS2R) Vp = sqrt(60*2*4) = sqrt(60*8) = sqrt(480) = 21.9V You need a full bridge with a voltage doubler to stand any chance of getting 60W with a 12V supply.

The most efficient solution is to power the MCU from the regulator and everything else (relays, lights motors etc.) from the 12V. A 5V linear reglator running off 12V is only 42% efficient. Transistors are normally used in the way you've described to enable the MCU to control 12V appliances and don't forget the diode in reverse parallel with the relay coil.

You've not provided enough information. What does the PCB do? The made model number? Please post a picture.

It's called Google.

YOu haven't provided enough inofrmation. What do you men by fast? <1ms, 1us, 1ns 1ps? What level of safety you need? If it goes wrong, what's the worst that could happen? What's the SIL (Safety Integration Level)? Safety engineering is a complex subject, here are a few links to get you started. http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/hsl_pdf/2000/hsl00-01.pdf http://www.gavazzionline.com/safety/pdf/generalsafety.pdf http://4-sightconsulting.co.uk/Current_Papers/Determining_SILs/Methods_of_Determining_Safety_Integrity_Level.pdf

1) Nothing. 2) What do you mean? It's an opto-TRIAC not a MOSFET coupler. 3) How about using a BJT? It's much easier. What frequency and duty cycleare you talking about? 4) Semiconductor outputs alone shouldn't be used in a safety critical situation. If the circuit is safety critical you need to build in some redundancy and monitor the outputs to verify they're in the intended state.

Here's another simpler decision maker circuit.

The 74HC00 is the same price as the 555, uses less power and the oscillator circuit uses the same number of components as the 555.

The 74HC74 is available in the same size DIL package as the old CD4013.

Why post another circuit which basically does the same thing? You don't even need a 555, it's possible to do this with a single CD4013 with one half configured as an astable. I prefer to use the modern 74HC74 though as it can drive LEDs brightly and run off a couple of AA cells.

The image is too small to see. The full size original can be found on the site it was copied from. That site contains nothing but schematics taken from other websites: what's the point? I assume you have the permission from the authors. Design your own circuits or at least make improvements, to them. In this case could you please rewrite the poorly worded explanation. It would be better if the NE555 were replaced with a CMOS oscillator such as the 74HC00 and the old TTL ICs with more modern HC equivalents. Of course the more economical solution would probably be to use a microcontroller: the no-thrills PIC16F54 would be perfect for this application.

Please start a new thread and post in English, if you want help.

What's a voltage doppler? No enough information, piezoelectric materials have 100s of applications.

According to the picture, the F15T8 is not listed so is not suitable for the tube you've linked to.

Try replacing the 10R resistor. I asked for a PNG not to be difficult but because JPEG is a lossy format. Just saving a JPEG in PNG format doesn't give a better image because the information has already been lost when the picture was previously saved as a JPEG. In this case you all you did was rename the file, the internal format is still JPEG, renaming the file is not the same as saving it in a different format. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JPEG I've increased the contrast as much as possible but some of the component values aren't clear.

Can you please post a better schematic? At least in PNG format, that way I may have some chance of being able to increase the contrast so it's readable, the JPG just goes fuzzy when I increase the contrast. How did you measure the voltage? You do know it's a high frequency transformer so you need an oscilloscope. Have you measured the DC bus voltage?

What's the voltage of the solar panels when no load is connected? It's generally much higher than 12V, mine are >17V. An LM317 will only drop a couple of volts so won't cost you much. The only thing is the leakage current may be too high as when it's dark the batteries will discharge via R1 and R2, see the schematic, it'll make sense. You could add diodes, one in series with the battery and one in series with R2 but you'll loose an extra 0.6V or just make R1 and R2 so high the discharge current is very low. A charge controller needn't be very complicated, a TL431 and comparator could be connected to a PNP transistor or MOSFET so the LM317 is bypassed until the battery voltage reaches 14.4V and reconnected when the battery voltage falls below 12.5V. It's also possible to disconnect the battery from the output when the voltage drops too low. Come to think of it, trickle charging NiMH cells is fine as long as it's not prolonged, 100mA into 2500mAh cells is just 0.04C which should be fine as long as there's a break every 20 hours which there should be unless they're in the Arctic in mid summer. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NiMH#Trickle_charging