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About jknightandkarr

  • Birthday 12/18/1980

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  1. Ok will have to see if i can find anything on the mic for a part number. That should give a place to start. Joe Edit. Checked mic element, and not one single marking of anykind... don't even know who made the kareokie machine the mic came from. Looks cheap though. I doubt that my freq generator would help much, so I guess i will just replace the switch inside since it's broken and just use it as it is, till i can just buy a good one.
  2. I will have to see if i can find some software to test the mics db freq responce. First then. Thanks for this info. While i know some electronics, audio for me is uncharted territory... I have an analog oscilliscope, freq counter and cheap saleae knock off, wonder if any of those will help.. Joe
  3. I have a cheap mic, can't afford much right now. Was looking up mic specs for stuff in like the $100 range and saw that they have 20hz to 20khz. I am in the process of rebuilding the mic as i had to tear it appart to fix a broken switch issue. Also hoping the filter(s) get out alittle back ground noise.
  4. Well, not worried about this anymore. Friend gave me a set of TurtleBeach Earforce X12 headset. However I do need help with a microphone. I want to make a filter for a 20 Hz and 20 kHz filter. I got the values for a low pass filter and a high pass filter, but more checking out told me that just hooking one filter into the end of the other won't work. I found something about a band pass filter, which according to the math, am not skilled enough to figure out on my own. Any suggestions on filter(s) for my mic? Joe
  5. I just copied the whole section, didn't feel like editing. Speakers are those really small cheap over ear headphone/small toy looking speakers, I think they might be bad...they measure 30 ohms. I didn't think they had that much resistance on them. Probly simpler to just buy a new headset n say heck with it.. Joe
  6. I can answer the 2nd question for you, as I have 2 3d printers, both having heated beds. The heated beds are required when printing with some kinds of filament, such as ABS plastics. If the bed is not heated to a certain temp n kept at that temp the print adhision may fail totally or even warp your print(s). So the beds will be needed in some cercomstances. Hope this helps. I think as for the voltage, I think most are 12v DC, atleast mine are. Joe
  7. Ok, first I have a set of turtle beach ear force x11 gaming headset with the following specs: Headphones: - 40mm diameter speakers with neodymium magnet - Speaker Frequency Response: 30Hz - 20kHz, >120dB SPL @ 1kHz - Condenser Microphone Frequency Response: 50Hz - 15kHz - Cable length: 16 ft. (4.877m) - Weight: 6.4 oz. (233g) In-Line Amplifier: - Headphone Amplifier: Stereo DC-coupled, 35mW/ch, THD <1%, Frequency Response: DC - 30kHz - Mic mute switch - XBOX controller 2.5mm input jack - Maximum analog input level with volume control on maximum setting: 2Vpp (700mV rms) - 3.5mm plug for mic output - 3.5mm plug for line input - Weight: 1.3 Oz (36g) - USB connector for power (5VDC @ <50mA max) - Dimensions: Height .5in (1.27cm), Width 2in (5.08cm), Depth .75in (1.905cm) My idiot brother got ahold of my headset and not only ripped the wires loose from the controls output wires, but apperently also fried the controller... my question is, can anyone recommend circuitry to fix the mic and speakers?? Don't care about the controller port as I don't game online with xbox anyhow, so I only need the mic and speakers. I looked on project page, but since my knowlage of audio like this is non exhisting. any help is appreciated. Lucky for me the input side of wires is good, so I got a usb for power, mic plug and speaker plug. Meanwhile, going to try and see if I can locate scematics for the contoller. I know I can just buy new set, but I don't have much cash lately, so fixing them better option for me. Thanks. Joe
  8. I am in need of schematics / service manual for a Sanyo VWM-710 vcr. I got hit by a power surge and now its non-functional. Already checked fuse, its fine, so I need something to help me locate the issue, I am not seeing any obvious issues. I know I can fix it, just need some help. Thanks. Joe
  9. I hope this is the correct area, but I am looking for sources of bulk component supplies. The only one's that I know of are Digikey, Mouser and Jameco, 2 of the 3 of them have what I need but WAAAAAY too much, plus I don't need 250 or 400 or esp 800 count orders...... I need Blue 0.4" AlphaNumeric leds SMD or PTH don't matter, white would also work by just using a blue filter. Is there other sources of components. Radio Shack isn't even an option. Another requirement IS however a reliable source of them. I need multiples of 10 singles or 5 doubles, just as long as I have 10 digits. What I really need is 0.4" Alphanumeric Vaccume Flor Disp, but those are waaaaaay LOOOONG gone. For what I am doing blue is pretty much needed, green, which seams to be the only one I can get singles of, isn't the right color, nor would show behind a blue filter anyhow. Any suggestions on suppliers or sources of the leds I need? Joe
  10. Is this app still available? I can't goto the site at all. Joe
  11. Sorry for the delay in the reply, haven't been on in quite a while. To answer your question, I have 3 different microcontrollers, The Basic Stamp 2, Arduino Uno, and the Propeller Microcontrollers. So far planning on using the Propeller, so there's 32 I/O pins, but I am concidering using shift registers to run the LEDs. Digital Compass This link above is the compass I am trying to create. There's 4 larger leds arrays and the 4-10 segment bargraphs. I need the N/S n E/W LEDs to be able to light up for N, S, E, W, NE, NW, SE & SW, and the Bargrapgh LEDs Need to sequince up like in the link, but that's programming and so far not really relevent to this at the moment atleast. Joe
  12. I am trying to make this KITT's dash compass andi have the leds and using a microcontroller to power them but need help on how to wire them so i use the least amount of conponents possable. I thought of darlington transistor ic's but on the 4 10 led bargraph onesi think both anode n cathode will need darlington transistors. 4 1 for either common cathode or anode and 10 more for the other lead for make the patterns. I might be able to use 1 darlington transistor ic to make the yellow triangle leds work using just 4 i/o pins, but i think i need 14 for the red bargraps whats the best way to wire the bargraph leds up? Thanks. Joe
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