Tacx T2240 turbo trainer - blown resistor
- Thread starter DaveNicko
- Start date
Martaine2005
- May 12, 2015
- 5,280
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- May 12, 2015
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May be not missing, rather it wasn’t populated.
Do you see evidence of component removal? ie flux or solder residue?.
Quite common for many reasons, usually features etc not present on that units model number or revision.
Martin
Yeah the solder mask is as good as it would be should the components were never populated.
There is some flux residue around some items, few components are badly soldered on. Also all the above are on the other vortex I have which is working.
The caps and resistors I can find out by removing the ones from working vortex, but I thought I'll ask for schematics - rather not touch the working one if I can. That still leaves the:
- X2 - K413AD written on it on the working board
- D12 - looks like a 5W 48V Zenner diode, but I am not certain, Z5W 48 written faintly on it
- T8 - this is super ambiguous, it looks like 9D P
For some reason I can't upload the photos so a link to ImgBB
Hi All,
I also have a Tacx Vortex T2180 Turbo trainer, and like everyone else on this forum it stopped work without warning. On inspection the R64 (27ohm) resistor had blown.
1st try I replaced:
Looking closer at the board I found that R32 had gone open circuit. So I replaced R32 (0.22 ohm R220) and all the above components again and now it works!!
I couldn't find a supplier of surface mounted 0.22 ohm R220 resistors in quantities less than 5000. So I bought a standard (through hole) resistor and soldered it onto the board. Not the most elegant of repairs, but it works.
Good luck fixing
I also have a Tacx Vortex T2180 Turbo trainer, and like everyone else on this forum it stopped work without warning. On inspection the R64 (27ohm) resistor had blown.
1st try I replaced:
- R64 27ohm
- T5 Mosfet
- R57 3.3 ohm
Looking closer at the board I found that R32 had gone open circuit. So I replaced R32 (0.22 ohm R220) and all the above components again and now it works!!
I couldn't find a supplier of surface mounted 0.22 ohm R220 resistors in quantities less than 5000. So I bought a standard (through hole) resistor and soldered it onto the board. Not the most elegant of repairs, but it works.
Good luck fixing
Sorry to revive this old thread.
I've been trying to identify component D9 which I believe is a diode made by ST. It measures a short in both polarity even when removed. Can someone help in providing a link to this or suggest an alternative replacement?
I've been trying to identify component D9 which I believe is a diode made by ST. It measures a short in both polarity even when removed. Can someone help in providing a link to this or suggest an alternative replacement?
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
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Sir louisjvr . . . . .
If its OPEN . . . . .you have another serious component PROBLEM that caused it . . . .which you need to isolate, before power up.
Additionally . . . . . .
Sir Spikey . . .
You may have it now, but in referring to your posts of
Nov 14 2022 + Nov 12 2022
Post # 9 of
EE being the verifiable kicker, with the other bottom line numbers relating to date coding-shift-plant
73's de Edd . . . . .
If its OPEN . . . . .you have another serious component PROBLEM that caused it . . . .which you need to isolate, before power up.
Additionally . . . . . .
Sir Spikey . . .
You may have it now, but in referring to your posts of
Nov 14 2022 + Nov 12 2022
Post # 9 of
EE being the verifiable kicker, with the other bottom line numbers relating to date coding-shift-plant
73's de Edd . . . . .
Hello,
@73's de Edd , Sorry, but the given value is wrong.
R220 will be 0,22 Ohms.
See this page for more info:
kiloohm.info
Bertus
@73's de Edd , Sorry, but the given value is wrong.
R220 will be 0,22 Ohms.
See this page for more info:
Calculate 4 digit SMD resistor: R220
kiloohm.info
Bertus
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,730
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WHUT you talkin' 'bout Willis ? ? ? ? (
)
Sir Bertis . . . . .
That is WHY I went to the EXTREMES of specifying DECIMAL 22 ohms instead of a tiny period 22 ohms, since that small dot might be overlooked.
But the wee small tail of your EURO comma, being used, might show up a wee bit better / clarify.
But my existing text is still right, with its DECIMAL 22 ohms or .22 ohms.
Sir Bertis . . . . .
That is WHY I went to the EXTREMES of specifying DECIMAL 22 ohms instead of a tiny period 22 ohms, since that small dot might be overlooked.
But the wee small tail of your EURO comma, being used, might show up a wee bit better / clarify.
But my existing text is still right, with its DECIMAL 22 ohms or .22 ohms.
@iron22 thank you!Hi All,
I also have a Tacx Vortex T2180 Turbo trainer, and like everyone else on this forum it stopped work without warning. On inspection the R64 (27ohm) resistor had blown.
1st try I replaced:
I then powered it up and it blew R64 again!
- R64 27ohm
- T5 Mosfet
- R57 3.3 ohm
Looking closer at the board I found that R32 had gone open circuit. So I replaced R32 (0.22 ohm R220) and all the above components again and now it works!!
I couldn't find a supplier of surface mounted 0.22 ohm R220 resistors in quantities less than 5000. So I bought a standard (through hole) resistor and soldered it onto the board. Not the most elegant of repairs, but it works.
Good luck fixing
I had success doing the same on my T2180. I also replaced R32 (on my board was R330 so replaced like for like). Not sure if I needed to however as it turns out my multimeter isn't measuring resistance so it might have been fine!
All working.
Learned a lot about transformerless power supplies in the process too!
Hey guys, glad I found this thread. I've got 2 broken t2240 turbos. And I've sent them off to be looked at but the guy couldn't fix them.
He said that the fuse was changed and the resistor. The only thing that wasn't changed was the mosfet but that was still good on both
Can anyone help further? Or maybe even fix them for me if I sent it them because I've asked around spoke to turbo doctor and they want £50 - £70 a board. I got a new turbo off ebay for £40. So ideally would pay £40 for the 2 to be fixed? So I've got a spare as this seems a common thing.
Happy to send it to you.
paul
[email protected]
He said that the fuse was changed and the resistor. The only thing that wasn't changed was the mosfet but that was still good on both
Can anyone help further? Or maybe even fix them for me if I sent it them because I've asked around spoke to turbo doctor and they want £50 - £70 a board. I got a new turbo off ebay for £40. So ideally would pay £40 for the 2 to be fixed? So I've got a spare as this seems a common thing.
Happy to send it to you.
paul
[email protected]
Attachments
Maybe you have closer picture of T8 ? It looks in your first photo that it didnt burnt, should be symbols
Legend! I replaced the first three parts listed and my Tacx now works!! I got the components from Mouser and the 2W27OhmΩJ resistor is bigger than the original but even with my bodgy soldering I now have a live unit. Thank you all so much for your work on diagnosing and finding a fix
Highcarb Schwabe
- Dec 21, 2025
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- Dec 21, 2025
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Hi there, (hopefully future) T2240 user (Tacx Flow Smart, 2023 model) here!
Got it from a friend (has been working fine, he assures me), plugged it in... nothing happened.
Opened it, did a quick multimeter check and discovered that (at least) R64, R57, T5 and R32 are dead. Used the diode check function of the multimeter on T8 => roughly 0.68V between all pins. So T8 might be a Schottky transistor, and mine should be ok, right?
Did I miss anything? Should I replace anything else for good measure? What about T8? Thanks for any advice!
Using a mix of bismuth and leaded solder (very low melting point - very convenient!), I removed the four components and cleaned the pads afterwards.
R64 is 2W27ΩJ wirewound (according to this thread).
T5 is D14N60E
R57 is 3.3 Ohm (3W, according to this thread) and
R32 is .33 Ohm.
I will add package sizes and maybe mouser links soon.
I am posting this for documentation and future reference purposes.
Got it from a friend (has been working fine, he assures me), plugged it in... nothing happened.
Opened it, did a quick multimeter check and discovered that (at least) R64, R57, T5 and R32 are dead. Used the diode check function of the multimeter on T8 => roughly 0.68V between all pins. So T8 might be a Schottky transistor, and mine should be ok, right?
Did I miss anything? Should I replace anything else for good measure? What about T8? Thanks for any advice!
Using a mix of bismuth and leaded solder (very low melting point - very convenient!), I removed the four components and cleaned the pads afterwards.
R64 is 2W27ΩJ wirewound (according to this thread).
T5 is D14N60E
R57 is 3.3 Ohm (3W, according to this thread) and
R32 is .33 Ohm.
I will add package sizes and maybe mouser links soon.
I am posting this for documentation and future reference purposes.
Last edited:
Highcarb Schwabe
- Dec 21, 2025
- 2
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- 2
Update: I am planning to get the following parts (from Mouser). Package sizes see descriptions. Resistor power ratings should be overkill.
Mouser No | Mfr. No | Manufacturer | Customer No | Description |
708-RPCQ2512JT3R30 | RPCQ2512JT3R30 | SEI Stackpole | | Thick Film Resistors - SMD 3.3Ohms 2512 5% 4W 250V 400ppm Wrap Term AEC-Q200 |
78-SIHD14N60E-GE3 | SIHD14N60E-GE3 | Vishay | | MOSFETs 600V Vds 30V Vgs DPAK (TO-252) |
708-RNCL1206FTR330 | RNCL1206FTR330 | SEI Stackpole | | Thin Film Resistors - SMD 0.33Ohms 1206 1W 1% HiPow Anti-Surge AEC-Q200 |
571-SMW227RJT | SMW227RJT | TE Connectivity | | Wirewound Resistors - SMD SMW2 27R 5% |