The MC34071 or TLE2141 opamps operate near their maximum allowed supply voltage (44V) with a transformer that is 30VAC. A 48V transmormer voltage is much too high so the opamps are probably blown up. The transistors also might be blown up. Resistors and capacitors too?srecenvid said:hey. i have a problem. i built now 5A power supply, it was working great, until i did not try today it with 48v power transformer. now i have constant 35v voltage, also cant adjust it. anyone have idea what can be wrong?
If the output voltage is set low, the load is shorted or draws 10A and the current-setting pot is set to 10A then the output transistors (six of them) will dissipate a total of 390W. How will you cool them?srecenvid said:u know maybe if someone tried to do 10A version? or does it need other power transformer (toroidal transformer)?
A 24VAC transformer voltage is too low.srecenvid said:I have 500 and 1000VA transformer 24V in my small lab and i can try to do also 10A version.
I guess some people have liquid nitrogen.About heat and transistors i have really big cooler with water cooling, so that wont be problem
about driver transistor i was thinking maybe i can try and use 2 drive transistors and opams, but that will change scheme alot?
I was wonder if I insert the LM7809 into the circuit properly, I dont really understand words sometimes, and if i got it wrong I was wondering you could supply the correct schematic. I cant buy any other IC listed in fixes expect a MC34072DG and know it wrong IC but it all I got :/Received the following email from Ivan on 02/2010:
Ok. I bulid your project about a day ago. Mounted all the parts on the pcb and then concluded that there is some serious problems in this schematics. First, 2N3055 will overheat, so you have to connect two of them in parallel with emitter resistors 0.1ohm/5w. Second, maximal voltage between '+' and '-' of TL081 is 36VDC.If you connect them as it is shown in this circuit diagram that voltage will be about 45VDC, so they will burn down immediately. To fix this problem you have to reconnect all pins number 7 of U1, U2 and U3, emitter of Q3 and 'upper' end of R19 to out of an 7809 with 18V zener diode between 'common' pin and '-' of 3300uF cap, and input of 7809 connect to '+' of the same cap. Now, on pin number 7 and mentioned parts you'll have 27VDC, and total voltage will be 32.6VDC. Third, instead of using 3300uF, use 4700 or 6800uF/63VDC to reduce the ripple on higher currents (2-3A). The rest of the circuit is perfect. I like it cause it is so inexpensive and easy to make with those simple reconstructions i mentioned.
The meter is a voltmeter so it does not have mA ranges.peckcj said:..... the current meter is giving me a headache. I am using R7 as the shunt resistor, and since I built the 5 amp version, that resistor is valued at .27 ohm. When I connect the meter across R7, I get high reads...750-1200mV when I have a loading resistor drawing .5 amps. The meter is set at the 200mA range.
Yes....my mistake :-[audioguru said:The meter is a voltmeter so it does not have mA ranges.
Could you elaborate on this please? What is the difference between the output 0V and the PS 0V?It might need its power supply 0V connected to the power supply 0V, not the output 0V.