Um...Me123
- Aug 6, 2005
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??? I'm an almost complete beginner to this hobby and haven't made anything beyonde a circuit with switches, LEDs, and resistors but have been learning fast.
Hi there Um...Me123, welcome to this board 
You shold consider buying a digital VOM( or what the name for it is), a Volt/current/ohm-meter too
The LM317 Power Suply in the Projects section of this site is a good start for a PSU for a beginner! A link is here:
http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/power/010/index.html
Also check the conversation about this project, a link is provided in that section
//Staigen
You shold consider buying a digital VOM( or what the name for it is), a Volt/current/ohm-meter too
The LM317 Power Suply in the Projects section of this site is a good start for a PSU for a beginner!
A link is here:http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/power/010/index.html
Also check the conversation about this project, a link is provided in that section
//Staigen
Hi Me123,
The power supply which Staigen suggests is fine but I would recommend one with a current limit facility. For the hobbyist and “experimenter” the current limit is good to have and I don’t say this is only for beginners because there are many occasions where even a pro needs it!
I found this some time ago and it seem like an easy bench PSU to build:
L-200_Current_Limited_Power_Supply.pdf
The power supply which Staigen suggests is fine but I would recommend one with a current limit facility. For the hobbyist and “experimenter” the current limit is good to have and I don’t say this is only for beginners because there are many occasions where even a pro needs it!
I found this some time ago and it seem like an easy bench PSU to build:
L-200_Current_Limited_Power_Supply.pdf
Kevin Weddle
- Feb 23, 2004
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Something to be aware of is the current capability of some of the more popular regulators. You'll never be able to utilize those high current transistors without either using two in parallel or going with a higher current regulator.
Hi Kevin,
I don’t now what you mean? “be aware of is the current capability of some of the more popular regulators” and “You'll never be able to utilize those high current transistors”? What’s the first go to do with the second do you recon? ???
I don’t now what you mean? “be aware of is the current capability of some of the more popular regulators” and “You'll never be able to utilize those high current transistors”? What’s the first go to do with the second do you recon? ???
Um...Me123
- Aug 6, 2005
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I was lookiing at that second bench supply (the .pdf one) and I it looks pretty complicated (for me) but I think I can do it if I really try. I just notice one quick thing (and I would have WAY more questions but I can go to my brother for those)...What's a DPCO (toggle) switch??..I know all the others SPST, SPDT, DPST, and DPDT. Thanks for your help everyone!!
Any ideas on something really easy to help me understand how the 555 works? Make a LED blink or something.
Any ideas on something really easy to help me understand how the 555 works? Make a LED blink or something.
Um...Me123
- Aug 6, 2005
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I just posted in that discussion about the one supply so please check that out because always need lots of help ME---> ???.
Um...Me123
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does 4K7 = 47k? for the pot
Um...Me123
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Aren't we using an AC to DC transformer here?
This power supply isn't for AC current is it? (the output that is)
Well I think I get that part...second question:
I'm still learning about the properties of electricity but I was looking at www.allelectronics.com and they dont have a 28V trans.
Um...Me123
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I'm sorry that I can't put all my questions together and not keep posting all the time AND I'm sorry that I'm too dumb to be able to figure this out for my self.
enough apologies
I read somewhere in the discussion board something about the voltage of the bridge-it was something low like 30V (maybe it was amp?)
My question is can I use one that says 600V!?
enough apologies
I read somewhere in the discussion board something about the voltage of the bridge-it was something low like 30V (maybe it was amp?)
My question is can I use one that says 600V!?
Um...Me123
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More questions!!!!!!
I can't find a 4.7K pot--will a 5K be ok and if so it needs to be a linear taper?
Can the 2 capisitors (thats what they are aren't they?) both be radial ones?
I want to ad a LCD (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=PM-21) but where should I put it in the circuit so that I can set the voltage before hooking stuff up?
I can't find a 4.7K pot--will a 5K be ok and if so it needs to be a linear taper?
Can the 2 capisitors (thats what they are aren't they?) both be radial ones?
I want to ad a LCD (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=PM-21) but where should I put it in the circuit so that I can set the voltage before hooking stuff up?
audioguru2
- Apr 6, 2004
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1) Transformers all by themselves produce an AC output. An AC-DC adapter has a transformer, a rectifier and a filter capacitor inside to produce a DC output.
2) Use a rectifier bridge with ratings more than needed. More than 30V, more than 2A.
3) The LM317LZ is a tiny thing rated for 100mA. It can't be heatsinked. Use the LM317T with a big heatsink.
4) A 5K pot is better than a 4.7k pot in this circuit. If a 4.7k pot is at the limit of its 20% tolerance and also for the 240 ohm resistor, then the project's max output voltage would be only 19.9V. With a 5K pot at its tolerance limit and also for the 240 ohm resistor then the project's max output voltage would be 21.1V. At the other extremes of tolerance, the max output voltage with a 5K pot is 34.1V. You can adjust the value for the 240 ohm resistor to compensate for the wide tolerance of the pot. The actual output voltage of the LM317 can't exceed about 2.5V less than its input voltage.
5) Use a linear pot and the output voltage will be half when the pot setting is half. If you use an audio-taper pot then the output voltage will be very low with the pot set halfway.
6) The two bars are a symbol for a capisitor (usually called a capacitor). 200n is its value as 200 billionths of a Farad, which is also written as 0.2uF.
7) If you try to power a meter module from the same supply that it is measuring, it might smoke or blow-up! The little 9V battery in my DVM lasts about 4 years when it is used every day. It turns itself off after 5 minutes to extend the battery's life. ;D
2) Use a rectifier bridge with ratings more than needed. More than 30V, more than 2A.
3) The LM317LZ is a tiny thing rated for 100mA. It can't be heatsinked. Use the LM317T with a big heatsink.
4) A 5K pot is better than a 4.7k pot in this circuit. If a 4.7k pot is at the limit of its 20% tolerance and also for the 240 ohm resistor, then the project's max output voltage would be only 19.9V. With a 5K pot at its tolerance limit and also for the 240 ohm resistor then the project's max output voltage would be 21.1V. At the other extremes of tolerance, the max output voltage with a 5K pot is 34.1V. You can adjust the value for the 240 ohm resistor to compensate for the wide tolerance of the pot. The actual output voltage of the LM317 can't exceed about 2.5V less than its input voltage.
5) Use a linear pot and the output voltage will be half when the pot setting is half. If you use an audio-taper pot then the output voltage will be very low with the pot set halfway.
6) The two bars are a symbol for a capisitor (usually called a capacitor). 200n is its value as 200 billionths of a Farad, which is also written as 0.2uF.
7) If you try to power a meter module from the same supply that it is measuring, it might smoke or blow-up! The little 9V battery in my DVM lasts about 4 years when it is used every day. It turns itself off after 5 minutes to extend the battery's life. ;D
Hi there again Um...Me123, sorry i didn't had time to reply your questions until now
No, as Audioguru say, the transformer itself output AC, it is then rectified in the rectifier bridge and smoothed with the 2200 microfarad electrolytic condenser!
The output from this PSU is DC. The AC from the transformer is rectified by the rectifier bridge and becomes DC after that.
Um...Me123
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Thanks for your responses guys I'm just turing 16 so your a great help for me!
You said the LCD would jump all over...would that just be the tenths (hundreths)? because that wouldn't bother me that much.
You said the LCD would jump all over...would that just be the tenths (hundreths)? because that wouldn't bother me that much.
audioguru2
- Apr 6, 2004
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Hi Um...Me,
Try the LM317 project with your little heatsink to learn about Volts times Amps. Set it to about 5V output with about a 1A load. When the LM317 trys to dissipate about 26 Watts then it will simply shut-down when it gets too hot. Then try blowing your fan on the little heatsink to see how much longer it can operate before getting too hot.
Wait a minute! The LM317 in that fairly high supply voltage circuit might not be able to supply 1A with an output voltage below about 11V. With a voltage between its input and output of more than only 15V, it reduces its max output current to protect itself. They are all a little different so maybe you have a strong LM317 that can provide 1A at 5V.
If your LM317 is weak then it cannot supply 1A in that circuit if the output voltage is below about 11V so try a 1A load with it set to 12V. ;D
Try the LM317 project with your little heatsink to learn about Volts times Amps. Set it to about 5V output with about a 1A load. When the LM317 trys to dissipate about 26 Watts then it will simply shut-down when it gets too hot. Then try blowing your fan on the little heatsink to see how much longer it can operate before getting too hot.
Wait a minute! The LM317 in that fairly high supply voltage circuit might not be able to supply 1A with an output voltage below about 11V. With a voltage between its input and output of more than only 15V, it reduces its max output current to protect itself. They are all a little different so maybe you have a strong LM317 that can provide 1A at 5V.
If your LM317 is weak then it cannot supply 1A in that circuit if the output voltage is below about 11V so try a 1A load with it set to 12V. ;D
Um...Me123
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???HUH? ??? How does that answer any of my questions? Are you saying the LM317T won't work? Or that heatsink is too small.
By the way I don't have any of the parts for this yet. That's why I'm asking the questions now so I don't order the wrong stuff.
By the way I don't have any of the parts for this yet. That's why I'm asking the questions now so I don't order the wrong stuff.
Hi Um...Me123
Well, I'm 60 years old in a couple of months, and have been playing with electronics in about 53 years ;D
Even the leftmost digit will flicker when output is set at just above 10 Volts! Also, this module dont show moore than 19.99 or 19.999 Volts, above that it will show - - - or - - - -
audioguru2
- Apr 6, 2004
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Hi Um...Me,
My LM317 power supply uses a little heatsink like yours, supplies up to 1A from 1.25V to 9V perfectly, gets pretty hot but doesn't shut-down, and is powered by a 12VDC/1A wall-wart adapter.
Maybe you should use a 20V center-tapped transformer (10V-0V-10V). You can switch the transformer's wires for 10VAC input to the rectifier bridge for low voltage output (up to 9VDC) from the project, and to 20VAC for high voltage output (up to 23VDC) from the project. Then the heating of the LM317 will be halved. ;D
My LM317 power supply uses a little heatsink like yours, supplies up to 1A from 1.25V to 9V perfectly, gets pretty hot but doesn't shut-down, and is powered by a 12VDC/1A wall-wart adapter.
Maybe you should use a 20V center-tapped transformer (10V-0V-10V). You can switch the transformer's wires for 10VAC input to the rectifier bridge for low voltage output (up to 9VDC) from the project, and to 20VAC for high voltage output (up to 23VDC) from the project. Then the heating of the LM317 will be halved. ;D
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