Help diagnosing Trinitron KV-32FV27

[Coolsuggies]

prior Errata . . . my post
I believe that you have now shorted the R and G video drives together !
I believe that you have now shorted the R and BLUE video drives together !
Absolute Factoid . . .
Women spend more time wondering what men are thinking about them . . . . . than men totally spend . . . . . . . thinking!

Should I even try putting things back to where they were when (as far as I can tell) I've disconnected red and green altogether? Thanks again for your help!

 

[73's de Edd]

Lets just skip direct to the worst situation . . . . . that there is short from RED CRT Cathode to filament or having some lesser degree of resistive leakage between the two.
To do this, initially confirm that there is no round circular clamp around the CRT neck . . . that requires its circular compression bands screw being initially loosened. ***
Refer to this example . . . . https://s.ecrater.com/stores/347510/547ad70657687_347510b.jpg ***
I don't think that this particular Sony will be using one.
Easily and gradually unplug the boards socket from the kine proper.
The kine driver board has all of the markings of RK-BK-GK on connections as well as the two Hester 1 and 2 connections.
(Revealing photo . . . . . . on post 15.)
You will be wanting to ohm between either H1-2 connecttion and the RK pins . . . . . and run thru lowest to highest ohms ranges . . . . . unless auto ranging.
Just for a RELATIVE comparison, run thru the Fil to B and G Kathodes also.
Thaaaaasssssit . . .

Curiosity query ? is this, and has this been your own unit from day 1 out of the box newness . . . . . . . . or is it a gifted to you non working unit . . . or a cheap pig in a poke / GOODWILL / THRIFT STORE, find or even being . . . .shudder -shudder ! . . . . . a street curbside find ?

 

[Coolsuggies]

Lets just skip direct to the worst situation . . . . . that there is short from RED CRT Cathode to filament or having some lesser degree of resistive leakage between the two.
To do this, initially confirm that there is no round circular clamp around the CRT neck . . . that requires its circular compression bands screw being initially loosened. ***
Refer to this example . . . . https://s.ecrater.com/stores/347510/547ad70657687_347510b.jpg ***
I don't think that this particular Sony will be using one.
Easily and gradually unplug the boards socket from the kine proper.
The kine driver board has all of the markings of RK-BK-GK on connections as well as the two Hester 1 and 2 connections.
(Revealing photo . . . . . . on post 15.)
You will be wanting to ohm between either H1-2 connecttion and the RK pins . . . . . and run thru lowest to highest ohms ranges . . . . . unless auto ranging.
Just for a RELATIVE comparison, run thru the Fil to B and G Kathodes also.
Thaaaaasssssit . . .

Curiosity query ? is this, and has this been your own unit from day 1 out of the box newness . . . . . . . . or is it a gifted to you non working unit . . . or a cheap pig in a poke / GOODWILL / THRIFT STORE, find or even being . . . .shudder -shudder ! . . . . . a street curbside find ?

Just so I understand correctly....

Take the neck board off and test the ohm between the individual pins of the tube? While on or off? Pictures attached cause why not.

Also, to satisfy your curiosity.

tl;dr: got the tv for $40 from old lady on Craig's list.

The longer story would be I have always had a CRT TV for my retro game collection that I've had my whole life. The last TV burned out and I tried to find another one that I liked. I'm picky and I'm always looking for a big top of the line TV. In one day I found 2 TV's, one was working and is a 27" Panasonic that's pretty nice honestly. The Sony was what I considered to be the better and what I wanted to use more. The Craig's list ad said that the TV just needed a new fuse (so somebody that the lady knew that worked on TV's told her) I thought that it would be great if that's all that was wrong, but I knew it wasn't going to be that easy. It was worth my time to try see if it works, fix it, and learn something at the same time.

 

[73's de Edd]

Take the neck board off and test the ohm(mage) between the individual pins of the tube? While on or off? Pictures attached cause why not.
In doing an ohms test . . . . . definitely, no AC power connected.
Since our test points will now be to the unplugged / now naked . . . kine pins.
Use the markings already being silk screened on the kine driver circuit . . . . to transfer to and properly identify those same pins on the kine proper.
Initially direct your main interest to the kine KR and ohm to either of the heater pins for ANY leakage and then just do a confirmation on both the B and G cathodes to heater.
The Craig's list ad said that the TV just needed a new fuse (so somebody that the lady knew that worked on TV's told her)
LMFuAO ! ! !
If this is being the Sony series that I am thinking about (my neighbors).
AND also considering that you have had need to lift BOTH the Punysonic and the Sony, that incurred total expense $40 expense would amount to about a 50 cent per pound weight of the extra special glass being used in the Sony's kine glass envelope.
In consideration of the uber definition of this Sony series, another like choice would have been the final Mitsubishi CRT generation . . . that, in comparison, your Punysonic is just being an "also ran"

 

[Coolsuggies]

I agree that a Mitsubishi would be best.

I believe I did the test correctly.
H1 -> KR = No Beep
H1 -> KG = No Beep
H1 -> KB = No Beep

H2 -> KR = No Beep
H2 -> KG = No Beep
H2 -> KB = No Beep

 

[Coolsuggies]

Take the neck board off and test the ohm(mage) between the individual pins of the tube? While on or off? Pictures attached cause why not.
In doing an ohms test . . . . . definitely, no AC power connected.
Since our test points will now be to the unplugged / now naked . . . kine pins.
Use the markings already being silk screened on the kine driver circuit . . . . to transfer to and properly identify those same pins on the kine proper.
Initially direct your main interest to the kine KR and ohm to either of the heater pins for ANY leakage and then just do a confirmation on both the B and G cathodes to heater.
The Craig's list ad said that the TV just needed a new fuse (so somebody that the lady knew that worked on TV's told her)
LMFuAO ! ! !
If this is being the Sony series that I am thinking about (my neighbors).
AND also considering that you have had need to lift BOTH the Punysonic and the Sony, that incurred total expense $40 expense would amount to about a 50 cent per pound weight of the extra special glass being used in the Sony's kine glass envelope.
In consideration of the uber definition of this Sony series, another like choice would have been the final Mitsubishi CRT generation . . . that, in comparison, your Punysonic is just being an "also ran"

I don't know if my last post was what you were looking for, but when my meter gives anything other than zero it beeps. I thought for some reason that was universal to meters. So basically, as far as I can tell I got nothing on any of the spots you asked me to check.

 

[Delta Prime]

I thought for some reason that was universal to meters. So basically, as far as I can tell I got nothing on any of the spots you asked me to check

This is only my opinion but it's coming from the heart.
It is intrinsic for all technical sites like these when helping people that come from a non-technical background, I find there’s a lot of lingo and unwritten rules people just don’t know about. The solution shouldn’t be to "shunt"(pun intended for those in the know!) them but help them along in their journey. It has been my brief experience on sites like these that I wish I could crawl into the internet and appear by someone's side to provide guidance, it is frustrating.
When I am trying to help and fail...I feel as though I have not succeeded because there is not a darn thing I can or could do about it! Please take that into consideration. Thank you.

 

[73's de Edd]

Your choice of the "continuity /Beep " mode of your metering is not being definitive enough for our analytical needs.
You need to go to its ohms function and re-test, with it then being in that mode. Scaling between different ranges . . .unless your meter is auto ranging.
We may actually be up in the megohms in any leakage of that RED cathode to heater leakage test.
Take particular note in comparison of the RED to the BLUE and GREEN . . .like tests.

 

[73's de Edd]

I never received the DEFINITIVE answer on using OHMS function on your meter, instead of the "shotgun" interpretation that is being provided by using its continuity function. ( 1 ohm beeps . . . . . . .BUT . . . . . .500 ohms also beeps ! )
BUT . . . . . lets go back to the orderly procedure you followed so far with the swapping of the RED drive signal with either its companion BLUE or GREEN one . . . . . to see if we end up with a screen bleeding with that other color instead of the RED, as it currently is.
You seem to have accomplished that at three different points that would be crossroads in that signal path.
Now only the kine being suspect . . . . . . however I hope not . . . . as that would be total finality.
Lets just hope that last 'lil 'ole lady did not overly over abuse that set (on at 7.00AM-off at Mid nite- every day), to the point where it had the kines 'friggin' wheels totally worn down to the ground up rims !
Hopefully not, since your displayed RED raster still shows distinct focus lines. Otherwise a weak kine/tube would not be in focus that sharp and show focus shifting " blooming" with high brightness level advancement.
Lets now do some back stepping and refer to your initial . . .

If I raise the brightness on the FBT, it does get brighter and it does go dimmer than what it is if I want it to.

You touched what only the knowledgeable should touch . . . . . unless you marked its initial position . . . . or else, read pots center wiper to one sides terminal resistance while the set was un powered . . . . . thus, your being able to reset it exactly to found position later on.

NOW . . . .if you left that FBT . . . . .Grid 2 pot set up higher (in the CW direction), than it is supposed to be, the DOMINANT strength kine gun will display, and override.
Sooooooo, now this actually may be your situation.

Test procedure . . . . . .

Initially you get a raster on the screen and use the sets menu driven brightness adjustment to set it up to its max brightness.
Decrease the FBT's G2 pots . . . .CCW . . . direction to just black out the present RED raster dominance to a black screen..
Go back to menu and decrease brightness to minimum. ( watching the bars on the on screen bar graph, since you have a blacked out screen)
Advance the FBT's G2 pot CW to duplicate that previous brightness level .
Hook up the set to use some test composite video/vcr/video disc player or game to evaluate final performance.

73's de Edd . . . . .