oldgrandpainmi

Do a Goggle: VHS to CD-R You will get too much info about video capture equiptment and software. oldgrandpainmi

Hey Guy's, Can I add my 2 cents? Andodizing and painting are just one aspect. Here is a thought: If color is not a major concern, why not get some gun bluing or browning for steel parts, and/or, gun aluminum bluing for aluminum? I had to check this out, but I threw my meter across the barrel of the rifle I just did and it conducted! Depending on the amount of bluing you want, you can get a dark blue to almost black, just by repeating applications. Won't come off due to heat. My 8mm Mauser gets hotter after 12 fast shots than any of my heatsinks. The cost for bluing is $4.00 a bottle. oldgrandpainmi

I have been a member just a short time at this forum. I run across many different ideas, schematics, opinions, etc., about 12vdc/110-220vac, xxxWatt inverters. Enough to create its own thread. So many, I have to ask: Has anyone compiled or analyzed all of the different info on inverter projects submitted, to come to a conclusion as to the best one based on cost, ease of construction, parts availability, etc., and come up with the best plans on this forum?? I am considering building an inverter for camping and emergency home and ham radio purposes. After the big blackout a few years ago, I considered getting a generator, but with the cost of gas, I am considering other options. Besides, durring that blackout, most stations had not power to pump gas. Those who did, gouged!!! Which one is best? Can a link to the schematics be posted for me to find??? oldgrandpainmi

Sounds like another attempt at Cold Fusion.

I know the thread is a year old, but these sensors are also used to measure muzzle pressures in weapons. Reloaders and manufacturers are the biggest users. oldgrandpainmi

2 quick things- A great source of d-Flip flops- DigiKey. Order their free catalog on cd or paperback (almost 2"thick). They also have most or all of your laser diode needs. Also, I use ScreenHunter to screen capture. It is free, saves everything as a .bmp file (which you can save as something else) and works great! oldgrandpainmi

Boy oh boy, it been a while. Remind me, please. My father and I developed a smaller inverter years ago, based on 6 PLL's, to control motor speed in a telescope tracking system. The voltage I believe, was 110ac, but we changed the freq to adj speed. We had to smooth the square wave outputs also. I believe we used NPO caps. It appeared to be a lot closer to sine that square, but with a faster rise/fall time than AC. If the output is square, couldn't NPO's be used in this application, also? oldgrandpainmi

Tech_101, Depending on the number of holes to drill, I've used High Speed Steel bits for years. Carbide may last longer, but can cost 400-600% more than HSS. I get my numbered bits at a local "You-Do-It" center for a buck or so each. (up to #70) Since you are drilling thru fiberglass with copper plate, you don't really need the full speed of a Dremmel. I use a variable speed Dremmel at 1/3-1/2 speed. Even with fiberglass, speed causes heat, which dulls the bit faster. The key is, like all types of drill bits in a press, is to prevent the bit from wandering and bending. I have actually broken the bits in half to minimumize their length to about 1/4" from the chuck. This cuts down on wandering and flexing the bits as you drop down on bit diameter, and cuts a cleaner hole. Food for thought. oldgrandpainmi

Rhonn' I have a plastics supplier near me that sells PVC and ABS plate plastic. I have never asked if they deal in mail order, but you could ask. They will also take almost any design you have and manufacture what you want. Soltis Plastics, White Lake, MI, PH: 248-698-1440 I have used the plaste pvc in the past for ham radio antennas and insulators and have gotten thickness's up to 3/4" for plate and 2"x2" for square rod! Good buch there! Will be happy to answer any questions you may have! Oldgrandpainmi

Dazza, Having gone thru this receiently, I want to pass this on. If you are considering constructing a part with .001" tolerances, or better, there are a couple machinist forums out there that have CRC lathe operators that will do work on the side, at reasonable prices. I was considering building a metal lathe for some rifle barrel work. I designed a new type of muzzle brake I wanted to attach to a 1903, 8mm Mauser. I found a local guy thru a forum who cut the barrel down from 29" to 24", threaded the barrel end, and turned the brake blank's, all for less than $100. The tolerances were .001, and if I wanted to pay for them, I could have had them down to .0005". Doing a bunch of parts may warrant a lathe, but if only a few parts are needed, you can save money haveing them done professionally. Just a thought! Oldgrandpainmi

Ante, I've only owned 1 pin and 1 video. The pin was Playball and the Video was Gyrus. The pin was a one player game with relay contact controls, numbered wheel scoring and chimes. Put both on my porch and the neighborhood kids played the H*** out of them. In one summer, I made the money I paid for them, the replacement parts, and my time, with a little profit. Regret selling them now. The old antage holds true. If you work with them all day long, you really don't want to see them when you get home. Oldgrandpainmi

Hello all, YEP, you are close when you speak of pinball machines! I've been repairing them for 18+ years now. The idea DOES look like a specific layout in a pinball. This is what I thought of also when I read this artical!! Oldgrandpainmi (Pinball Doctor on eBay)

Hello All, Just wanted to put my two cents in on this subject. I didn't read all of the replys on this tank, so I hope I don't repeat too much! I built this exact tank (12"x12"x1") 15 years ago with much success. I used it with Photo Etching and standard copper etching with standard copper etchant. The only problem is rub off transfers will come off if the heat is too high and bubbles are excessive. Too low on eather one will cause excessive etching time. I etched 25-50 hobby pcb's with it before I gave it away. The artical states that MEK for the glue! YES!!! but remember to scrape the cut edges of the plexi you plan to glue with a utility knife blade before gluing. The edges must be as smooth and as close to clear as possibible before applying glue. For those who don't know, the glue is as thin as water. You have to apply the glue to both edges and let it soften the plexi before mating. Afterword, the soft glue seems to melt together, giving the appearence of a single piece of plastic. Mine developed a small leak, so I used a sealant made for aquariums. I didn't read the articals very well, but don't forget to drill as many holes in the board holder as possibible. Too few holes will negate the bubbler on the bottom. Just Food For Thought! OGPIM

gogo, For you, and anyone else who reads this topic, I got a reply from Radio Shack in TX, and a guy named Wade who replied back, said that the rub off transfers that Radio Shack carried are now discontinued and no longer available over the counter, nor available by special order. If you want them and find them at any Shack, pick them up, as when they are gone, they are gone!! OGPIM

Hello all, I am looking for anyone who has information on how to build a 6vac, 250-500mA output transformer. I am also looking for a Amidon form # to build it on. Appreciate working designs. Must be on form of no bigger than 1" square. Anyone have any ideas and/or web address where I can find such a beast??? (Amidon does not have info for this project. Got their reply today!) Oldgrandpainmi

gogo, Thanks! I'll check into this avenue. I'm having trouble getting into the site where the doughnut transfer's are, but the DIP/SIMM transfer page works! I've ordered their cataloge, so maybe I'll find out more that way! I believe that the last time I was in Radio Shack, I was told that they were discontinued and couldn't be ordered, but will re-check tomorrow. OGPIM

Hello all, I am a newbie here to this forum.