Dazza

This furnace is for melting aluminium, I was just about ready to start construction, useing gas LPG/propane as the fuel, then I came across a few backyard hobbyist foundrys, that use electric powered furnaces. So now I think an electric furnace is the way to go, but I need some help please :). This is what I have for the elements Nichrome 80, 28 Gauge B&S 13.4R/per meter, Max 1200,C I want to use two heating elements, each elements will be 2 m long, which will be coiled and stretched out to the length I need. 2 meters of resistance wire = 26.8R 240VAC 9A 2160W, so 2 elements will be needing 18A 4320W I need a way to control the power, does anyone have suitable schematics for this? Also how do I configure the two elements so they both are running at 2160W. Any help is appreciated :).

Hi Ante, Yes that's right, this is for warming up your hands on those cold winter mornings ;D ;D ;D. The right wattage resistor should handle the heat for this short period of time? Maybe two 10 watt resistors for each glow plug, then mount them to a basic heat sink, a small sheet of aluminium plate.

Is anyone having this problem? I have experienced problems before, with mail taking a couple of days to come through at times, probably due to problems with my Internet provider but I don't think this is the problem, I am receiving all my other usual e-mail.

Hi Ante, Beer cans are not a very good choice, about 70 percent is waste slag which is skimmed off the top of the molten metal. Cylinder heads are good, because you know that they are the type of aluminium that is use for casting, but the biggest problem is breaking them up into small pieces that will fit into the crucible.

Nice work Alun :), Do you have the PCB pattern that you can post. I have no problems making a PCB from scratch, I just think it would be a great little project for a beginner 8).

Hi, Why not use a resistor on each glow plug to drop the voltage, then use a timer circuit to supply power to the glow plugs via relays, you only need around 5 to 10 seconds depending on your climate. The resistor will only need to withstand the current being drawn through them for that short period of time. Someone else will have to provide the answer for the resistors values and wattage needed, (1) pushbutton to start timer, LED comes on. (2) LED turns off start engine. (3) time to get back to work. ;D ;D

Hi Alum, Thanks for the explanation :), and the safety warning very interesting. I met a guy up north recently when I was on holidays, he was working on a project that involved using microwaves to super heat water to drive a combustion engine. He tried to explain to me how he produced the microwave energy, Well most of what he said went straight over the top of my head :P, I do remember he said that he used (phase lock loop) to achieve the high frequency. I was very surprised when he told me he used commonly available components.

Hi Ante, Thanks Ante, yes that's the same guy with the foundry, the link I posted above ;). I have about 90 percent of the materials needed for the foundry. The ingredients needed for the refractory were very hard to find in my area. The heat will be on soon ;D, this project is bringing back bad memories, of working in the middle of summer in a foundry, hot hot hot :(.

Hi hyaku_ You do realize that you have a NPN(Q1) and PNP(Q2) transistors?. C1 is an electrolytic capacitor polarised,(+ and -). D1 and your LED are also polarised. If you have connected one of your transistors incorrectly it may be damaged. More than likely you have made a connection error ;). I hope this helps :).

Hi I agree theoretically it's not possible. Although what I believe is, there are other forces phenomenons that we do not understand or realize exist. Thinking outside the box, and putting aside what we have been told is fact, has proven fact to be fiction in man's history many times ;D, I agree you should try the cap, if it doesn't work you should then ask yourself why :). It has also been said, that efficiently producing hydrogen from water is not possible, well we shall see 8). Good luck, don't give up.

Hi Ante, mixos, I think I will just start building it to the scale that I want, then worry about the Hp that I'll need later 8). Molten aluminium will bounce off of your skin it wont stick, but it is no fun when it goes into your boot, believe me I no :o. Thanks for those plans mixos very very useful :).

Hi Ante :), Well I decided to go a similar path to this guy(http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/index.html) I have worked in a foundry and I pretty much no the whole process, so it makes sense to me to make a small foundry, then go on to make the equipment that l will need . A series inventor need some good equipment to get serious ;). I have discovered a SmartDrive washing machine, I think it's electric motor would be ideal to use for a lathe. It's a 3-phase motor with a 42 pole stator and 36 magnets. Hopefully I can pick one up for the right price somewhere, I'm not sure on the Hp of these motors and I'm not sure on the Hp that I will need, as I have decided to make a decent size lathe :).

Hi, Alum, Ante Thanks for the info and comments Alum :), yes of course sonar ::). Yes salt does increase the hydrogen production, but using such additives only creates other problems in my project, which is the reason why I'm trying to find an alternative solution, if I can at least find a way to reduce the amount of additive needed , I think it would be worth trying. Yes I think using a VCO chip and a power amplifier module would be a good place to start, for an amateur like me :). Does anyone know of a suitable VCO chip. This is an interesting experiment to try, boil a cup of water in a microwave, then try to boil it again,it wont boil ???. It's a strange thing which I haven't tried to find out why yet. VARIAC Is this a variable voltage transformer? Sorry for the late reply, I have been very busy lately :P.

Hi, Why not just use a lead acid car battery, then when you are finished use a standard car battery charger to recharge it. If you already have a battery charger, it may prove to be a cheaper alternative. The only downside is how long the battery will last before needing to be recharged. This is the method that I have chosen, because I do not have to worry about Mains power/extension leads. I am curious on what you are trying to do. Are you wanting to clean your injectors. Or are you wanting to test them for physical wear. Hi ante, Don't feel old ante, you know, you're only as old as the woman you feel. ;D ;D ;D

Hi Alum,EnigmaOne, I'm wanting to experiment with microwaves and the resonating affect upon water molecules, to try to increase the production of hydrogen in conjunction with electrolysis. I don't need a great amount of microwave energy for experimenting. I am new to Electronics and the simplest way for me to produce microwave energy was by using a magnetron, which I am a little reluctant to use because of the great amount of microwave energy produced that I do not need for experimenting with. I would greatly appreciate some guidance/examples on ways of producing microwave energy. I'm afraid the methods that use suggested, is a bit over my head I need some examples to learn/understand from :). Also it would be very useful to be able to vary the frequency for experimenting, that was another downside of using a magnetron, although I've got no idea how I can accurately measure the frequency, I don't have much in the way of test equipment :(. The link below is basically where I started with this project. http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?board=28;action=display;threadid=1321 Thank you for your reply.

Hi Siddharth, I think that would be a very interesting project to take on :D, although I think it would be difficult to make an electronic compass, that could improve on the simplicity and reliability of a mechanical compass. I know which one I would choose, if I was heading into the outback ;). Good luck, I hope you are planning on posting your progress here 8).

Thanks for your reply Enigmaone :), I was hoping, but didn't think it would be as simple as scaling down a magnetron :(. Going by what you have said, I think it would be a task far greater than I could hope to achieve. Maybe it would be a better option, to scale up my project to suit a standard microwave magnetron, for experimentation.

Well my first thoughts were, what a monstrosity :o. But then I realised it appears that every component there has a function, I can't help to be impressed 8). Although I do feel a kookaburra would have been a better component choice, its performance is far more superior then a Peacock, for a laugh ;D ;D ;D.

Hi audioguru, You would have a similar problem as I'm having but opposite. It's that hot you have to drink your beer really fast, before it evaporates from the heat ;D. I guess you would have to drink yours really fast before it freezes ;D. Here's another. Dashing through the snow, in a one horse open sleigh. Running fast through the sand, before I burn my feet. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Hi steven, I have heard of that dam wall, I have been meaning to look it up on the net. Why not glue a marble in the whole, just vandalis an old paint tin, they usually have a marble in them :). I shall be absent for a couple of weeks now, I'm heading up north for Christmas, I guess it's just not hot enough here :P. I'll be looking forward to hearing from you all, in the new year, take it easy ;) 8).

Hi audioguru, It is an interesting thing wavelength, I'm trying to understand how you could explain, voice wavelength when using the old-fashioned tin can and string intercom. Maybe an resonating affect, but what of the wavelength?. Maybe it is that the energy is transformed from one state to another and then back again.

steven or is it gteven ;D ;D, Just use light gauge wire, a coat hanger ;). Bend one end to an L-shape then secure it to the dish wall with sticky tape, then bend it across to the other side and do the same, I would say you would need three legs. I'm sure you get the idea. Once you're happy with the position of the mic, you can remove the tape and permanently glue it.

Thanks Yevgeni P :), very interesting, good stuff :D.

I nearly forgot to mention, you can increase the sensitivity by placing a small dish maybe from a torch, or maybe a (flashlight) hard to come by in Australia though ::) ;D, and place it just above the mic facing inwards. You should view the construction of your dish, the same as if you were constructing a high-performance antenna. After all this is basically what it is 8).

Steven, have you considered The positioning of the mic in the dish, it can make an enormous difference 8). To find the focal point, position the dish towards the sun and use a thermometer to find the hottest spot, which of course is the focal point, be careful because you can easily destroy your thermometer :o, if you don't have a thermometer just use your finger, when you say ouch you found it ;D. Than place your mic just above this point facing in towards the dish, this you probably already know ;).

[move]Merry Christmas to all[/move]