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HarryA last won the day on September 22

HarryA had the most liked content!

About HarryA

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday June 23

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    USA, Pennsylvania, Susquehanna County, Forest Lake Township
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    Canoeing, woodworking, electronics, and gardening.

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  1. I see little or no difference using Firefox, Opera, or Edge. I am thinking that it is my monitor. Watching to many "Extra History" videos on YouTube.com is wearing out the pixels 📺 Thanks for trying.
  2. The font: "The font:" above is much lighter than the uploaded example. I could not see how to continue with the next image so I am here. I am using an HP x20LED; I can not get to the model number. Lets see what others say. For login one does not see the "Display Name" nor the "password" text. Perhaps removing the dead space above it would help?
  3. Is it me or is the forum running out of toner? The font seems to be getting lighter over time. I can not adjust the browser to improve it. Also at login there is no physical response; the login area is down below the screen so one thinks nothing happened. Just trying to be helpful 😀
  4. Although it is for the Arduino there is a library plus others here that maybe helpful for you to look over: https://github.com/deskwizard/TDA7418_arduino scroll down to see the implemented functions.
  5. HarryA


    What are you connecting the PCF8575 to? You most likely need to include some type of library.
  6. You can find some information on the sleeve balum that maybe helpful here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dipole_antenna
  7. I would think you need a power supply that is USB C compatible and supplies 15 volts like this one perhaps: https://www.amazon.com/ZMI-zPower-Turbo-Power-Adapter/dp/B07D64QLQ1/ref=sxin_10?ascsubtag=amzn1.osa.36fe220c-4964-4c9f-ae33-99b6c0c7c1df.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&creativeASIN=B07D64QLQ1&crid=22R39DEACHL6V&cv_ct_cx=usb+c+wall+charger&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osa.36fe220c-4964-4c9f-ae33-99b6c0c7c1df.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-single-source-gl-ranking&dchild=1&keywords=usb+c+wall+charger&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B07D64QLQ1&pd_rd_r=469feb9
  8. I would disconnect one end of R35 and see if that fixes the problem or just replace it. It maybe breaking down under the higher voltage?
  9. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/119606/Panasonic-Sc-Dm3.html#manual
  10. If you compare your board with the one on Ebay that one looks like the better board. You may gain some insight by comparing the P6? on your board with the three in the schematic and see if it connects the same as one of them. This is the schematic of the Viber12a in a battery charger.
  11. There are used Cherokee International power supplies on ebay.com if that is any help.
  12. Yes, you are not the only one with that problem! See the circuit here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-DSW-PRO-500-Subwoofer-Amp-Plate-Not-Working-For-Parts-Repair/184441091699?hash=item2af18bb673:g:2~QAAOSwEkxfWY2A I was thinking you could get the correct parts from that one but no such good luck.
  13. The eight leaded DIP is a " Low power offline switched-mode power supply primary switcher" see: file:///C:/Users/harry/AppData/Local/Temp/viper12a-e.pdf The larger diode P6? maybe a protection diode to protect from over-voltage. The two smaller diodes most likely are rectifiers used as part of the power supply. The question is what caused the fault that damaged the components. You need to investigate that before replacing the components else they may just blowout again. Try drawing out that part of the circuit to get insight into the circuit.
  14. see: https://www.nteinc.com/semiconductors/ComplPr.php They list matched complementary pairs that maybe helpful like the NTE128/NTE129 at 80 volts and 1 ampere. And many others as well.
  15. There is an article "Design Project2 - BCD Calculator" that maybe helpful. http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~ece352/fall02/old_project/p2.pdf
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